Specific Interior Lights Won't Shut Off
07-26-2018, 11:21 AM
#11
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Missouri
Posts: 444
Wow! You’re calling BS. That’s a little personal don’t you think. I told you I stated I pulled the SJB and inspected it for water intrusion/rust and there is none. Why would I BS anyone on this forum? I asking for help and I’m running suggestions to ground. See attached pictures and quick talking like a tough guy threatening someone over the internet.
The only other thing I can think of is a dealer visit or qualified shop... they'll have to trace each circuit to find the closed one...
Just to be sure, undoing the battery had no effect?
07-26-2018, 02:13 PM
#13
Gentleman's Relish
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: AZ
Posts: 13,090
It's completely possible that the board has gotten damp (like condensation). That would be very hard to find evidence of on the panels surrounding it.
The white spots on the second photo I assume is light reflecting off the lens? On your first and second photo, again maybe just light reflections but there is a weird outline on the portion of the part where you have the rows of resistors and individual connectors. At the bottom of the part/image.
Take a magnifying glass and look very closely at the solder points on both sides, there should be no white fuzzy or white crusty stuff on them. If there is, it can be enough to cause a short. Ultimately you should have the board traced as GT Nate suggested but, in the interim you can take some electrical parts cleaner and spray and gently brush both sides of the board.
If cleaning it fixes the issue , then there is corrosion on one or more contacts causing the problem. It will come back though unless the board is properly treated with a sealant. If cleaning it doesn't fix the issue then you may want to look at the wiring behind the center stack where the radio and center console are.
To get into there is pretty easy. The service manual leaves a lot out.
1) Remove the Auto selector trim ring. It just pops up.
2) Remove the two Philips screws nearest the hinge under the center arm rest
3) Then grab the black part of the center console and with a nice solid upward motion tug/pop the top half of the center console up.
3) Now grab the trim that runs from the bottom of dash to the floor on the left and right side of the center stack where the stereo is and pull it towards the center console (pull towards the rear of the car). They pop free pretty easily.
4) At the base of the face plate and behind the center stack there are two connectors. The drivers side one is for the seat heaters if equipped, It's just pryed off with a flat blade screwdriver. where the sliding lock-pin is (it's facing the ground).
5)The other one on the passenger side is for the HVAC controls and much more difficult and delicate. To release the electrical connector, there is a gray lever pointing up that must be pushed down. As the lever is pushed down, it automatically releases the connector and pushes it away from the receptacle. The trick is, it has a lock mechanism and it's not easy to figure out how to release the lever without breaking the lock mechanism. Don't be surprised if you break the lock on it. The Lever will still work if the lock is broken as long as you didn't mangled it too bad.
6)There are 6x 7mm bolts for the center stack face plate.
7) You will then have two or three electrical connectors at the top of the faceplate to remove before the center stack face plate is free (12V power, Info button, and TCS/Hazards buttons)
Tip, to remove the faceplate easily, you'll need to put the transmission into the N position or lower.
8) There are 4x 7mm bolts that hold the stereo in place.
9) remove the stereo by disconnecting the wiring harness and the antenna lead.
10) The antenna lead has a wonky lock it to. There is a black ring that locks in place. I can't remember if you have to push both the ring and antenna in, then just pull the antenna connector out or if you have to push antenna in while pulling out on the black ring.
Anyways, once that's free you'll have open access to the wiring harnesses behind the center stack.
Look for chewed wires.
If you need visuals.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=461&f=Console%20Floor.pdf (only items 1, 2 and 3)
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=461&f=Instrum...sh%20Panel.pdf
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=377&f=Audio%20Unit.pdf
The white spots on the second photo I assume is light reflecting off the lens? On your first and second photo, again maybe just light reflections but there is a weird outline on the portion of the part where you have the rows of resistors and individual connectors. At the bottom of the part/image.
Take a magnifying glass and look very closely at the solder points on both sides, there should be no white fuzzy or white crusty stuff on them. If there is, it can be enough to cause a short. Ultimately you should have the board traced as GT Nate suggested but, in the interim you can take some electrical parts cleaner and spray and gently brush both sides of the board.
If cleaning it fixes the issue , then there is corrosion on one or more contacts causing the problem. It will come back though unless the board is properly treated with a sealant. If cleaning it doesn't fix the issue then you may want to look at the wiring behind the center stack where the radio and center console are.
To get into there is pretty easy. The service manual leaves a lot out.
1) Remove the Auto selector trim ring. It just pops up.
2) Remove the two Philips screws nearest the hinge under the center arm rest
3) Then grab the black part of the center console and with a nice solid upward motion tug/pop the top half of the center console up.
3) Now grab the trim that runs from the bottom of dash to the floor on the left and right side of the center stack where the stereo is and pull it towards the center console (pull towards the rear of the car). They pop free pretty easily.
4) At the base of the face plate and behind the center stack there are two connectors. The drivers side one is for the seat heaters if equipped, It's just pryed off with a flat blade screwdriver. where the sliding lock-pin is (it's facing the ground).
5)The other one on the passenger side is for the HVAC controls and much more difficult and delicate. To release the electrical connector, there is a gray lever pointing up that must be pushed down. As the lever is pushed down, it automatically releases the connector and pushes it away from the receptacle. The trick is, it has a lock mechanism and it's not easy to figure out how to release the lever without breaking the lock mechanism. Don't be surprised if you break the lock on it. The Lever will still work if the lock is broken as long as you didn't mangled it too bad.
6)There are 6x 7mm bolts for the center stack face plate.
7) You will then have two or three electrical connectors at the top of the faceplate to remove before the center stack face plate is free (12V power, Info button, and TCS/Hazards buttons)
Tip, to remove the faceplate easily, you'll need to put the transmission into the N position or lower.
8) There are 4x 7mm bolts that hold the stereo in place.
9) remove the stereo by disconnecting the wiring harness and the antenna lead.
10) The antenna lead has a wonky lock it to. There is a black ring that locks in place. I can't remember if you have to push both the ring and antenna in, then just pull the antenna connector out or if you have to push antenna in while pulling out on the black ring.
Anyways, once that's free you'll have open access to the wiring harnesses behind the center stack.
Look for chewed wires.
If you need visuals.
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=461&f=Console%20Floor.pdf (only items 1, 2 and 3)
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=461&f=Instrum...sh%20Panel.pdf
http://iihs.net/fsm/?d=377&f=Audio%20Unit.pdf
07-27-2018, 01:44 PM
#14
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Ft. Worth Tx
Posts: 601
1- just stating facts, 2- trying to help, not being a D/ nimrod/ hater lol, 3- you did not mention removing, taking apart and inspecting the sjb prior to my post. I agree with Derf, some spots on your SJB look suspect. wet/corroded SJB connectors and or board can cause all kinds of issues. was raining hard out and drove thru a large puddle, pass side. got to work, turned off car. the middle brake light was illuminated, just the 1. had to go to work so disconnected the battery. after work, reconnect and the light wasn't on anymore.
http://iihs.net/fsm/
workshop manual, maybe you can find the wire colors and trace back to a certain connector on the SJB, good luck
http://iihs.net/fsm/
workshop manual, maybe you can find the wire colors and trace back to a certain connector on the SJB, good luck
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