I've done it both ways. Over the top is best if you have to take the blower off again. That way all you do is unbolt the fuel rail and pull it and the injectors with no gas spillage. If you do it behind and need to pull the blower you will have to pull the fuel line off the rail and it's a pita.

I like the way it looks too.

 

hummm, I like it cleaner with the line out of site, it's all preference, no right or wrong

 

No you dont have to take the hose off. Mine runs behind and I did pull the blower off, just unbolt the rail.

 

I did. The only way I could see not taking the line off would be to disconnect the main fuel line on the driver side rail.

 

I bought some new fuel injection hose and routed it behind the Whipple. Soaking the ends in boiling water really helped them slide onto the fitting. The hose ends sit against the stop now instead of just the first few b.a.r.b.s. (for some reason, typing b.a.r.b.s without the periods makes them censored and shows only asterisks). The issue I had with the heater hose was resolved by buying a 3/4" heater hose connector. I also finished installing the intercooler, GT500 fuel pump (what a PITA that was), FPDM & its connections (what a pain having to remove the right front wheel to run the power wire to the fuse box). In addition, I extended the TPS and electronic throttle connector (I hate working with plastic wire looms). I stopped before doing the MAF connectors. Too tired. Going to continue tomorrow. This has turned out to be longer than I expected.

Here's some pics...


Belt routing


Fuel rail crossover hose (before). Hose on top of Whipple.


Fuel rail crossover hose (after). Hose routed behind Whipple. Much nicer now since the black hose doesn't stand out being on top of the polished Whipple.






Intercooler pump bracket is different than what is shown in the Whipple instructions. Whipple needs to update their install manual! Note I haven't pushed the spring clip up to secure the discharge hose before taking this pic.


Intercooler reservoir


Intercooler pump harness routed through crossmember to be connected to intercooler pump.

 

They must of forgot to put that heater hose connector in your kit because I didnt need to buy anything for mine.. Lookin good tho, youre getting close!!

 

looking great, nice job!

 

I wanted to ask you guys before I get to the steps shown below. Notice the instructions say to start the car to bleed the air pockets in step 228 and then it says to flash your PCM in step 230. Hmmm...shouldn't I flash the PCM first before starting the car at all? Also, how long did you have to leave the bleed screw open and did you open it before the car has warmed up or after? Another thing...did you wait for the engine to cool down again between steps 228 and 229? Thanks!

227. Reconnect the battery ground connector.

228. Refill the engine coolant system with a 60% (distilled water)/40% (coolant such as Zerex G-05) mix of distilled water and Ford approved engine coolant. Whipple also recommends running 1 bottle of Redline Water Wetter which can be found at most automotive parts stores. 􀃌 WARNING!! DO NOT USE TAP WATER OR ANY NON FORD APPROVED ENGINE COOLANT, THIS WILL CAUSE CORRISION IN THE SYSTEM. Start engine to completely fill system. Using a flat head screw driver, bleed the air-pockets from the cooling system. You must wait until the thermostat opens, which is after 160deg F. Use a rag to stop the coolant from spraying everywhere. Tighten bleed fitting when done.

229. Fill the IC system with a 60% (distilled water)/40% (coolant such as Zerex G-05) mix of distilled water and Ford approved engine coolant. Whipple also recommends running 1 bottle of Redline Water Wetter which can be found at most automotive parts stores. 􀃌 WARNING!! DO NOT USE TAP WATER OR ANY NON FORD APPROVED ENGINE COOLANT, THIS WILL CAUSE CORRISION IN THE SYSTEM. Start engine to completely fill system.

230. Using your Ford Racing flash tool, follow the detailed instructions to reflash your factory PCM.

231. Start engine and check for any fuel or coolant leaks.

 

Since it'll just be idling, there's no need for the new tune. You won't be, and shouldn't be, getting into boost (you would blow for sure). But, you can go ahead and load it just to get it out of the way.

 

most load the whipple tune before starting, but
a few did not.

it's a confusing warning... i believe the intent
is to load the whipple tune, then start the car.