HRnB

I haven't started checking it out much yet, so let's make this a group collaboration.

First sign: I was driving it yesterday and it started idling rough at a stop light. As I accelerated, it died. It wouldn't start.

First inspection: After AAA towed it to my house, I cranked it over and it started. Just real rough then died. Wouldn't start again.
I looked under the hood and first checked vacuum lines. I found one that was cracked from the CAI to the valve cover. (case vent line)
These cars are sensitive to vacuum leaks.

First repair attempt: I got a new vac hose and replaced the cracked one. The car started right up at normal idle. After a couple minutes I accelerated and it died. Would not start again.

Time to go to the next step: I'm going to start with the fuel filter, clean the air filter and spay the air flow sensor with sensor cleaner.

Suggestions if that doesn't help?

Mustang795

Well I'm not sure exactly how much help I can be but to me it kind of sounds like an alternator. With the rough idling, the dying on itself and then being able to start again only to die later. I would check out the alternator. Another thing I thought of was the fuel pump, it may not cause it to die but it could be a sign that your fuel pump is on it's way out, turn your key onto accessory or have someone else do it and listen for the fuel pump to engage, it should make a semi loud whirring noise. That's really all I can think of.

Fink

kinda sounds like a fuel filter/pump though, if it dies when you accelerate.

change fuel filter, have one of your sons listen to the fuel pump as you cycle the key on/off. if the pump primes, get a hold of a fuel pressure tester and attach it to the shrader valve on the DS fuel rail, right behind the alternator.

your battery light wasnt on was it? that would rule out the alternator.

whudson1980

Agreed with Fink. After you've ruled out the obvious ( fuel pump/filter ), and it still isn't solved, I would probably take the following route:

1) Rule out a timing issue. These models are notorious for coils going bad. . . Know from experience. Would also explain the rough idle. Any noticeable misfire? This is probably the cause. After coil, check for spark on all plugs and inspect wires.

2) Rule out a computer issue. WHen it dies, do you see the theft light flashing fast? Bad PCM or CCRM could essentially stop fuel from flowing, because this would inadvertently trip the PATS ( Passive ANti THeft System ). This will require a whole new set of possibilities, none of which are fun.

Mustang795

If your battery light was not on than it was not the alternator. But just to rule it out hook the car up to a donor battery or another cars battery and give it a jump to see if it will start. But I agree with everyone else that it does sound like it could be fuel pump failure. Have you had a really empty tank recently. Because when you leave your tank empty or let it get too empty the fuel pump inside the tank starts to suck in a little bit of air and that burns it out. So like I said before turn your key on accessory and have either you or someone else stand in the back of the car to see if you can hear the whirr of the pump priming, than check the pressure in the fuel rail. You should probably go ahead and change your fuel filter while your at it.

HRnB

All good recommendations. I haven't tried anything yet. It's not my daily driver, so I will go to the next step as soon as I can.

I'm also leaning towards a bad/going bad fuel pump.

Although there was a pop and idle change right when it happened. So it could be a timing related issue. I didn't consider it until whudson mentioned it.

I'm ruling out alt or power issue. That's all fine.

Because of the way it started and idled fine until I accelerated, makes me think air flow sensor or fuel delivery. But the rough idle could be timing or fuel delivery.

I'll keep everyone posted. Thanks.

HRnB

Update: It was a bad fuel pump.

I did all the easy things first, including the the fuel filter, sprayed the air flow sensor, tested with starting fluid to see the car can start and run, fuel pump relay. But still no fuel pump activating. So I bought an Airtex for $185 using my discount points at autozone. I was going to drop the tank this weekend, but I have buddy with a shop, so I had my AAA tow it over and he charged me $100 bux.

For the record for anyone needing a new fuel pump at some point, he said he'd normally charge $500 including the pump.

I've replaced several through the years myself. It's not hard as long as you have a flat surface to work on and jack stands, so you can use your jack to lower the tank, especially if it has gas in it, which it usually does and "the desire", lol.

Cliffs: Bad fuel pump.

Lunarwolf

My stang has 110k my pump is starting to act up. it wouldn't start when it was really cold out unless i turned the key on and off several times then i would hear the pump. i am just waiting for a warmer day than 30 to change it out so i keep it 1/4 full untill i do the pump lol

HRnB

It's harder on the fuel pump to let the tank get too low on gas. My mechanic buddy told me to never let the tank go less than a quarter tank and it will increase the life of the pump significantly.