4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

supppercharged.

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Old Apr 4, 2006 | 08:17 PM
  #21  
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Default RE: supppercharged.

the cobras are twin screw stock or what? bam bam and also..

i have a cai on there.. so i wouldnt need that with a kb? what other parts would i need to order if purchasing a kb.
Old Apr 4, 2006 | 08:21 PM
  #22  
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yeah but to go at ure bottem end isnt that like spending an extra 4 grand on top of that kb?
i think 450 hp is sufficent and i could push that out of a normal 4.6l v8 with a 1.7l kb? true?
Old Apr 4, 2006 | 08:28 PM
  #23  
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Default RE: supppercharged.


ORIGINAL: mself52

procharger is cheap and come intercooled and makes good numbers on stock motors without blowing **** up....most the cars at my track with s/c are using prochargers... i like how much quieter they are so ppl dont know right away your blown..... katrina sucked lost my job at grand casino gulfport and my house on front beach gulfport... but what can i say **** happens..
a buddy of mine has his v6 procharged and intercooled at 11psi and it makes a crapload of noise, its almost a whistling noise when hes slowly accellerating
Old Apr 4, 2006 | 08:59 PM
  #24  
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Default RE: supppercharged.

ORIGINAL: Birdieman4

This is the **** I was trying to get rid of on this site with my street video. I will race ANY comparable setup GT with a 1.7L stoplight to stoplight with the vortech. Yes, you do not make 10,000,000 RWTQ at 8 RPMs with the vortech kits. However, as the video showed, you stay out of your powerband for about .1 seconds of every race.


The KBs, espcially the 1.7Ls, get EATEN by vortech cars. I have never seen a 1.7L car with comparable mods to mine run or dyno like mine did. I have also never seen a stock shortblock KB car run anything close to a 11.90 on street tires.

Also, my kit is NON intercooled. There is a intercooled guy on here with stock motor making 440 RWHP, hell I don't think he even has camshafts.

The KB kits are a waste of money on a 2v IMO. Why spend all of that extra cash for a slower less streetable car??? if you really have that much cash and want to spend it all get a set of blower cams with your vortech install and really make some power. The non intercooled vortech kit with blower cams should make 430~ rwhp easy on a dynojet with the stock bottom end, no intercooler.

Edit: Also, your engine will not survive 700 RWHP with just a bottom end swap. you will need a new block as well, the blocks seem to give up around 550~ rwhp. Several companys are selling stronger blocks now to give you the option of making more. You would of course need ported heads and blower cams at that point, but you already alluded to that.
...This is a pretty one sided response. First of all, I have seen several 1.7 kb cars run well into the 11's. As a matter of fact, there is a guy on this site who recently posted a high 10 sec run on a 3v block. It is VERY obvious that you have never owned or driven a twin screw setup. If you really think that comparable vortec setups will EAT a comparable kb setup, you don't get out enough to the track. Yes, centrifugal setups shine their best at the track, but screw set ups are phenominal for the street. Do not underestimate a properly set up screw car.
One thing I enjoy doing while traveling around race to race, is check out all the different mustang setups at the track. I have seen literally thousands of blown mustangs, and watched them run. -And i'm tellin ya that a properly set up screw car is not to be underestimated.
if you really have that much cash and want to spend it all get a set of blower cams with your vortech install and really make some power.
Why would he want to do a cam swap if he wants to keep his hp in the safe range? He could just run more boost. The cam swap would be a waste of $ for him. (especially if he's on a budget)
I have never seen a 1.7L car with comparable mods to mine run or dyno like mine did. I have also never seen a stock shortblock KB car run anything close to a 11.90 on street tires.
This statement shows us that you have very little experience at the track. Guys are doing it left and right, all over the country.
I am speaking on this topic from personal experience. I have oned and tuned both twin screw setups and centrifugal setups. Having had experience with both, for a street setup, you can't beat a twin screw product. Centrifugal blowers do their best work at the track. Screws shine their best on the street, not the other way around.
Why spend all of that extra cash for a slower less streetable car?
Comments like this show your lack of experience with screw cars.


Show me ONE video of a full weight 1.7L KB 2v car on a stock bottom end and stock heads run a 11.90 on nittos or a comparable tire (1.85~ 60') I have never seen any video on the net or anyone around here come close to a 11.90 with this type of setup.

The twin screw cars are less streetable IMO because they get worse gas milage, and develop boost almost all the time. I can literally run around all day without ever seeing any boost. My grandmother could drive my car if she could drive a stick. Hell, I get 1.5 MPG MORE with the blower on the highway than I did before it!!. Every time you drive a twin screw you are in boost.

No matter what the RWHP, the 2v cars will not survive long on more than 10 PSI. The blower cams allow you to make more horsepower on the same PSI. I am making 420~ RWHP with N/A cams, and I see about 9 PSI at my shift point (it will nudge 10 PSI at the limiter) I have not seen many non intercooled cars running 9 PSI making this RWHP number with stock camshafts. Not to mention that blower cams would be making even more. MPH has a blower cam/bolton car with stock heads making 440 SAFE rwhp.

I am just not a believer in the 1.7L kits. All told they are more expensive and slower in the 1/4 mile. Not to mention that they are not capable of the 650~ rwhp the S trim is.

I could be totally off base here, but it just seems like a awful lot of money to spend for less performance.

Edit: Dvs, no you will not make 450 RWHP with the 1.7L kit and nothing else. In fact, no matter what the blower to make 450 RWHP on a honest dyno you will need to replace the rotating assembly. 450 RWHP might be possible for a short while, but your gonna end up with something sticking thru the block.

2nd edit: Bam bam, yes I have 3.73s, but you are not gonna leave the gears on a KB stock either. No matter the supercharger you are gonna want a set of 3.73s at least. The 3.27s stockers are just too doggy.
Old Apr 4, 2006 | 09:05 PM
  #25  
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Default RE: supppercharged.

if you only drive on the street i would say get kenne bell if you go to track and drive on street get vortec.
Old Apr 4, 2006 | 09:16 PM
  #26  
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Default RE: supppercharged.

BTW I am not saying that KB are useless or are not fast etc. But for a person on a budget, someone that has to save money to get there mods, it just doesn't seem to make much since.

Everyone just seems to think that the vortech cars are doggy on the street or something, and nothing could be farther from the truth.
Old Apr 4, 2006 | 09:38 PM
  #27  
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Default RE: supppercharged.

there not doggy.. kb just makes boost faster...
Old Apr 4, 2006 | 09:40 PM
  #28  
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Default RE: supppercharged.

would i notice a huge difference between a 1.7 kb and a vortech or no?
Old Apr 4, 2006 | 09:45 PM
  #29  
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Default RE: supppercharged.


ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6

Show me ONE video of a full weight 1.7L KB 2v car on a stock bottom end and stock heads run a 11.90 on nittos or a comparable tire (1.85~ 60') I have never seen any video on the net or anyone around here come close to a 11.90 with this type of setup.

The twin screw cars are less streetable IMO because they get worse gas milage, and develop boost almost all the time. I can literally run around all day without ever seeing any boost. My grandmother could drive my car if she could drive a stick. Hell, I get 1.5 MPG MORE with the blower on the highway than I did before it!!. Every time you drive a twin screw you are in boost.

No matter what the RWHP, the 2v cars will not survive long on more than 10 PSI. The blower cams allow you to make more horsepower on the same PSI. I am making 420~ RWHP with N/A cams, and I see about 9 PSI at my shift point (it will nudge 10 PSI at the limiter) I have not seen many non intercooled cars running 9 PSI making this RWHP number with stock camshafts. Not to mention that blower cams would be making even more. MPH has a blower cam/bolton car with stock heads making 440 SAFE rwhp.

I am just not a believer in the 1.7L kits. All told they are more expensive and slower in the 1/4 mile. Not to mention that they are not capable of the 650~ rwhp the S trim is.

I could be totally off base here, but it just seems like a awful lot of money to spend for less performance.

Edit: Dvs, no you will not make 450 RWHP with the 1.7L kit and nothing else. In fact, no matter what the blower to make 450 RWHP on a honest dyno you will need to replace the rotating assembly. 450 RWHP might be possible for a short while, but your gonna end up with something sticking thru the block.

2nd edit: Bam bam, yes I have 3.73s, but you are not gonna leave the gears on a KB stock either. No matter the supercharger you are gonna want a set of 3.73s at least. The 3.27s stockers are just too doggy.
How about you just find a 1.7 kb and see if your set up will run the 11.90. To match all the mods on your car and just change the blower will be very hard. It's almost retarded to say "show me" that.

Also you wont see 20+rwhp with blower cams over your n/a cams.
Old Apr 4, 2006 | 09:50 PM
  #30  
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Default RE: supppercharged.


ORIGINAL: dvs_03gt

would i notice a huge difference between a 1.7 kb and a vortech or no?
its pretty safe to say that either will leave you with a big ol smile



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