Thats the entire point, there is a point to using a stage 2 cam... it will make more power than a stage 1.

stock heads or not, shortblock or not, the stage 2 cam will make more peak and redline power, and it will make the peak power later in the band. Thats the biggest problem with the stock 2v cams... they fall off around 5500 RPM. My car pulled right to redline with the stage 2s... I picked up 30 WHP at redline and about 20 WHP at peak (5500ish) with the stage 2s. From 5500 to 6000 I lost about 3 whp... compared to 30+ before the swap.

The reason you can't get the "full" potential from a stage 2 cam isn't the head flow... its the RPM limit of the stock motor. The more agressive cam, the more it likes to rev, and you have a upper limit of around 6000-6200 RPM on a stock 2v rotating assembly.

As stated however, the differences in the two cams are so small that almost nobody could acutally spot them on a dyno. Were talking 3-5 WHP differences at any point here.. nothing signficant.

Look at the difference between the 2 and 1... its a very small difference cam spec wise:

.560/.575 lift 225/235 .050 duration, 108 LSA
540/550 lift 224/226 duration, 110 LSA

Were just making a mountain out of a molehill here. If you want a little more agressive idle and don't mind giving up a few FT/LBs on the low side get a stage 2. If you want every bit of TQ you can get plus a nice upgrade up top get the stage 1s.

I have a hunderd dollar bill that says that nobody could acutally get in a car, and without hearing the idle tell me just by accelration if it was a stage1 or 2 cam. Like I said, 3, maybe 5 whp difference at any point in the band... you cannot detect that on your butt dyno.

 

Wow lots of opinions here! I was just at www.patriotperformance.com they have nice set up's but I dont see anything flowing more than 233cfm. What would happen if I got there stage III heads on my stock block keep in mind I'm ordering a PI intake would it be worthless with stock rotating assembly? Should I stick with stage I or II? I would get heads fully assembled with adjustable cam gears the whole nine yards. Eventually I will be building the bottom end to handle20+ psi from twin turbo so I dont want to increase my comp. to much

 

its safe to run vt stage 2, you just wont see their full potential without headwork

comp stage 2(270's) might give you ptv issues

 

Correct me if I'm wrong here, I don't want to misunderstand you. You are now saying that something works good/ great because it fits? Did the stock PI intake not fit??
BTW I'm not grumpy, I enjoy a good debate like everyone else. You just seem to be the one that gets so defensive when someone doesn't agree w/ you. I know I'm not always right, maybe that comes with age and if someone doesn't agree w/ me, it's okay. I have peoples respect, maybe not yours but I won't loose any sleep over that.
I never said that you don't know anything, what I said was...
So much for that being your final statement.

 

you are correct, you can run stage 2's without head work but won't see their full potential. I've heard of people running comp 270's without PTV issues, I'm assuming they degreed them it properly. I may be wrong but I belive that comp grinds have a 5* advance.

 

I love a good debate too. Thats why im on here so much. But i get defensive when someone calls me a little bitch and an @$$ hole.. . . like you did. So can we agree to disagree? I dont need to convince you to get the typhoon manifold. I couldn't care less what you run. You can say you hate it and its the worst thing in the world. But i will disagree with you. I have had nothing but good experiences with it. Im sorry if you've had otherwise but i dont want you convincing someone that its a piece of crap and they shouldnt get it when i've had no problems with it. Just give your opinion and move on. Thats how it works man.

 

I'm sorry for the name calling, I was wrong. And yes we can agree to disagree.

 

I disagree. lol. With a good tune you can see a lot more of a difference between stage 1 and 2's. But thats also not fair becuase stage 2's are MEANT for ported heads. I know you strongly disgree with me and Mitch and Scott at VT becuase by some reason you know more than all of us combined including the guys that make em but thats fine thats your opinion. Put stage 1 and 2 cams on STOCK heads and yeah you wont see that much of a difference. Put stage 1 and 2 cams in aftermarket stage 2 or 3 heads and you'll see a very big difference. Idk its like putting headers on a car and leaving the rest of the exhaust stock. Yeah sure you can do it no problem! But aren't you meant to do the rest of the exhaust too for full potential and if you call any exhaust shop wont they tell you that you should replace the mid pipe and cat back as well?

 

Ok well there we go lol. So wait not to jack the thread but wasnt it you that said you had trouble with N20 on the typhoon . . .becuase i've run it so far with no problems. . .but here soon im gonna be getting a 150 or 200 shot and i want to forsee any problems that i have. .. . . And your experience here would be appreciated

 

no I think you misunderstood what I said in the Typhoon thread. I have NEVER used the Typhoon, I was saying that I had learned from others mistakes which to me is better than making my own mistake. But what I think you are referring to was reply #7, that was a quote that I had taken from the link I posted about someone else who lost 40hp. I know that most people go with an aluminum intake because of fear of a nitrous backfire, but I have seen a nitrous backfire take out an aluminum intake and it wasn't pretty. I'd say the damage was worse that it would have been if it would have been a plastic intake.