Shaker 1000
08-15-2005, 12:48 AM
#21
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location:
Posts: 129
RE: Shaker 1000
That's odd.. how do companies make CD players in 2005 that have compatiblity problems? I figured every CD player now should just be able to play every CD.
I burned one disc of MP3's so far and it's my only disc I use, and it doesn't have any problems with my Shaker 1000.
I burned one disc of MP3's so far and it's my only disc I use, and it doesn't have any problems with my Shaker 1000.
08-15-2005, 11:22 PM
#24
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location:
Posts: 163
RE: Shaker 1000
ORIGINAL: Exilenla
Dajohu
I am glad to find some input from someone that seems to know a bit about systems..... Can you tell me if you shaker 1000 is still in its stock state????
If so can you try a REALLY HI BASS tune in the system and turn it up between 1/2 and 3/4 of the volume and let me know if you get much rattling from the 2 rear 1/4 panels and the bumper area.
This is where I am getting MAJOR vibration and Ford are not prepared to do anything about it! [:@] I feel that if I paid $1200 (i think that was the cost) it SHOULD NOT sound like a 82 corolla with a back seat full of speakers and rattles....
The strange thing is, of all the rattling, my licence plate DOES NOT make a sound.......I am jsut about at my wits end with it.....
You help would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers!
Exilenla
ORIGINAL: dajohu
Correct, the non-shaker systems have no subs. The Shaker 500 has a sub in each door (8") and the Shaker 1000 has an additional 2 10" in the trunk. The two tens in the trunk are dual voice coil, and each the four amps behind the sub box power one voice coil. I think the amps for the two 8" are behind the kick panels and the other speakers are all powered off the deck.
It is ok sounding, nothing like the sound you could get for the same money aftermarket. But if you want to stay stock and don't want to rattle your car apart (trunk lids, vibrating interior panels) they work fine. Considering the sub box only has a total of about 260w rms and weighs in at 35lbs it sounds pretty darn good. The frequency response is actually very good, flat all the way down. With a bass cd they will hit very low notes, but if you've had a decent sub setup before you'll notice you have no control over the crossover(much higher than I would like it) or bass boost other than the bass control that effects all speakers (probably very wide band and at 100 hz rather than narrow band and at 40 hz where most amps have it).
I decided on getting a factory setup on my stang after my last car. I spent a whole weekend installing goodies and making it look professional. Sounded awesome, loud and deep bass. Only problem was it weighed a couple hundred pounds, had a major current draw on the car, needed stiffening caps and a second battery, and rattled the crap out of the entire car, every single thing on the car rattled, especially the trunk lid and spoiler. I took it out one day later, I decided then I had "outgrown" it and preferred speed and trunk space to the loud thump. I moved the system over into my POS truck and have not bought any stereo equipment since, that was about 1 year ago
Correct, the non-shaker systems have no subs. The Shaker 500 has a sub in each door (8") and the Shaker 1000 has an additional 2 10" in the trunk. The two tens in the trunk are dual voice coil, and each the four amps behind the sub box power one voice coil. I think the amps for the two 8" are behind the kick panels and the other speakers are all powered off the deck.
It is ok sounding, nothing like the sound you could get for the same money aftermarket. But if you want to stay stock and don't want to rattle your car apart (trunk lids, vibrating interior panels) they work fine. Considering the sub box only has a total of about 260w rms and weighs in at 35lbs it sounds pretty darn good. The frequency response is actually very good, flat all the way down. With a bass cd they will hit very low notes, but if you've had a decent sub setup before you'll notice you have no control over the crossover(much higher than I would like it) or bass boost other than the bass control that effects all speakers (probably very wide band and at 100 hz rather than narrow band and at 40 hz where most amps have it).
I decided on getting a factory setup on my stang after my last car. I spent a whole weekend installing goodies and making it look professional. Sounded awesome, loud and deep bass. Only problem was it weighed a couple hundred pounds, had a major current draw on the car, needed stiffening caps and a second battery, and rattled the crap out of the entire car, every single thing on the car rattled, especially the trunk lid and spoiler. I took it out one day later, I decided then I had "outgrown" it and preferred speed and trunk space to the loud thump. I moved the system over into my POS truck and have not bought any stereo equipment since, that was about 1 year ago
I am glad to find some input from someone that seems to know a bit about systems..... Can you tell me if you shaker 1000 is still in its stock state????
If so can you try a REALLY HI BASS tune in the system and turn it up between 1/2 and 3/4 of the volume and let me know if you get much rattling from the 2 rear 1/4 panels and the bumper area.
This is where I am getting MAJOR vibration and Ford are not prepared to do anything about it! [:@] I feel that if I paid $1200 (i think that was the cost) it SHOULD NOT sound like a 82 corolla with a back seat full of speakers and rattles....
The strange thing is, of all the rattling, my licence plate DOES NOT make a sound.......I am jsut about at my wits end with it.....
You help would be greatly appreciated!
Cheers!
Exilenla
OK, I did this test with the car not running. I cranked the bass and put on a good Marylin Manson song with some good bass hits and went about half way up. Honestly I never really listen to it that loud, I rarely go above about 3 or 4 bars, not sure how many in total there are though. From inside it sounded very good, but I could hear a little rattling from behind somewhere, but at that friggen volume I would HOPE something would vibrate! I got out and heard a loud rattling from the rear, I held my hand against the bottom of the bumper plastic and 90% of it stopped. Almost sounds like a metal clanking sound. Again, at that volume I would most likely be going 75 down the interstate anyway and neither I nor anyone else could hear it anyway.
The shaker 1000 is not the type of soundsystem you would go crusing at 5 mph with the windows down and playing some loud bass to wake up the neighbors with (remember only 230w rms between 2 ten inch subs) and in a plastic box, with not-so-expensive speakers in it.
You can spend a lot of time and money to get rid of all the noises a car will make when loud amounts of bass are pumping out of it. I used to enjoy doing that sort of thing, but not anymore. No matter how bad you try something (spoiler, trunk lid, interior panels) will end up vibrating. Unless you glue and soundproof every single surface inside your car you will have this problem sooner or later. This would happen on a non factory sound system even worse on an aftermarket assuming it has even more power and more bass. Want a good soundsystem in a vehicle without the rattles? get a brand new truck that has no spoiler and no trunk to rattle. I drove trucks for the last 10 years and put many systems into them all with very few rattle issues compared to all the installs I've done in cars.
I find myself listening to the car more than the stereo anyway, not because of anything wrong with the shaker, but because I like the sound of my car
OK, I'm done.
08-16-2005, 03:13 AM
#25
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: New Orleans, La
Posts: 740
RE: Shaker 1000
If anyone cares at all about car stereo in your 'Stang, order yours without the shaker system all together.
I am a sales manager for a mobile electronics store in New Orleans, and believe me, for the money one would pay for the shaker 1000 system, you can have a much better system installed at any decent shop. I'm personally using JL Audio, but just about anything is better than the factory equipment. The only drawback to changing the system is the loss of the 6-disc in-dash player (which skips and has other problems anyway).
I am a sales manager for a mobile electronics store in New Orleans, and believe me, for the money one would pay for the shaker 1000 system, you can have a much better system installed at any decent shop. I'm personally using JL Audio, but just about anything is better than the factory equipment. The only drawback to changing the system is the loss of the 6-disc in-dash player (which skips and has other problems anyway).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
JoshyGT
S550 2015-2023 Mustang
16
09-19-2017 08:52 PM
Shifty Magoo
Audio/Visual Electronics
0
08-25-2015 03:08 PM
