Leaking master cylinder
08-31-2007, 08:04 AM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Woodstock, GA
Posts: 2,594
Leaking master cylinder
I have a leak coming from the back of my mc, I am going to put 73 mm calipers on it, what is a good donor car to use. I looked at the 86 svo mc and it was the all steel model, what car had an mc that looks more like our mc, plastic on top, metal on the bottom.
Will I need a new booster as well, due to possible fluid leakage in the booster. Thanks for any info.
Will I need a new booster as well, due to possible fluid leakage in the booster. Thanks for any info.
08-31-2007, 08:15 AM
#2
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio USA
Posts: 4,616
RE: Leaking master cylinder
the booster dont leak any fluid
get a new master cylinder, cheap as a used one, for the brake lines you will have to heat the two nuts they screw into and the proper size wrench or vise grips that arent worn out.
the fun part is having an assistant bleed the brakes with you, the reason I say that , is when I went through this, I had the bleeder screws break on both front calipers and both rear cylinders
!
Meaning two new calipers and two new rear wheel cylinder, another $100.
get a new master cylinder, cheap as a used one, for the brake lines you will have to heat the two nuts they screw into and the proper size wrench or vise grips that arent worn out.
the fun part is having an assistant bleed the brakes with you, the reason I say that , is when I went through this, I had the bleeder screws break on both front calipers and both rear cylinders
!Meaning two new calipers and two new rear wheel cylinder, another $100.
08-31-2007, 08:28 AM
#3
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Woodstock, GA
Posts: 2,594
RE: Leaking master cylinder
I planned on getting a new mc, I am just not sure which vehicle to use as far as when I order it, svo, lincoln...etc.
I was just checking on the booster to see if it was possible that the fluid leaked in the booster and ruined it. Time to replace it if I need to.
I have to get new hoses due to dry rot. Are the flexible stainless steel brake hoses really worth the higher prices, andis uthard to get them to seal properly. If they are a p i t a then I will go to the original rubber.
I was just checking on the booster to see if it was possible that the fluid leaked in the booster and ruined it. Time to replace it if I need to.
I have to get new hoses due to dry rot. Are the flexible stainless steel brake hoses really worth the higher prices, andis uthard to get them to seal properly. If they are a p i t a then I will go to the original rubber.
08-31-2007, 08:39 AM
#4
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Ohio USA
Posts: 4,616
RE: Leaking master cylinder
ORIGINAL: tmajikman
I planned on getting a new mc, I am just not sure which vehicle to use as far as when I order it, svo, lincoln...etc.
I was just checking on the booster to see if it was possible that the fluid leaked in the booster and ruined it. Time to replace it if I need to.
I have to get new hoses due to dry rot. Are the flexible stainless steel brake hoses really worth the higher prices, andis uthard to get them to seal properly. If they are a p i t a then I will go to the original rubber.
I planned on getting a new mc, I am just not sure which vehicle to use as far as when I order it, svo, lincoln...etc.
I was just checking on the booster to see if it was possible that the fluid leaked in the booster and ruined it. Time to replace it if I need to.
I have to get new hoses due to dry rot. Are the flexible stainless steel brake hoses really worth the higher prices, andis uthard to get them to seal properly. If they are a p i t a then I will go to the original rubber.
well with bigger calipers, hmmm?[>:]
Fox Body Mustang
Brake Upgrade
by Mike Herceg [align=center]
[ before ] [ after ] [/align]The following is a description of an upgrade I did to the brakes on my 1986 Mustang GT. Here's a quick summary of the results:
[ul][*]upgraded the rotors from 10" diameter to 11" diameter.
[*]upgraded the calipers from 60mm pistons to 73mm pistons.
[*]upgraded the master cylinder from 0.827" bore to 1.125" bore.
[/ul] DISCLAIMER
The work described herein is merely a description of the work I performed on my own vehicle with my own 2 hands in my own garage with my own tools. I am not responsible for any work someone else does on their own vehicle. Enough of that. Now for the good stuff.
BACKGROUND
I bought this car new in 1986. It's a daily driver and I've put over 100,000 miles on it. I don't do roadracing, but in the past 2 years I've made a few trips to the drag track.
The '86 GT has 10" diameter rotors with 60mm brake calipers on the front and the 'Pinto' drum and shoe brakes on the back. While this setup is adequate for normal stopping, I can honestly say that in the 10+ years I've driven this car these brakes did not give me a lot of confidence in a panic-stop situation.
Ford apparently recognized that as well and for the '87- '93 GT's (excluding the '93 Cobra) they upgraded to 11" diameter rotors and 66mm brake calipers while the rear brakes remained unchanged (please note that when I say GT, I also mean 5 liter LX as well). These pieces provide the foundation for my upgrade. I could have spent the $1,100 or so on the Cobra Brake kit from Motorsport (M-2300-K) (plus new 5-lug wheels) but that would be way too much brake and cost for me. If I was hot and heavy into roadracing, then it would be a different story.
INSTRUCTIONS
There are none. I had to make up my own using, copying, and/or modifying the information contained in the references listed below. This stuff was and is invaluable. My thanks again to everyone who contributed info and advice.
PARTS
The following is a list of the parts I purchased. There are many sources for these parts both new and rebuilt. I shopped around.
1. Used spindles and 11" rotors from a 1993 Mustang LX 5.0L. $150 shipped. The '86 spindles and rotors get pitched. The '87-'93 spindles bolt right in with one exception: the strut mounts are thinner than the ones on the '86 spindles. I could either buy new struts for an '87-'93 GT or bolt (2) 1/8" spacers in with my existing struts. I bought new struts since mine were still the original factory units.
2. Rebuilt 73mm loaded pair calipers from a 1986 Lincoln. $125 list, I paid less. RMC part # P143. According to the auto parts store, all the mid-'80s Lincolns use the same calipers. They had the same part number for all of them. These loaded pair calipers came with steel pistons (better than phenolic), semi-metallic pads, crush washers and caliper pins. The pins have hex heads, not the dopey Torx heads.
3. Steeda stainless steel caliper sleeves. $30/set Steeda part # 363-0114. These weren't necessary for the upgrade, I just wanted them.
4. Rebuilt master cylinder from a 1986 Lincoln. $32 list, I paid less. Wagner part # R105806. This is basically the SVO unit. It features a larger bore (1.125" vs 0.827") and steel pistons (again, better than the phenolic).
[left][b]5.[font="arial"][size="2"] New flexible front brake lines for a 1987 Mustang GT. $24/each. Bendix part # 77795 & 77796. The flex lines from the '86 won't work with the new calipers. I pitched them with the rotors and spindles. These new lines are nice. Part of the line is metal and it bends away fro
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