Blacksmoke

Can't answer on the idle.
It is actually at the dealership right now.

But if I think about it.....
My idle at stop is set to about 850 but sometimes it gets to 1k.
It does it at these idles I am sure of.

Now... when the car is moving I have not noticed it.
Again... when the clutch is pushed in... the noise also goes away.

top00cat

I wouldnt touch anything. Mine made a similar noise right after installing hot rod cams. It is worse with the AC on and when I lower the idle. It is def the throw out bearing. 6 thousand miles and no problems yet. I believe others have had this as well

Blue GT Mustang

The 5/50 powertrain warranty started in late '06. I bought my '06 GT in August 2006 and I have the 5/50.

Diabolical!

True, except it's 5/60. I bought my '06 in March of '06 and had the 3 year 36K mile warranty (not that it mattered, I voided the hell out of it within a few months anyway, lol). My '07 F150 has the 5 year 60K mile warranty.

Smoke, if you plan on having the tranny down for any reason, I'd go ahead and replace the clutch. It costs a lot to drop a tranny, so why have to do it again in the near future? I have a SPEC and it hasn't caused me any problems, but I can't recommend them due to their serious customer service issues. If I were doing it again, I'd go with a McLeod setup.

timmbo

I have the Hot Rod Cams too. When it neutral with the AC on, clutch disengaged I will get the clack or knock from the tranny. The lope of the cams interrupting an otherwise stock normal rhythm is what causes the noise. Push in the clutch and it disappears. I think my idle is set to 850. Set the rpm any lower and the noise is much more pronounced. Most times when my AC is off however I rarely get the noise. But if I do and i'm sitting in traffic and it happens I just push in the clutch. To me its not a big deal.

JDWalton

I dunno man, I think my cams are more lumpy then hot rods, and i set my idel at 800, I dont get any of that. Maybe I'm just lucky but were talking about a mechanical item. If one is capable of running and not making the noise, they all should be.

Blacksmoke

I'll decide on the clutch when I talk to them.
If the car is not supposed to make the noise I want to replace the parts. Period.

I want no risks.
As far as the clutch I am having a hard time making up my mind now. I want a clutch that will be as driveable as the stock clutch that's for sure. But I'd like one that could handle more hp/trq.

I have no idea about them though so please post links to the EXACT clutches you are talking about. As far as the spec clutch... should I go with 3 or 3+ ?
Also... flywheel... replace or no? Spec says yes to avoid chatter and fit properly
If so aluminum or steel? Do aluminums really sometimes have clutch chatter/rattle with them?
Remember this is my daily so I don't want any chatter, vibration or noise.
I am already dealing with a little due to resonance.

As far as customer service.... the dealership would be the one putting this in so
Specs customer service shouldnt be an issue I would'nt think at least.

Again... I'd like to do the replacement while I am at it as well.
However at this moment I am REALLY strained on money.
So it is going to come down to just how big of a total I am looking at.

How long are the stock clutch's supposed to last anyway people?
If I keep the one in their now...how much more life am I looking at on it?
I have about 47k mi. on it now.

Thanks!

JDWalton

Clutchs last depending on the driver and the mods. With your setup, I would expect to get a little over 100, but with 50k on it already, if you start driving hard or keep adding mods, your gonna have to start worrying about slipping. I had 3k on my clutch, added the Stg 3 Saleen from brenspeed, and it was slipping already.

The reason some of us are saying do a clutch now, is you dont want to pay to drop the tranmission again later, so its peace of mind and future cost savings your looking at.

The Flywheel can usualy be resurfaced at the dealer. That said, I have also installed a Spec Steel flywheel. That is a good unit that is pretty cheap and reliable / rebuildable. I belive it is also lighter then stock, but none of the potential drawbacks of alluminum. up to you/dealer replace or resurface.

As for the clutch itself, the 2+ is supposed to be the best match of drivability and grip, though a few people did have problems with them in the past. Recently I have not seen any complaints though, so I dont know if they had a bad batch or what, but they been doing pretty good. I run a Spec 3, as does my mom, both drivable and no issues.

This is what I run:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/spec-s...gt-clutch.html
The pedal is still near stock, but the material is very grabby. I like it that way, just takes some finess on the pedal.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/spec-s...gt-clutch.html
Is a common one now, like I said, there were some problems apperantly with them, but nothing I have seen recently. They are supposed to be VERY streetable with incredible hold capacity.

As for the flywheel, there is no need to spend more then:
http://www.americanmuscle.com/spec-s...l-2005-gt.html

But the dealer may be able to resurface your exhisting flywheel. That would be good question to ask them what there comfortable with.

Blacksmoke

Thank SO MUCH for all the help.

So you would recommend the 3 for me instead of the 3+

And you would go with the spec steel flywheel so no issues of the alum?
I think I'd rather get a new flywheel than worry about the resurfacing job at the dealership and how good they are or how good of a fit
it will turn out to be.

SHAT.. you know what I just thought of?
They had to take the tranny apart just to see the problem.
They have to order the parts then take it back apart to install right?

So am I looking at FRIGGIN labor FOR BOTH?
5 for the looking for the problem or whatever... and 5 for the install?

JDWalton

you need to go down there and have a serious talk with the service manager now, do not continue without estimates, and weather or not your going to be covered under warranty, they longer you go the bigger the bill will be. Get some of this info confirmed before they touch your car again.