track times in..need some advice on these numbers..what do you guys think
#11
RE: what i should do..
what air pressure were you running in the rear tires??? with street tires you should drop the air pressure down to around 20-24 psi in order to get a better hook off the line which will improve the 60' time.
#13
RE: track times in..need some advice on these numbers..what do you guys think
If you can't better your 60' times, the only other way to make up time is in your shifting.
Are you shifting like grandma on her way to church on Sunday?
Are you shifting like grandma on her way to church on Sunday?
#14
RE: track times in..need some advice on these numbers..what do you guys think
Everyone beats that bigger MAF horse to death. Look if you want to verify you NEED a bigger MAF then back probe the signal voltage coming from the MAF if it goes higher than 4vdc before you redline then yes you need a bigger MAF. If it doesn't then save yourself the couple hundred bucks and put it towards something else. But of course I will be told I don't know what I am talking about again lol.
Its simple math really, 4vdc is peak reading for the MAF if you are below redline, or useable RPM's and hitting 4vdc then the MAF is a restriction. As I and others have tried to explain before an aftermarket MAF is a crap shoot at best and is not nearly as reliable or efficient as a stock MAF across the whole RPM range. You will have spikes where the engine is lean and then it is rich, some are better than others, but again its a crap shoot. Roll the dice and take a chance, i'd rather lose a few horses and have a nice stable A/F ratio to work with. Most people but the MAF and get lucky with a good idle and get some butt-o-meter gains, but for the people who have been on the other side of the fence with having to deal with MAF problems its just not worth it.
Just my .02, actually its about .001 worth[8D]
Its simple math really, 4vdc is peak reading for the MAF if you are below redline, or useable RPM's and hitting 4vdc then the MAF is a restriction. As I and others have tried to explain before an aftermarket MAF is a crap shoot at best and is not nearly as reliable or efficient as a stock MAF across the whole RPM range. You will have spikes where the engine is lean and then it is rich, some are better than others, but again its a crap shoot. Roll the dice and take a chance, i'd rather lose a few horses and have a nice stable A/F ratio to work with. Most people but the MAF and get lucky with a good idle and get some butt-o-meter gains, but for the people who have been on the other side of the fence with having to deal with MAF problems its just not worth it.
Just my .02, actually its about .001 worth[8D]
#15
RE: track times in..need some advice on these numbers..what do you guys think
thanks birdman..ill check for that to save me some money. But where exactly am i checking that? am i using a simple volt metter? thanks.
#16
RE: track times in..need some advice on these numbers..what do you guys think
Thanks for the info birdman...that's what we look for in a forum....make a lot of sense. As for 5.0sthewaytogo....yeah the 94 has breathing problems. Even a new intake (like Trickflow) can liven things up a bit. I would do that with a 65 mm tb before I touched the MAF. The stock MAF can flow over 500 cfm. If you do the math you won't touch 500 cfm with your car unless you are cammed and are going over 6000 rpm for power.
#17
RE: track times in..need some advice on these numbers..what do you guys think
Also make sure you need that much fuel pressure. The 5.0 is not diesel ya know...where you get more power by upping the fuel pressure. You could be running rich, which is my guess.
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bryan616fl
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
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01-25-2019 09:07 PM