Alternator Pulley Disintegrated?
07-27-2009, 03:24 PM
#11
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 189
The starter solenoid is on the driver's side fender on my car, right near the ignition coil. The cable only needs to be so long as to run it from the solenoid to the radiator support, underneath the air intake, then to the back of the alternator. I used a cutoff wheel and notched the alternator bracket in a whole 1-2 minutes. Even left the bracket in the car and just covered the motor or other important part with a towel to block out metal shavings.
So I should just be able to follow the existing wire over to find it - good to know. Hopefully I won't have to notch the bracket... I do have a dremel but the car is currently too far from an electrical outlet to use it. The alternator that's currently on there seems pretty big to begin with so maybe it's already been done...
Thanks for the advice!
07-30-2009, 12:29 PM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: NJ
Posts: 189
So I just got back from a 1.5 hour test drive... the new alternator I put in is working great, and I'm well-satisfied with the one-wire system. The internal regulator keeps the voltage rock-steady at 14.4v no matter what accessories I try. I notice a tiny drop when the windows are all the way down and won't go any further... that seems normal, though.
The Summit Racing 100-amp 1-wire alternator I got switches on around 800rpm so the battery does charge at idle. To hook it up I elected to install some 2/0 wire from Home Depot - it cost $17 and can definitely handle a lot more than 100 amps of current. I put in a 175 amp fuse link and fastened it down to the positive terminal on the starter solenoid - right where the hot battery cable is attached. I took special care to make sure it wouldn't twist around and short down to the negative terminal. All the old alternator connectors are now taped off. A few of the things I had to do weren't clear to me at first, such as how to lift the belt tensioner and which terminal on the starter solenoid to hook the new charge cable to. The 2 10AWG black/orange wires that come from the stock setup end up going through a green 14AWG fuse link into the solenoid. It meets up with the positive battery cable there.
If anyone wants pictures, PM me.
The Summit Racing 100-amp 1-wire alternator I got switches on around 800rpm so the battery does charge at idle. To hook it up I elected to install some 2/0 wire from Home Depot - it cost $17 and can definitely handle a lot more than 100 amps of current. I put in a 175 amp fuse link and fastened it down to the positive terminal on the starter solenoid - right where the hot battery cable is attached. I took special care to make sure it wouldn't twist around and short down to the negative terminal. All the old alternator connectors are now taped off. A few of the things I had to do weren't clear to me at first, such as how to lift the belt tensioner and which terminal on the starter solenoid to hook the new charge cable to. The 2 10AWG black/orange wires that come from the stock setup end up going through a green 14AWG fuse link into the solenoid. It meets up with the positive battery cable there.
If anyone wants pictures, PM me.
07-31-2009, 10:19 PM
#15
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location:
Posts: 1,999
What happens sometimes is the nut that holds the pulley onto the shaft. It's not torqued down properly and it loosens itself off. Now the pulley is spinning the shaft but it wobbles around a bit. Well, a bit, turns into alot and eventually the pulley is toast.
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