351 Mustang

351w tear down problems

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Old 04-06-2009, 09:48 AM
  #11  
Chaoss84GT50
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you could heat just the bolt up and put parafin wax I think thats the stuff to use, pretty sure at least, my friend just told me this trick the other day) on it, the wax will melt and run down the threads and should make it a little easier to budge the bolt(s)
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Old 04-06-2009, 06:22 PM
  #12  
PunchRacing
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took 4 sockets, a 2 foot breaker bar and every muscle in my back being stretched but finally got them off...

now to the next step... looking for heads/intake/ exhaust. looking to find some cheap heads and good intake now, long tubes will wait until after i get it inspected. any ideas?

im talking to a friend in north carolina to try and get some hooters pro cup race heads and exhaust. im going to have long tubes with no cat and have the exhaust exit on the passenger side in front of the rear tire. if i cant get the pro cup heads/intake ill be open to just about any ideas. i did find an edelbrock intake on craigslist that i will be picking up wednes but i would prefer to find a matching set of heads/intake/exhaust and resell that edelbrock intake. im not trying to get alot of hp or a certain time at the track, just want something fun to play on the street and ill probably take it to the track once just to see what i can get. any ideas on affordability?
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Old 04-08-2009, 02:53 PM
  #13  
PunchRacing
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ok so this is the setup as of right now

DOOE-C heads - $175
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake - $100
Edelbrock 650cfm double pumper - $50
Long tube headers - $125

new push rods, maybe lifters, gaskets, etc - $150

total $600 not bad for a decent motor.

now all i need to do is get a 14" air filter and cut a huge whole in my hood
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Old 04-11-2009, 10:55 AM
  #14  
gtmustang1090
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yeah head bolts are a bitch man.. i know everytime i do it i think i break the ****ing things when they come loose because they make almost a snapping sound i have broken a few i had a bad torque wrench and it wasnt clicking and i over torqued two head bolts how fun try drilling and tapping one of thoses lol not fun. but yeah you just have to really rip on it dont strip it then your in real bad shape
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Old 04-11-2009, 03:20 PM
  #15  
BlessedHellride
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I wouldn't use heat on them. There is no reason why a 1/2" drive impact won't break those head bolts out. I tore a 351 down a few months ago and had zero trouble with the bolts.
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Old 04-12-2009, 12:07 AM
  #16  
PunchRacing
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impact wouldnt work. didnt do a thing. i did eventually get them off though. now its just on to putting everything back together and replacing all the little things
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Old 04-13-2009, 03:39 AM
  #17  
PunchRacing
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ok now im just waiting for the heads in the mail. start bolting everything together. use the rod checker(had a bent rod and going on the safe side). get my new rods, put intake and carb on... going to hole saw my hood and then shave it with a die grinder/dremel to get a good shape. 14" air filter with a 14 1/2" hole(my version of a shaker hood)... then get it to pass inspection. THEN put on long tubes with custom exhaust.

then the fun begins because i buy a new 351 and start from the ground up while doing the suspension and gearing mods to the body while i drive it occasionally
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Old 04-14-2009, 04:36 PM
  #18  
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Make sure you're right on with the pushrod measurements, that's extremely important. Not to mention you might not make the full power potential of your motor if they aren't measured properly.
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