Power loss, hesitatation, sputter, chug
#103
most good shops have a scan tool where it plugs in and when the problem arises during driving they will press a button and it will capture 30 seconds before and after the event to be diagnosed later.
this may be something that could help
this may be something that could help
#104
The black and yellow scanner that I had a link for - in an earlier post - that one works fine, it'll blink out the codes, but it'll transcribe into actual numbers for you. You don't have to buy any kind of cable.
#105
there are a mandated set of pins in an OBD2 plug, the rest of the points are open for a manufaturer to have free reign, the thing is, each one does something difret, so if ford uses pin 4 for for something like ecu data stream, but dodge uses pin 7 for it and pin 4 is actually ABS... you need either a cable that will tell the scanner what pin is what or if you cant use one your scanner isn't much good but for basic codes.
what i was talking about does not capture codes.
it records EVERY data stream that the OBD2 port on your car is telling it, and it is mfg specific so it gets them all, so that way you have a 60 second window to see the issue in. if you cant see if in there it may be something mechanical the computer cant sense (i had a friend that threw a rod through the block with no CEL lol)
what i was talking about does not capture codes.
it records EVERY data stream that the OBD2 port on your car is telling it, and it is mfg specific so it gets them all, so that way you have a 60 second window to see the issue in. if you cant see if in there it may be something mechanical the computer cant sense (i had a friend that threw a rod through the block with no CEL lol)
#107
i only bring it up because my teacher at collage is a nissan service manager, and he brought in an altama or something that was having a strange throttle issue or something and that was how they were tring to fix it becasue it was SO intermittent
#108
I set my Timing at 13* and with the spout connector plugged in it's at 37*
I performed an Idle Setting Procedure, adjusted the holes for the TPS, and didn't get it any closer to the desired range. However, code 23 did disappear.
I performed a KOEO/KOER tests 3 times.
KOEO
22 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) or BARO sensor out of range
10 - cylinder #1 has a problem
KOER
42 - HEGO (HO2S) sensor voltage high/ system rich
92 - HEGO (HO2S) sensor voltage high/ system rich
13 - RPM at idle out of range/low (((( Idle set at 850 ))))
I went out for a test drive, 1 mile down the road to a gas station, and the car seemed fine. It went forward pretty good.
On the way back, it made one popping noise, but no matter what kind of driving I did, I couldn't get it to do it again. Car has been sitting for some time now.
At least my codes have been verified.
I performed an Idle Setting Procedure, adjusted the holes for the TPS, and didn't get it any closer to the desired range. However, code 23 did disappear.
I performed a KOEO/KOER tests 3 times.
KOEO
22 - Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) or BARO sensor out of range
10 - cylinder #1 has a problem
KOER
42 - HEGO (HO2S) sensor voltage high/ system rich
92 - HEGO (HO2S) sensor voltage high/ system rich
13 - RPM at idle out of range/low (((( Idle set at 850 ))))
I went out for a test drive, 1 mile down the road to a gas station, and the car seemed fine. It went forward pretty good.
On the way back, it made one popping noise, but no matter what kind of driving I did, I couldn't get it to do it again. Car has been sitting for some time now.
At least my codes have been verified.