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Shaker 8" Subwoofer Details & Specs

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Shaker 8" Subwoofer Details & Specs

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Old 06-05-2018, 07:08 PM
  #11  
08'MustangDude
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The Ford Shaker system is fairly unique in design, made specifically
for the 1.2 ohm speakers.

Amps are 40Watts, the RMS is not known, located in the driver's kick panel.

The shaker 1000, the rear 10" subs, each voice coil gets it's own amplifier.
There are four amps on that rear rack.

The amp itself, does not run on the ohm, it's made to handle certain loads. In
principal, any amp will run any ohm load, but to what extent? The less resistance
the speaker is, the more power sent through = more work being done by the amp.
The 1.2 ohm speaker on the amplifier means, ford tested the load on their amp, and
it was stable to a 1.2 ohm load. The amp is rated 2 ohm but stable down to 1.2 ohms.

Internals of the Shaker 500 front amplifier shows; NXP TDA8566Q ICs, 2*40W @ 2 ohm
240 W/2Ω stereo BTL car radio power amplifier with differential inputs and diagnostic outputs



You can therefore use any speaker from 1.2 ohm, to 4 ohm. STABLE, means the lowest
ohm value the amp can run at, and remain stable; thus not going into thermal shut down, or
blowing the amp. If you were to put a .6 ohm load on this ford amp, it may overload, and shut
down, or burn up. If the amp were rated at 1 ohm stable, the 1.2 ohm load is also fine.

Last edited by 08'MustangDude; 06-05-2018 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:48 PM
  #12  
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Dayum, thanks for the extra info and pics MustangDude. This thread could be cleaned up and made a sticky.
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Old 06-07-2018, 03:44 PM
  #13  
08'MustangDude
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If I Could clean it up, keep the thread, but have:
Post#1, RADIOS
Post#2, SPEAKERS
Post#3 AMPS
Post#4, WIRING DIAGRAMS

2006 SHAKER DOOR AND DECK 6X8:


2008 SHAKER DOOR AND DECK 6X8





2005 SHAKER 1000 SUBWOOFER DIAGRAM:



2005 SHAKER FRONT SUBWOOFER DIAGRAM:


2011 NAV SHAKER 500 / 1000 FRONT SUBWOOFER DIAGRAM


S197 FRONT SUBWOOFER AMP PINOUT:


SHAKER RADIO HARNESS C1 AND C4:

Last edited by 08'MustangDude; 10-12-2018 at 02:55 AM.
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Old 06-08-2018, 01:19 AM
  #14  
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More stuff added...
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Old 06-29-2018, 03:49 PM
  #15  
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Pics and some information updated.
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Old 09-13-2018, 07:43 PM
  #16  
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Updated door speaker info and pics.
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Old 09-14-2018, 04:01 PM
  #17  
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I just added bunch of stuff, an error popped up and said only allowed 51 images
in the post, and it popped out and I lost all the edits. SO, I can't do anything
more with the post. Adding the other data and diagrams way down here, on page
two, makes it very unorganized, so I guess am done with this post. So, if there
is something a MOD or ADMIN can do so I can keep up with a post with no replies
except my own to keep adding information, that would help, as I find data and specs
on the Shaker systems. I found a Pinout for the door amps, and lost all that stuff
when I tried to save...
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Old 10-11-2018, 04:00 PM
  #18  
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Here's a question for you Mr. Dude...

Kicker has a 1 ohm DVC shallow 8 inch that looks like it could fit in the Stangs door:Kicker CompRT 43CWRT81

Any reason why not to go for for an easy swap to retain everything else as factory in a Shaker 500 system?

My other thought was thePioneer TS-SW2002D2

You had previously listed because it has a lower frequency response. The only draw back to this one is that it's a 2-Ohm DVC so the stock amps would have to go as I wouldn't want less output at the same volume setting. Any ideas on what the fused rating is of the two Shaker 500 amps in the drivers kick panel are? I really don't want to get into a full blown install with a dedicated amp power system, that will just lead to me getting more expensive speakers, which will lead to me wanting a better head unit, which then means a full DSP to fix the audio characteristics of the interior in addition to adding a dedicated sub in the trunk.... I hate modding

And yes, I realize the pioneer has better sensitivity (86dB) but I can't image the stock subs having a higher sensitivity than even the Kicker at 82dB if I remember.

Last edited by Derf00; 10-11-2018 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 10-11-2018, 05:23 PM
  #19  
08'MustangDude
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Not sure the amp would be stable at 1-ohm, we know it is to 1.2 ohms. If it were me,
yeah, I would definitely try the 43CWRT81 speakers, as long as they fit. It sure has the
big surround like the factory ones. I like them, good find.

All the door sub speakers I listed are to stay factory, I did not put anything there about the front subs
for changing amplifiers. The amps are 80 watts, 40 x 2 at 2-ohm. The diagram clearly shows a
30 amp fuse powering both amplifiers, always hot, 5V turn on leads. So, you could find a decent
4 channel sub amp if you wanted, however, there really is no need for door subs.

The STOCK amps are rated at 2-ohms per coil, the speakers are 1.2 ohm. People are using the
2-ohm, and even that one voice coil with the Kicker direct replacement kit for the Shaker system.
I have not read anyone saying the bass went to crap with that specific shaker kit. The installation
even says you aren't going to one one pair of wires, so you lose 40 watts per side with that kit.
http://info.shelbyamerican.com/Instr...A-8-WOOFER.pdf

I listed compatible speakers solely based on the 2-ohm impedance, not for any other parameters.
When I get verification the 43CWRT81 fit and work, I will add them. If I had ~$300.00 to buy a pair,
I would. Best I found was $118.46 each, on eBay, four left at this time. $129,95, 8 left as of this
post.

You won't need to use a DSP when you are using dedicated Subwoofer outputs. The head-unit does
all the work. You need a DSP when your radio does not have a Sub out, and use the speaker
leads. However, some car head units do put bass out on the front leads, so use those all the
time for newer cars to not have to use a DSP. So, you would probably need a DSP if you used
the rear deck speaker leads to an AMP for subwoofers. You won't if you used the front door
speaker leads; this in a car that does not have subs, but you still have bass at the front doors.
The VW Fender system is set up like this, but also has the deck mounted sub. Most other
VWs, bass id at the front door speakers, not rear doors, and there are no deck speakers in any
MK6 Jatta... In my '15 TSI, when I fade rear, no good bass, fade front, I have bass, so if I want to add
the sub-amp, and hang the sub (I have a trunk Fender sub), then I would wire the amp to the
front speaker leads.

When I wired the subwoofers into my former charger, I used the front door speaker leads to a
hi-lo box, then ran the RCAs to the trunk. I did not need a DSP.

Last edited by 08'MustangDude; 10-11-2018 at 05:33 PM.
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Old 10-11-2018, 05:53 PM
  #20  
Derf00
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Originally Posted by 08'MustangDude View Post
Not sure the amp would be stable at 1-ohm, we know it is to 1.2 ohms. If it were me,
yeah, I would definitely try the 43CWRT81 speakers, as long as they fit. It sure has the
big surround like the factory ones. I like them, good find.

All the door sub speakers I listed are to stay factory, I did not put anything there about the front subs
for changing amplifiers. The amps are 80 watts, 40 x 2 at 2-ohm. The diagram clearly shows a
30 amp fuse powering both amplifiers, always hot, 5V turn on leads. So, you could find a decent
4 channel sub amp if you wanted, however, there really is no need for door subs.

The STOCK amps are rated at 2-ohms per coil, the speakers are 1.2 ohm. People are using the
2-ohm, and even that one voice coil with the Kicker direct replacement kit for the Shaker system.
I have not read anyone saying the bass went to crap with that specific shaker kit. The installation
even says you aren't going to one one pair of wires, so you lose 40 watts per side with that kit.
http://info.shelbyamerican.com/Instr...A-8-WOOFER.pdf

I listed compatible speakers solely based on the 2-ohm impedance, not for any other parameters.
When I get verification the 43CWRT81 fit and work, I will add them. If I had ~$300.00 to buy a pair,
I would. Best I found was $118.46 each, on eBay, four left at this time. $129,95, 8 left as of this
post.

You won't need to use a DSP when you are using dedicated Subwoofer outputs. The head-unit does
all the work. You need a DSP when your radio does not have a Sub out, and use the speaker
leads. However, some car head units do put bass out on the front leads, so use those all the
time for newer cars to not have to use a DSP.
Thanks for the feedback. I wonder if they purposely designed 1.2 ohm voice coils to overcome some of the resistance in the skinny wires they run to the speaker? Infinity makes some 3ohm component speakers for just that reason. They have a 3ohm svc but it still looks like a true 4ohm to the amp from what they say.

i saw that shelby/kicker upgrade before and considered it until i saw it was svc and thus only worked at half power of the oem. Great idea, not so great execution.

Off topic :
anyways, I'm in the process of upgrading my daughter's 2017 Escape audio system. She got the base 4.2 audio system. Ive already added an Alpine 4x45 rms mini amp that runs off the factory HU power feed and is now hidden above the glove box. I have a pair of pioneer components that will be going into the front doors. If i like them, the rears will get the same set. For the sub i bought a used factory sub enclosure with factory sub that gets tucked into the driver quarter panel. It contains a sony 8" 2 ohm dvc that handles a whopping 25 watts per coil! An uograded sub will get run off an Audio Control acm 1.300 mini amp.

this brings me to my point.
back on topic:
I'll buy one of the kicker subs and try it in the mustang. If i don't like it, won't fit, or it's not compatible, it will get installed in the escape and its enclosure. The audio control amp is stable to 2ohms and i wanted to get the full 300rms (only 175 at 4 ohms) out of that sub since the rest of the speakers and their amp will have already been upgraded. They also make a 2ohm dvc version which would be the next step is the 1-ohm dvc doesn't work.

I'll update this thread once i get it and get to tinker with it.

Last edited by Derf00; 10-11-2018 at 06:08 PM.
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