'87 Main Seal Replacement
06-27-2007, 03:58 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2007
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Posts: 12
'87 Main Seal Replacement
I know what it typically entails, please God tell me I don't have to take it all apart...all '87s have the single seal, right? So there's no chance I can just swap it, right?
Assuming I have to take it all apart, what can I expect to spend on it? Also, my uncle just rebuilt the entire engine of his 'vette, I figure he should have a relatively easy time helping me swap this out...we'll see, though.
Lastly, how can I check to be certain the leak is coming from the main seal? there is some substantial leakage going on...It seemed to appear out of nowhere! I'm ticked about it, but oh well...
Anyone have a guide or have photo-documentiation to a clean main seal swap? Thanks!
Assuming I have to take it all apart, what can I expect to spend on it? Also, my uncle just rebuilt the entire engine of his 'vette, I figure he should have a relatively easy time helping me swap this out...we'll see, though.
Lastly, how can I check to be certain the leak is coming from the main seal? there is some substantial leakage going on...It seemed to appear out of nowhere! I'm ticked about it, but oh well...
Anyone have a guide or have photo-documentiation to a clean main seal swap? Thanks!
06-27-2007, 05:25 AM
#2
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: PA
Posts: 1,234
RE: '87 Main Seal Replacement
They went to one piece rear main in 83 i think it was. I have no idea on cost or how long it will take.
Clean the oil and gunk from around the back of the oil pan and bell housing and keep checking it. Check behind the intake and the valve covers. Could be leaking oil there to, or any combination of the 3.
Clean the oil and gunk from around the back of the oil pan and bell housing and keep checking it. Check behind the intake and the valve covers. Could be leaking oil there to, or any combination of the 3.
06-27-2007, 11:05 AM
#3
4th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Calif
Posts: 1,926
RE: '87 Main Seal Replacement
Yes you do have the 1 piece rear main.
It depends on which rear main you buy (Rubber, Teflon, or Offset) so figure from $10-$25.
I'd follow what Blckstng93 suggested by checking for possible leaks from the valve cover, PVC location or back of upper intakefirst before I'd think about replacing the rear main.
If you have to change the rear main you'll need to remove your exhaust, your drive shaft. transmission, starter,bell housing, clutch, and pressure plate ,flywheel, and rear cover get to the rear rain.
You can pull your existing rear main by screwing in a couple of screws into the old rear main and pull it out, just make sure you don't score or nick the crank with the screws, or if you can find a rear main puller you can use that.
You'll need to reinstall the rear main by centering it on the crank and gently tap it into place, you've done that then reinstall the rear cover, next you'll need to need to seal the bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank torque those bolts, you'll need a clutch alignment tool (rent or buy) so that you can center the clutch on the crank, install the clutch,then bolt and torque thethe pressure to the to the flywheel, and then put on the bell housing, and then reinstalleverything else.
The bolts to the drive shaft and headers might the rusted into place so don't be surprised.
My guess on time would be to figure all day and you should be safe.
It depends on which rear main you buy (Rubber, Teflon, or Offset) so figure from $10-$25.
I'd follow what Blckstng93 suggested by checking for possible leaks from the valve cover, PVC location or back of upper intakefirst before I'd think about replacing the rear main.
If you have to change the rear main you'll need to remove your exhaust, your drive shaft. transmission, starter,bell housing, clutch, and pressure plate ,flywheel, and rear cover get to the rear rain.
You can pull your existing rear main by screwing in a couple of screws into the old rear main and pull it out, just make sure you don't score or nick the crank with the screws, or if you can find a rear main puller you can use that.
You'll need to reinstall the rear main by centering it on the crank and gently tap it into place, you've done that then reinstall the rear cover, next you'll need to need to seal the bolts that hold the flywheel to the crank torque those bolts, you'll need a clutch alignment tool (rent or buy) so that you can center the clutch on the crank, install the clutch,then bolt and torque thethe pressure to the to the flywheel, and then put on the bell housing, and then reinstalleverything else.
The bolts to the drive shaft and headers might the rusted into place so don't be surprised.
My guess on time would be to figure all day and you should be safe.
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