FLMustangMan

So I have a few questions about pulling my motor and I cant find much on actually pulling the motor so any and all info is appreaciated. I plan on pulling the motor with the transmission(Manual) together so I can do some cleaning and inspecting. I also need to change out the Oil Pan gasket and Rear Main seal. I've already removed the Intake with top accessories still attached, the Alternator and bracket, the Radiator w/ fan and overflow tank, my Procharger and air tubes.

Tomarrow I will remove the LT headers, Hi-Flow Cats, X-Pipe, Starter, detach AC Compressor and detach P.S. Pump from the block and strap both to the sides outta the way, remove engine mounts, Trans Cross Member, Drive Shaft and all connections/sensors.

Questions:
I'm sure I have to remove the Shifter but am not sure all thats invoved to be able to get transmission out? And what about the clutch cable? easy?

I know when pulling the motor the front Alternator bolt holes hold the front part of the chain but where do you connect the rear part of the chains? the top bolt hole on the inside rear of each head? (I know you use bolts to connect the chains to just need to know what bolts holes)

Is there anything that I might be missing at all? Even something that might be simple that I might have overlooked?

Thanks

uberstang1

When I pulled my GT motor out i had the picker hooked to a front timing cover bolt and then to a plenum bolt... lol i know. Now i didn't try pulling it with the tranny though. As far as dropping the tranny you gotta drop the starter, driveshaft, shifter, unplug sensors, clutch cable, remove the bellhousing to engine bolts, then drop the cross member and drop her out.
Taking the clutch cable off is easy just removed the dust cover off the tranny and stick a prybar in there and press in the clutch fork and just slide the cable out of fork.
PS: If you still need the plastic intake manifold i do not recommend trying to hook the cherry pickter to a plenum bolt cause the plastic intake manifold may crack, mine didn't but i didn't care anyway was doin a motor swap.

JC316

I hook the chain up to the 18mm timing cover bolt on the drivers side, then there is a threaded hole back on the passenger side head that I attached a hook to. Did perfect.

You can see the hooks here. Look behind the TB and you can see the other hook on the back of the head.

FLMustangMan

Thanks guys for the pics. JC thats jut what I was thinking about attaching the bolts-in the rear threads of the heads. Just wondering if you remember the size of the bolt for that thread. I can figure it out but this would save alittle time. Oh and I like the write-up. Really good. Im sure you get bugged about it alot but did you ever get a tune on it? What were the numbers and what kind times did you put down at the track if you've had a chance? oh I never saw in your write up but did your cobra exhaust manifolds bolt right up to your exhaust system? For instance did you have stock gt h-pipe or what cause I have a Full SLP system with LTs and I know i'd have to get cobra ones if i did the swap. Thanks.

Uberstang, since you have a procharger on your 4v swap, i got a question for you. I see yours is the p600 one but is your mounting bracket the same as my PSC1? If so did you reuse your gt mounting bracket or did you have to get a cobra one? or did you not get the s.c. till after the swap? thanks

JC316

I am pretty sure that I used an alternator bolt on it, that or it's the same size as the timing cover. Been a while since I pulled it. Never did get a tune or a dyno run however I did help a guy out with his and he did take it to the dyno. Put down 276HP and 288ftlbs of torque with a stock engine, EGR delete, ORX pipe and Flowmasters.

The Cobra manifolds bolted right up to the GT exhaust, no issues at all.

uberstang1

Well I supercharged after i did the motor swap, the kit i got was for a 96-98 cobra im not 100% sure but i think the gt and cobra have two different mounting brackets. And a p1sc will attach to my bracket, I have one sitting in my garage now i plan on sending for a d1sc upgrade but wont be needed till i get a new shortblock because the p600b has me sittin at 434 rwhp now after i did the longtubes this winter.

02WhiteGTVert

When i pulled the motor out of my ex wife's 96 i pulled it (and put it back in) with the T45 and long tubes still attached. Pulled it through the top, lifted the car as high as we could, and just worked with it inch by inch. and it IS possible to reinstall with the LT's still attached, just takes alot of careful tilting with the engine.