supppercharged.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 12,575
From: United States
RE: supppercharged.
ORIGINAL: Matts00GT
How about you just find a 1.7 kb and see if your set up will run the 11.90. To match all the mods on your car and just change the blower will be very hard. It's almost retarded to say "show me" that.
Also you wont see 20+rwhp with blower cams over your n/a cams.
ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6
Show me ONE video of a full weight 1.7L KB 2v car on a stock bottom end and stock heads run a 11.90 on nittos or a comparable tire (1.85~ 60') I have never seen any video on the net or anyone around here come close to a 11.90 with this type of setup.
The twin screw cars are less streetable IMO because they get worse gas milage, and develop boost almost all the time. I can literally run around all day without ever seeing any boost. My grandmother could drive my car if she could drive a stick. Hell, I get 1.5 MPG MORE with the blower on the highway than I did before it!!. Every time you drive a twin screw you are in boost.
No matter what the RWHP, the 2v cars will not survive long on more than 10 PSI. The blower cams allow you to make more horsepower on the same PSI. I am making 420~ RWHP with N/A cams, and I see about 9 PSI at my shift point (it will nudge 10 PSI at the limiter) I have not seen many non intercooled cars running 9 PSI making this RWHP number with stock camshafts. Not to mention that blower cams would be making even more. MPH has a blower cam/bolton car with stock heads making 440 SAFE rwhp.
I am just not a believer in the 1.7L kits. All told they are more expensive and slower in the 1/4 mile. Not to mention that they are not capable of the 650~ rwhp the S trim is.
I could be totally off base here, but it just seems like a awful lot of money to spend for less performance.
Edit: Dvs, no you will not make 450 RWHP with the 1.7L kit and nothing else. In fact, no matter what the blower to make 450 RWHP on a honest dyno you will need to replace the rotating assembly. 450 RWHP might be possible for a short while, but your gonna end up with something sticking thru the block.
2nd edit: Bam bam, yes I have 3.73s, but you are not gonna leave the gears on a KB stock either. No matter the supercharger you are gonna want a set of 3.73s at least. The 3.27s stockers are just too doggy.
Show me ONE video of a full weight 1.7L KB 2v car on a stock bottom end and stock heads run a 11.90 on nittos or a comparable tire (1.85~ 60') I have never seen any video on the net or anyone around here come close to a 11.90 with this type of setup.
The twin screw cars are less streetable IMO because they get worse gas milage, and develop boost almost all the time. I can literally run around all day without ever seeing any boost. My grandmother could drive my car if she could drive a stick. Hell, I get 1.5 MPG MORE with the blower on the highway than I did before it!!. Every time you drive a twin screw you are in boost.
No matter what the RWHP, the 2v cars will not survive long on more than 10 PSI. The blower cams allow you to make more horsepower on the same PSI. I am making 420~ RWHP with N/A cams, and I see about 9 PSI at my shift point (it will nudge 10 PSI at the limiter) I have not seen many non intercooled cars running 9 PSI making this RWHP number with stock camshafts. Not to mention that blower cams would be making even more. MPH has a blower cam/bolton car with stock heads making 440 SAFE rwhp.
I am just not a believer in the 1.7L kits. All told they are more expensive and slower in the 1/4 mile. Not to mention that they are not capable of the 650~ rwhp the S trim is.
I could be totally off base here, but it just seems like a awful lot of money to spend for less performance.
Edit: Dvs, no you will not make 450 RWHP with the 1.7L kit and nothing else. In fact, no matter what the blower to make 450 RWHP on a honest dyno you will need to replace the rotating assembly. 450 RWHP might be possible for a short while, but your gonna end up with something sticking thru the block.
2nd edit: Bam bam, yes I have 3.73s, but you are not gonna leave the gears on a KB stock either. No matter the supercharger you are gonna want a set of 3.73s at least. The 3.27s stockers are just too doggy.
Also you wont see 20+rwhp with blower cams over your n/a cams.
Its not "retarded" to say show me that. I don't care if the car has the exact mods, lets just see a full weight 1.7L 2v car run an 11.90 on nitto style tires, with no headwork and no bottom end.
BTW this is not even my time, as the car has not been to the track yet. This is MDvaldostas time, and he has the exact same mods, except stage 1 cams, and he made a little less RWHP.
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,375
From: Orange County, California
RE: supppercharged.
the top mount style build boost almost instantly and drop off a little in the last 1000 RPM. vortech starts building at like 3k and builds more and more the higher you go in rpm. thus it just keeps pulling harder and harder. that's the feeling i want!
5th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,375
From: Orange County, California
RE: supppercharged.
ORIGINAL: dvs_03gt
nice.. with the kb it makes that spinning sound.. the vortech whats it make more of a whistle?
on the 03-04 cobras there eatons right? thats twinscrew?
nice.. with the kb it makes that spinning sound.. the vortech whats it make more of a whistle?
on the 03-04 cobras there eatons right? thats twinscrew?
KB makes a whining sound like the Eatons do. Centrifugals (vortech, procharger, etc) make a whistle sound.
6th Gear Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 12,575
From: United States
RE: supppercharged.
ORIGINAL: dvs_03gt
thats his time with the same set up you have?
so get me filled on this.
the vortech pulls just as hard as the 1.7 kb w/ just a little delay?
thats his time with the same set up you have?
so get me filled on this.
the vortech pulls just as hard as the 1.7 kb w/ just a little delay?
The eaton/twinscrew will make more power down low. It builds boost down low so you can start off at a lower RPM and pull, but I don't know why you would want to race like that. It is probably nice on the street just screwing around though. Racing wise you would still downshift the KB car and start off in higher RPM.
