Hey guys I'm really in need of some help here. Ok so I recently bought a 2000 v6 stang (convertable) from a co worker. Anyways... he had lost the chipped keys and didn't want to bother getting new ones , so he sold the car to me for $800 bucks.. So I went out and bought new lock cylinder plus two unprogrammed keys, I used forscan to program them and it was successful. The car started and ran good in indle for about 5 minutes then died. Now it will crank but will not start. Dtcs are p1000 p1233/1237 and b2438. What the he'll happend fpdm? Fp? Circuit? When I hook it up to my laptop the fuel pump monitor status keeps going from off to on and fp_fault status keeps going from yes fault. To no fault. Please help!

 

Moved from off topic, you'll get more help in here.....trust me

 

P1000= incomplete drive cycle testing incomplete. It happens when ever you disconnect the battery and then run a diagnostics test before you have driven the car a certain speed for a certain length of time and the computer has not had time to complete all of the self tests.

p1233/1237 that means the fuel pump driver module is most likely disabled from the pats or security.

The last one is passenger seat-belt buckle short to ground.

Apparently your key programmer did not work. You need to have a known working key or the actual factory software and code to program a blank key. If it was that easy to program a blank key every one would be making them and they wouldnt cost 75 bucks at the dealy.

 

@Mustangmattvoe Any luck?
Is the car running now?
Can you give a more detail back story?

Wondering if we have any issues in common?
I am fighting a P1000 (battery disconnected for a long time), U1262 (Scan Tool Malfunction), and P1237 (Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Malfunction).
The car (02 3.8 Conv) is not driven much and this summer it would not start. Long story and you can read it here.
I replaced the fuel pump and that is when the MIL showed up.
I have not found my Bluetooth reader since the move a couple of years ago. I had a cheap ($20) using Trouque ($25).
So I took it to local parts and asked them to read the codes. They all made sense after replacing the fuel pump. I asked the guy to clear it and he said it would not.
I am not having any driveability issues, other than "MAYBE" wire breaking down, so I thought I would drive it and see if it would clear. Not sure what it takes to reset, but it did not clear.
I bought a fuel pressure gauge and connected to the Shrader valve just to double-check the new pump. I was getting 55 PSI at idle and 60+ PSI revving the engine. I have found values from 35 PSI to 55 PSI. What is the right amount?
Just bought a BlueDriver and waiting for it to ship and I will have more info after that.