New Heater Blower Motor Question
#1
New Heater Blower Motor Question
I am rebuilding the heater box on my 65. I just got a new blower motor from mustangs unlimited ( MM243 01 ). It looks identicle except it has 2 threaded studs coming off of it. It looks like they do not need to be nearly that long. What are they for? I would like to shorten them, but don't want to if they serve some purpose.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...sp?T1=MM243+01
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...sp?T1=MM243+01
Last edited by tx65coupe; 02-22-2009 at 01:09 AM.
#2
can you compare the length of the studs to the old one? I worked on replacing mine last year...there is a gasket that goes between the blower plate and the firewall..do you have that?
also If i remember correctly the studs are pretty long,because it gets pushed through from the interior side.the length of them might seem a little deciving and I would cut anything ,of course, until you are really sure and have the old one out.
Scott
also If i remember correctly the studs are pretty long,because it gets pushed through from the interior side.the length of them might seem a little deciving and I would cut anything ,of course, until you are really sure and have the old one out.
Scott
#3
Do you need the one with the squirrel cage attached or can you use your existing one? Just the motor is a cheaper option:
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...sp?T1=35540+01
At any rate if you compare this motor to your current set up:
You will notice that the threaded rods go all the way through the motor on the replacement, while you have carriage bolts (flat head on one end) in the original. The threaded end that corresponds to the studs on the original are used to attach the mounting plate. Make sure they are long enough and then cut the excess off of the end sticking into the engine compartment.
Those studs hold the motor together and I ended up swapping the original carriage bolts into the new motor to retain the factory look. You can do the same as long as you hold the motor together while you are swapping them. Do one side at a time.
http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ite...sp?T1=35540+01
At any rate if you compare this motor to your current set up:
You will notice that the threaded rods go all the way through the motor on the replacement, while you have carriage bolts (flat head on one end) in the original. The threaded end that corresponds to the studs on the original are used to attach the mounting plate. Make sure they are long enough and then cut the excess off of the end sticking into the engine compartment.
Those studs hold the motor together and I ended up swapping the original carriage bolts into the new motor to retain the factory look. You can do the same as long as you hold the motor together while you are swapping them. Do one side at a time.
#4
Yeah I thought the motor by itself would be cheaper.
The complete unit I got was 5 dollars cheaper than the motor by itself. I thought that was odd.
Even though they hole the motor together I still don't see why they are so long. I just thought that maybe there was some purpose for them being long.
The complete unit I got was 5 dollars cheaper than the motor by itself. I thought that was odd.
Even though they hole the motor together I still don't see why they are so long. I just thought that maybe there was some purpose for them being long.
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