cman332001

Flap I am also in Colorado ... I am in the boulder area just north of denver so I am at an even slight higher altitude. I am think of dropping in a Procharger within the next year and I am real curious about the problems you are seeing when the temp drops.. at what temp do you begin to notice problems and how is it manifested... what do you mean you put it in nuetral and then restart? are u saying the problems are intermitten...



Sorry for bombing with questions I am just interested in our altitude/temp problems with blower



thanks!!

flapjack

ProCharger understates the full boost of their pulleys. The stock kit for our car is a 7 psi kit, but when you go through the manual and read the tech specs, it actually says 7-8 psi kit. The next kit is advertised as 9 psi, but it's actually 9-10 psi. This is why even with the 11 psi pulley, the 2 psi pressure loss at this altitude gives me 9-10. Air pressure gauges are fairly simple, and at this relatively low pressure (compared to an actual air compressor with 100+ psi gauges) it's very hard to get it wrong....

This is definitely something to keep in mind when you're shopping for forced induction.

All the more reason to make sure I have that wrench with me! I definitely do not want 11-12 psi on this engine... at least for a few years!

Oh yeah, I have a sweet article on our hypereuctic (sp?) pistons which I'll scan and post soon. Very good info and insight as to why Ford uses them....

flapjack

First off, Boulder is almost 1000ft lower than Colorado Springs. Boulder is at about 5400ft and Colorado Springs is at about 6400ft. I think the highest point between us is Monument Hill, at 7300ft!

Basically, our car's computers are capable of detecting a "lean" condition during operation. Lean mixtures = greater horsepower, but the extra heat from the bigger 'bang' creates higher cylinder temps, which in turn increases your risk of detonation. By detecting this condition, our cars can help prevent detonation before it occurs. The problem is if the PCM (or whatever Ford calls it) detects this, it throws the car into a "safe mode" not unlike safe mode on your computer. All I do, it put it in neutral so I can coast, shut the car off, count to three, and restart it.

So far, it's only happened at about 10F. This was at about 5500rpm. When the air is colder, it's denser. This denser air helps create the lean condition. Basically, my tune needs to put a bit more fuel in at that rpm range. I don't have the problem above 32F.... so it's probably pretty close to a perfect tune. We'll have to see.

George at RPM Outlet is waiting for my A/F numbers at WOT before he'll send me a new tune. He wants to get it right the first time. I got the gauge in last night, but it probably won't get installed until this weekend when I can take the car to the muffler shop so they can weld in the sensor bung. I considered welding it in myself, but they have more experience this stuff. I've done enough to this car on my own to bite the bullet and let someone else work on it.

Don't worry about asking questions! Sorry I couldn't reply sooner. I understood doing the rearend and S/C myself would bring on a bunch of questions, so keep 'em coming.

cman332001

Flap thanks for more info on the alt/temp problems you are seeing .. defintely keep me up to speed on how your ride is doing post SC install...Whenever you get a chance to dyno it I would be very interested in the HP / TQ at wheel (what are u guessing you will see there?). At any rate thanks for pioneering this effort, it makes things easy for those that upgrade down the road...


What type of rear-end work did u do? was it necessary due to the SC or was it just about getting more HP to the ground for you?


in otherwords : what else is needed with the procharger ? was it just the prochargerkit/tune and new fuel injectors etc???


again thanks for all the great info!!

flapjack

@cman

No problem. When I get the tune all straightened out, you'll have to let me know if you're down in the Springs area. I'll take you for a spin!

For the rearend, I decided to stick with the 3.31 gears and go with the Detroit TrueTrac. I did the job myself in about 6 hours. You can check out my install writeup here. Personally, I really wanted an LSD, but didn't trust the Ford T-lok to handle what I had planned for this car. Also, the TT doesn't require a rebuild like the T-lok does.

On that note, I'm really not sure how much HP the stock rear end can take. I know I definitely would not want all that power on one wheel, though....

Really, nothing is absolutely needed with the kit as it comes from RPM Outlet. There are a few things you can do to make it a more "enjoyable" experience, though. Basically, I ended up getting the rearend, boost gauge and A/F gauge on top of the kit. I already had the exhaust done, so that was something I didn't have to worry about. Dual exhaust is not required by any means... but having an S/C is definitely reason enough to get one.

cman332001

Kool..... I already have the dual exhaust (got it in prep of my future upgrades)... Looks like I will also get the tlock or something more durable like u said to get both wheels hooking up....


if I ever head down there I will check u out... it would be nice to drive or ride in before I invest all that $$$$, only thing is I am not sure I can do all my work myself like u did so I might even spend a little more on prof. install/tune.... do u know anyone in our area that is good... and I wouldn't mind driving south for the right shop....



thanks again!!

flapjack

I just created a new thread with my exhaust upgrade from yesterday...

https://mustangforums.com/m_1141511/tm.htm