vristang

Randomly trying different sample tubes is not a safe idea.

If the C&L site is wrong, and a C&L rep has indicated that you should be using a black tube, then USE the black tube.

You won't magically find more power by randomly picking different calibration tubes.
AND
You could cause some major damage if you hammer the throttle with the wrong sample tube installed.

I recommend installing the black tube and resetting the KAM in the computer.
Then run the car for a couple of days.
If you have any issues during that time, then work the issues.
There are many here that would be glad to help.

I hope I haven't come off as harsh or rude, that is not my intent... HOWEVER ...
I cannot state strongly enough how bad it can be to run the wrong sample tube.




Wish you luck,
jason

Poobs

No problem Jason . I actually agree with you.

I intended to double check all sensor values before I got side tracked with the C&L MAF.
Right now I'm in the process of looking up information on my Haynes manual so I can check to make sure evrything else is ok.

One thing that I'm confused about is the role of the two rear O2 sensors. Can those sensors cause the mixture to go rich ? I have an off road H pipe with mil eleiminators and the CEL is not on

Thanks

vristang

Well, the CEL doesn't come on for every code that comes up. You can get codes, and never see the CEL illuminate.


I'm not real hip to the jive of the newer computers.
However, I think that the second set of O2's are simply there to verify the efficiency of the cats.
Try to verify that info from another source though.

As for checking that the car is in good running order...
Start by pulling your codes from the computer.
This will give you a quick look at how all the sensors are doing.

I try to pull codes at least every oil change, which is probably overkill, but I like to keep an eye on things.

There is a link in my sig that should get you through the code pulling process without a scanner.
Or you can buy scanners at most parts stores for roughly $40 - $500 (yeah there is a wide range of features available).

If you get any codes you will probably get better results in a new thread though.

I think I'm rambling now?

Good Luck Poobs,

jason

Poobs

Thanks man !!!! I appriciate the help.

groundpounder

Jason, you are amazing. I should probably send this to you in a PM, but I'd like the world to know the answer to these questions:

Where did you pick up your knowledge?
Are you an ASE and/or Ford mechanic?
Are you a computer programmer?
How can I learn more tech like yours?

I hate to sound like a gushing schoolgirl or some skank groupie with a man-crush, but we need more like you here (angcobra, PRO50SC come to mind). It would make this site so much better!! If I EVER have a problem, I'm starting with a PM to YOU!
Thanks!

Do us all a favor, though. Don't ever go over to OT and get sucked in.......

vristang

LOL
I get bored in OT areas pretty quick.


In college my Industrial Technology program was with an emphasis on Automotive Design (I planned on working in Detroit, but when you work on cars all day, it is tough to have cars as a hobby. So, I went into aerospace).

In school, we tried to look at all the design factors for all the systems in a car. Sweet program!
The school emphasizes production techniques, but the design process is a major part of the classes.
We were almost forced to work on projects like FormulaSAE, Mini-Baja SAE, and what ever else was being built in the labs.
I spent one summer working on a carbon fiber body for an experimental hybrid (Methane/Electric) car, which could meet crash safety standards.
All crush structures were composite. I think F1 cars are still using Aluminum honeycomb as opposed to composite (carbon or boron?) as the major front crush structure?

Other than that...
I am just some dude that has nothing better to do with his time.
No ASE certs. I would go insane working on other peoples cars.
The only computer programming I have done is VB (excel macros) for work, and C++ about 3yrs ago for school. Not nearly enough to mean anything in the world of the Ford EEC-IV.
I have learned a great deal about the EEC-IV since starting to tune with the tweecer.


If anyone is interested in the Vehicle Research Institute (VRI)...
http://vri.etec.wwu.edu/

The composite Hybrid car...
http://vri.etec.wwu.edu/viking_32_photos.htm


As you can tell I enjoyed college.

Some recommended books for mustang enthusiasts...

EEC-IV Specific
Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control How to Understand, Service and Modify by Probst
If you are serious about taking care of your Mustang yourself this book is a must read, no debate. All of the theory on how the computer works is described in an easy to understand way. The diagnostic sections are worth more than their weight in gold.

The ultimate Ford EEC-IV book is the GUFB document. It describes the programming/calculations Ford used when creating the A9* and X3Z computers. It is about 500 pages of the most intense tech you can imagine. I have only touched on a couple of sections.
You can download it on the 'downloads' page of the tweecer site
http://tweecer.com/downloads.htm

(Also, you can download the tweecer software for free. Just playing with the settings and seeing how they are used can help in understanding the eec).


General Performance

Bosch Automotive Handbook Published by SAE with various authors
Numerous Professional Automotive Engineers write on a variety of topics. If you could only purchase one book I would recommend this one. It covers every automotive system, in theory and application, such as Material Properties, chassis design, and aerodynamics. Some developing technologies as well such as Hybrid powertrains. Mathematical definitions are given as well as written definitions. May only be available from SAE, and they update every couple of years. I think the 6th edition is current.

Four-Stroke Performance Tuning by A. Graham Bell
One of my favorites, I just keep going back to it. I especially like the chapters on cooling/oiling systems and cam design. Formulas are given in many chapters, as the book is intended as a "how to" for the technically knowledgable. Not just theory, but practical application for street and race use. Some chapters are very similar to Bell's Boost book described below, so one or the other may be sufficient.

Performance Tuning in Theory & Practice by A. Graham Bell
I am currently finishing this up. It is an older and out of date version of the book above, but has some detailed info on points distributors and carbs. Very detailed info. You will have to search for it though, I believe the last publishing date was in the '80s.




Well after all that... I bet you are sorry you asked.[&:]

Basically, I just enjoy this stuff way too much.

Dang.... This entire post was completely random [:@]
jason

Poobs

Great stuff !!! - thanks so much. I am going to start with the free downloads and try to get the books later.

I just picked up the Chilton's manual for my 98 last night, So now I have the Hayne's and Chilton. They are both full of stuff that I already know lkie how to check tires

I wen't to school ( among other things ) for Automotive Technology but jumped out of that and went to work in Quality Assurance. The above manuals are used mainly to tell me where things are since I'm prety good at trouble shooting.

You could say that I started getting into cars in the great era of muscle cars but then endured emission laws and the oil shortage destroy american muscle........[:-]

Technology has done a lot for the modern auto as has manufacturing technology. The result has been small multi valved powerfull engines that the average consumet has a very hard time working on and trouble shooting.

Incidentally, my experiment with changing the tube on my C&L MAF caused two codes to come up with the CEL. It is safe to say that the motor is running lean now. That's ok, at least now I have a starting point.

Later guys