Break in procedures found on another site.

"Drive normally. You should be alright gassing the petal a little bit, just put any extreme stress on the differential until the 500 break-in period has expired.

Make sure you set your Trip meter after your install, so you know when the 500 mile mark comes. When it does, change the gear oil. You should take notice of any metal shavings and debris in the gear oil. If anything seems a bit excessive then closely examine the (with gear marking compound) gears and make sure they are meshing properly. You never know, you might have gotten some debris in the shims and gotten a false preload setting?"

I have also read drive it for three 30 min time intervals, and let cool down for an hr in between each.



Thanks

 

Getting the gears installed right this moment, and the shop isn't aware of any breakin procedures needed. I'll still go easy on them for a couple of miles and then get on em.
Thoughts?

 

After install went into the Axel parameter and was going to set it to 4.1 per the manuel, but only saw 4.09. Went ahead and used it and everything seems to be working well. Anyone else with the Predator Tuner seen this?


Nevermind, went back in the thread, and MusicCity already answered it. 4.09 setting !

Just seemed odd, on how the manuel, states select 4.1, when its not available to choose in the settings.


Thanks

 

OK, I am withdrawing SOME of my praise for 4.10 gears. I just got back from a night of test and tune at Bristol Dragway, in Tennesssee, and the 4.10 gears did not change a thing on my times. I ran the EXACT same time and speed with the gears as I ran with the 3.55 gears. It may be that I have sort of ran over to the other side of the bell curve. With the 3.55 gear, I was just running out of 3rd gear, and needing the very first part of 4th, now I am just winding up 4th at the end of the quarter mile(5900 rpms), but My times and my speed are identical to what they were before the gear change. It might make more of a difference on a naturally aspirated motor, but i dont see the point on a supercharged car. Unless you go a lot further with it than I have. My 60' times are consistent before and after the gear change, too. I didnt really spin that much, got good burnouts, and didnt bog or spin with the takoffs(which should be reflected in the fact that I had 5 runs, all the same). I kind of wish now that I had went with a 3.90 or maybe the 3.73 gear. I think it might have been just enough of a tweak to the system to improve my times.

On the other hand, it is still a lot of fun on the street.

 

Wait a second. If you're running the exact same times, but you swapped to the 4.10....Somethings not right. Let's see your whole slip, that doesn't make sense. Especially with a super charger.

You may need to get it on a dyno and see where the power is peaking at, and then maybe adjust your shift points.

 

-------5:38 pm---6:26 pm -----7:14 pm-----8:01 pm-----9:15 pm----MARCH 10th (Factory gears, but with supercharger)
60'----2.154------2.010---------1.910--------1.895---------1.886-------1.993
330 --5.887-------5.657---------5.785--------5.616---------5.587-------5.721
1/8---8.943-------8.859---------8.697--------8.664---------8.607--------8.801
MPH--81.57-------81.08---------81.54--------81.53---------81.42--------80.97
1000-11.561------11.496-------11.308-------11.281--------11.224------11.370
1/4---13.741------13.498-------13.488-------13.467--------13.414------13.540
MPH--103.83-----102.45---------103.75------103.44--------103.30------103.30

Last year, before the S/C, before the gears, with a cold air kit, axle backs, and a Diablo tune , my very best time was 14.079 at 99.02 mph, 60' time 2.104


I know it will not run as fast as all the sea level cars, noone does at Bristol. some 3000 feet above sea level, uphill etc. there is a 1/2 second difference at least. I run as well or better than the best COBRAS do here, and we arent far off on HP, though I havent been Dyno'ed (estimate). B ut I dont understand why the gear didnt make a difference. The first 5 columns are with the 4.10 and the last column is without it. I have added an adjustable rear upper control arm, and steeda rear LCA's, along with the gear, but did not have much spin at all. In fact, I spun more without the gear and the suspension upgrade. I hit the rev limiter on the march 10 run, but never touched it on the five runs last night. I have a shift light set at 5900 rpms, and it lit every time, but I never hit the limiter, so i am shifting between 5900 and 6250

 

Lucy2005 --

i don't understand your statement "On the other hand, it is still a lot of fun on the street"

if the 1/4 times are the same, then wasn't the 3.55 stock gears "...just as much fun on the street?"

also the chart is confusing, it implies the 3.55 gears were in the car. evidently u were editing as i was typing...chart makes sense now.


then again... the whole problem may simply be due to the lack of aluminum foil around the CAI....

[IMG]local://upfiles/31840/DD2538DD3BC94111935AFF1A388F5D08.jpg[/IMG]

 

Hey Lucy, did you notice maybe if your shorter 1st gear had anything to do with your times not improving? Seems like with the forced induction and 4.10's that you would have to get out of 1st gear much sooner on a 1/4 mile run. I could be wrong...I'm just wondering.
I've just always been of the mind that 4.10's with forced induction might actually slow your 1/4 times down a bit....unless you have the right shifter, tire, and suspension setups to take advantage of it.

 

First of all, let me say that I saw a guy with a sweet pinto that was using aluminum foil to make a carburetor seal around his upen induction,- but just untill he could get the correct part!

It is a lot of fun on the street because the car really lurches forward, especially at lower speeds. and, sometimes I have been known to "make" the tires spin, and it does it in a very impressive fashion with the 4.10's.

 

Yes, this is what I think may be part of the problem. I dont get excessive spin in first gear, if I leave at the correct RPM's, but it is very short, till I have to shift to 2nd.
I am a pretty quick shift, but you still have some fraction of a second you arent getting power to the wheels.while shifting. I dont really have an "extra"shift, but the shift comes when I am running at a much lower speed with the 4.10s than it did with the 3.55's That may be a portion of the difference.( I am " Coasting" while shifting at 40 mph, instrad of "coasting" while shifting at 60 mph, etc. etc.) I wish someone with, say, 3.90 gears could post a detailed breakdown of quartermile times before and after the gear change, so I could study it. There are some "practical" things in the actual numbers that dont show up in arithmetic "calculations". Im going to play with the 4.10s for a while longer, but If this is what I will have I may need to go to 3.73 or 3.90, or even back to stock before the summer is over. I wish you could just pull the "chunk" on the 8.8 rear end like you can in a 9 inch! Id just set up a couple different gears.

Finally, if anyone has any insight into where "driver error" might be a problem, I welcome the criticism. My shifts are fairly fast, I launch at 3k, dumping the clutch, and get the slightsest spin. Any less, and I bog, any more, and I smoke tires. I run BFG drag radials, and they are finally hooking up well, and I run them at 12 lbs and heat them well, without going through the water box, before leaving. They are smaller in overall circumfrence than the street tires, which is "some" difference, but not a difference between the Mar 10 run and the April 14 runs, because I ran the same tires both times.