UPRSharad

I don't mind at all. It's good of you to ask! I heard that one of the co-owners of J&M left Maximum Motorsports to found J&M and that he used their poly-ball bushing design on the J&M parts. The poly-ball bushings do have a theoretical advantage in terms of reducing bind when the rear axle twists, but in practice, we haven't had any trouble with bind on our control arms. On the other hand, I've been seeing a lot of complaints about knocking noises in the rear end with J&M control arms. Could be installer error, who knows? All I know is that I spend about four hours a day on the Mustang forums, and I've seen several different people complaining about noises in their rear suspension with J&M arms.

Our control arms are tig welded right here in South Florida using American chrome-moly and custom designed Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings, and they have a lifetime guarantee!


Obviously, "real street monster" is subjective... but at UPR Products, our 3V GT demo vehicle could be considered a Dr. Jekyll & Mr. Hyde monster. If you drive it around and keep your foot out of the throttle, it's a nice tame street car that can be driven cross-country with the A/C on and the music blasting. But when you drop the hammer, it runs 10.17 @ 140 on street tires!! Basically, it's a JDM shortblock, Roush blower, UPR Products suspension, and sticky tires. A low 10 second car is usually more than enough to destroy the Fast and the Furious from light-to-light. If that's what you're looking for, we can help you get there. (and even faster if you'd like!)

That's right!!


No problem. I'm happy to help, anytime!

Blacksmoke

Complete suspension upgrade with a good set of rubber will definitely get the power to the road for ya.

stealth_GT

what kind of transmission do you guys run exclusively? built autos or manuals?

You just described my dream car! lol.. I want to be trapping 146+ though

hollywub

I just set up my reat with Steeda Billet LCA's, UPR LCA Relocation Brackets, UPR Adj UCA and Bracket, Adj Panhard, H&R Race springs and Tokica Adjustables.

I have the LCA's at a perfect 0 degrees. Pinion angle at 1.8 with the 1 piece driveshaft. No wheel hop ever now. No more lag or slop from tranny to rear. I hit the gas low rpms rolling in gear, no bang!

The tokicos are set middle, a little stiiffer on the right side, 1/2 turn.

The car def puts more rubber to the ground straight line and cornering now.

Thats the best I am going to get this car. Never gonna run slicks...

grandpajay

I've looked a little more into upper and lower control arms and I've been that they cushion your suspension system? am I reading this right? does that mean they they literally control things like your sway bars or something? a little insight would be apperciated before I drop $350 into U/Lca's and a panhard bar ;-) (btw I'm starting to lean towards a full suspension upgrade minus the shocks... already have those in!

UPRSharad

Hehehe... yeah, the car is a riot. Here's a video of my boss and I taking it through the dunkin' donuts drivethrough one day:

http://www.youtube.com/user/sraldiris#p/u/5/iYa0LnbjTyc

Here's a pic:



This one has the factory 5r55 automatic, but we use autos and manuals in our cars. Also, we recently installed an IW 15% overdriven crank pulley and the car picked up over 40hp. We'll be shooting for better ETs & MPH.



I'm not exactly sure what you're asking.

The factory control arms work poorly for two reasons. Their bushings are way too soft, so they have a lot of flex, making the suspension movement sloppy and unpredictable. They're also made of stamped steel, which is also prone to flexing, and general nastiness. Our control arms eliminate the slop in the suspension, letting it work as it should.

Here is the rear suspension on our 10-second 3V GT:

Diabolical!

If you want to put the power to the ground, here's the setup I'd recommend for you (the only difference between this and my track setup is the tire recommendation):

15x8" rear wheels with 275/50/15 drag slicks of your choice (I like M/T and Hoosier)
15x3.75" front wheels with 26" tall skinny tire of your choice (I run M/T)
QA1 Single adjustable rear shocks (set 5 clicks from full firm)
Strange adjustable front struts (set full loose)
UPR rod end LCAs (I set mine to factory length)
Eibach Drag springs w/ drag bag (12psi)

I have many, MANY more mods than this, but these are the mods that best helped me plant the power to the ground.

Ricardo

If I may add to UPRSharad's discussion of J&M LCA's...

I ordered the poly-ball ones from AM and they clunked tremendously when I first put them in. Every bump and throttle adjustment would pull a clunk out of the rear end...
It's been 3 months now and the clunking is completely gone.

My guess is they just had to be worn in maybe?

Now that problem has disapeared, I can say that LCA's do make a big difference in keeping the rear end in line and stop heel hop.

UPRSharad

^^very solid advice here. And thanks for recommending UPR Products!

Diabolical!

Any time. If it doesn't work, I don't recommend it. Your LCAs took a lot of slop out of my rear suspension.