Motor swap advice (crate motor)
#1
Motor swap advice (crate motor)
Hi guys!
I had to temporarily shelf my motor swap for a while because of finances and all, but I'm back on track, and looking at completing the job by late April of this year. I'm getting the engine from D&D Motorsports (www.dndmotorsports.com). Its the 425 HP Comp Hawk Longblock setup. My stang has over 300k miles, and I know there is going to be a lot of incidentals to take care of. So far, I have a Systemax intake, 70mm TB, 76mm MAF, and 30# injectors waiting in the garage.
My goal for the car is for it to be deep under cover, posing as stock even when cruising with the wife, but being mean and nasty when the gas is stomped. With that in mind:
1. The guy at D&D told me that the engine will be a smooth idler, because I don't want to be rocking and rolling in mall parking lots and have mothers jerking their kids out of my way like they think I'm going to stomp the gas any second... Do you guys think that he was being straight with me, or trying to sell me? I know 425 HP is a pretty big jump from nearly stock, so how do I know that this will be as streetable as stock? Should I have a custom cam ground for it to make sure it's not too lopey? If I had to sacrifice a couple ponies off the top end to keep it feeling stock at idle, I'd do it in a second.
2. I know that I'll need motor mounts and tranny mounts, what's a good brand/material?
3. I'll be going with a Centerforce DF and I'll need a pilot bearing and throwout bearing. I know one of those comes with the clutch, but I have heard that the ones that come thrown in are junk. Where do I get good bearings?
4. I have a good catback exhaust, but I need headers. I don't want to trash the emmissions control on the car, but I have heard that the cats can get clogged up, and after 300k miles, it's a possibility. How do I know if they are trashed?
5. What are the other 52,000 things that I don't know enough to realize that need replacing/attention in an engine swap?
I had to temporarily shelf my motor swap for a while because of finances and all, but I'm back on track, and looking at completing the job by late April of this year. I'm getting the engine from D&D Motorsports (www.dndmotorsports.com). Its the 425 HP Comp Hawk Longblock setup. My stang has over 300k miles, and I know there is going to be a lot of incidentals to take care of. So far, I have a Systemax intake, 70mm TB, 76mm MAF, and 30# injectors waiting in the garage.
My goal for the car is for it to be deep under cover, posing as stock even when cruising with the wife, but being mean and nasty when the gas is stomped. With that in mind:
1. The guy at D&D told me that the engine will be a smooth idler, because I don't want to be rocking and rolling in mall parking lots and have mothers jerking their kids out of my way like they think I'm going to stomp the gas any second... Do you guys think that he was being straight with me, or trying to sell me? I know 425 HP is a pretty big jump from nearly stock, so how do I know that this will be as streetable as stock? Should I have a custom cam ground for it to make sure it's not too lopey? If I had to sacrifice a couple ponies off the top end to keep it feeling stock at idle, I'd do it in a second.
2. I know that I'll need motor mounts and tranny mounts, what's a good brand/material?
3. I'll be going with a Centerforce DF and I'll need a pilot bearing and throwout bearing. I know one of those comes with the clutch, but I have heard that the ones that come thrown in are junk. Where do I get good bearings?
4. I have a good catback exhaust, but I need headers. I don't want to trash the emmissions control on the car, but I have heard that the cats can get clogged up, and after 300k miles, it's a possibility. How do I know if they are trashed?
5. What are the other 52,000 things that I don't know enough to realize that need replacing/attention in an engine swap?
#5
The whole thing is that I don't want people to be like "Yeah, THAT's had some work done to it!" when I pass... Old ladies scowling at me, mothers jerking their kids out of the street... I just want it to have class and manners, and a whole assload of power. If there are plenty of production cars rolling around with 500 horses under the hood, it can obviously be done, right?
#7
Hey, any mechanics out there want to tell me about how much it will cost roughly to have someone pull the old motor and put in the new one?
#8
There is a shop in my town that will do it for about $300 bucks turnkey. I know it's a long ways from you, but these guys have some serious fast cars and do cleaner work than the dealerships. The young guy by the name of Scott(32yo) runs in the sub 6.50 index around the 215 mph or more index. He built the car from the ground up in his shop.
#9
the T5 isnt as bad as everyone makes it out to be... the biggest weakness of a T5 is the lack of skill of the driver.
Ive but many heart pounding miles on my T5 behid my 347.. and its still going strong (with 160k on the gears i might add)
#10
to get those hp #s from a small displacement engine its gonna have a "noticeable" idle. you can even run it through stock mufflers and your still gonna know its nastee! a 327 ci small ford! ohh the hair on my arms are already standing up hearing it twist 6500rpms sweeet! you lucky bastard!
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