95vertGTS

A few weeks ago, during acceleration into higher RPMs my voltage gauge maxed out, my headlights became spotlights, and my battery light came on. I quickly shutthe car off andpulled over to the side of the road. I unplugged the alternator and drove home. I plugged the alternator back up and ran the car. It was fine. Besides, I had no money to fix the problem anyways.

Skip time to yesterday, I was driving spiritedly and the car did it again. I quickly shut it down and unplugged the alternator to finish my drive. Forgetting to charge my battery, this morning my car wouldn't crank. AH!! Ok, so I was 15 minutes late to school and had to keep the RPMs lower than 1100 rpms for 5 in city miles (stop and go). That wasn't exactly fun, but the torque helped.

I came out to my car after school and the battery was completely dead. Oh well, after waiting for 45 minutes while my buddy made up a test we got my car cranked. Again, had to keep the revs low, except this time sub 1000. Now completely fed up with the problem I've been putting off, I pulled the alternator. Advance auto tested it and said it only put out 9-10 amps and it was defective. I took it home and swapped the plug where the brushes and main plug connector from an extra ford alternator. Put the car back together and cranked it, no luck, immediately sent off the voltage gauge and battery light.

Any ideas, I really can't afford a new/reman alt. price of $120+ but if I have to I can get a loan from my parents.

Dave5point0

Bad diodes inside the alt will do that, it sucks, but get a new one. When my last one went bad my volt gauge was pinned at 18 and my headlights looked like strobe lights

95vertGTS

Second question, are they interchangable between 3.8s and 5.0s?
Thunderchickens and mustangs?
If so, I can pick a used one up for $20-40

mjr46

replace the alt...the internal voltage regulator is probably fubar