thomascameron

I think I *might* have found the problem. I posted on a separate thread about it, but I just took the MAF off and looked at it and I don't see any "blue tube" as the web site says there should be. I do see a wide open tunnel into which the MAF sensor wires project, but it is empty. I think that the mechanic either didn't receive or failed to install the blue tube, and I'm guessing that it is supposed to go into that small tube cast into the MAF housing.

89lx5_0

yea i got same problem bro 306, e303 cam, 1.7 rockers, gt40 intake, ported stock heads, 65mm bbk tb. About to order 24lb/hr injectors with most likely pro-m maf or granetelli maf ordering 1 5/8 equal length ceramic coated mac headers ceramic coated mac o/r xpipe. Any ways my car does same stuff. have to keep it alive most of time when cold starting and when it does keep it self alive it surges til its warm. sometimes even brings idle to 2000 rpm. It bucks really bad trying to hold speed or rpm particularly around 2000rpm. and other times it will hold it just fine. ive brought up with idle screw cuz it would just die on me at a light or when i put the clutch in. this has been suggested to me as i will to u but i was told to tune it. i wont b doing this til i get those other parts but it helped my cousins drivability issues as far as the surging and bucking. along with taking away the annoyance of these issues it will allow u to get what the motor is capable of producing. hope this helps. also my bro has same issues on 306 trickflow heads 1.6 rockers e303 cam TF Intake 65mm tb 24lb/hr injectors granatelli maf. and i have also not heard very positive feedback on C&L mafs they arent really calibrated the tube just tricks the comp sn ur always having to turn em to get the car to idle right id rr that thing but its ok for temp use.

mjr46

I was refering to trying a different brand since there have been issues here and there with c&l ones

dudeboy

I'm not positive what you are describing... and I think I responded in your other thread?

Just in case...
The housing is 76mm ID.
Inside the housing there is a smaller tube called the Sample Tube. This will have an ID of about .5" depending on the C&L calibration.

If you do see a blue marking on the sample tube, don't assume that it is right. I've found these to be mismarked before. It is best to measure it.


What ecu do you have?
What is the part number of the sensor in the C&L?

jason

SpitnCobra

I've changed everything when mine did that come to find out it was a Hair Line crack in the distributor itself, never heard of i know, but a new 1 fixed my problem.

aode08

Idle resetting procedure for '86-'93 5L Mustangs.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here is something that is sure to come in handy for those of you that have superchargers and modified fuel systems with larger injectors and recalibrated MAF's.
Here is the procedure:


1) Clear idle memory by disconnecting battery for 20+ minutes.


2) Disconnect the Idle air bypass solenoid


3) Reconnect battery

4) Start engine and set idle speed to desired RPM

5) Turn off engine and reconnect the air bypass solenoid

5a) set TPS to 0.99 volts (Do not exceed 1.0 volts) Use a digital volt meter. from the green wire on the TPS =positive, black negative.

6) Start engine and let it idle for 2 minutes with no accessories on.

7) Turn off engine for two minutes

8) Start engine again and run for 2 minutes with
EVERY accessory turned on.

9) Turn engine off again.

Your computer has now relearned the idle. This
procedure assumes a clean ICS valve. If your ICS
is carboned up then this will probably not help.

I am not sure why Best Products (maker of the Pro-M 77) etc,does not include this in their instructions.

* Higher idle settings may help out alot as well ! *