87Stallion

I'll do that today. Thanks again for your help

87Stallion

MJR46 after fine tunning the idle air bleed screws it is a little better. But overall it is night and day difference.

Everyone all says get your timing right then adjust your carb and idle. I didnt think the car could handle 20 degrees of base timing but it runs much better and even sounds different.

Thanks Again

mjr46

stock engines with stock cams follow the rule of less base timing but what matters most expecially in a performance engine keeping close taps on total advance, I like full advance in by 2300-2500 in my performance engines which is one reason why I like the msd billet dizzy, rate as well as total advance is fully tuneable

P Zero

'87Stallion, while the duraspark II is actually a very good ignition, it's not great when compared to something like an MSD 6AL or the Ford Motorsport ignition (built by MSD).
When I put the FMS ignition on my car it ran considerably better than it did with the factory stuff. Idle was a little smoother, and it just overall ran better.

I see you're going to be changing the plugs, see if you can get some sort of non-resistor racing plug. I ran autolite 33's in mine (C9 351 heads).

mjr46

^^^the Msd by ford motorsport was junk,I had it and it lasted a few months then burnt out, it was nothing more than a duraspark box with a revlimiter chip, I use it as a testbox now as it still works but once it warms up the car will intermitantly stall........it's been discontinued for years now

87Stallion

Yeah as soon as funds allow in switching to a MSD box and dizzy.

redemption

tuning my a/f was long but learned alot, probley need more TLC but, im happer were its at, full advance at 2500, base only at 13, will bump up later on. max advance is at 34 or 36 i forgot. it dislikes cold startups. but other then that when it gets to operating temp sounds good, burns eyes when its cold giving it more fuel to warm up since i have manual choke when its off tho doesnt really smell unburnt at all. i probley need nnew plugs tho i think i fouled them from when it wasnt tuned when i frist fired it up, always good to jsut get new ones. I tried the vacuum gauge, but cam just throws it off and just makes it harder. i went by plug color and smell, and a a little bit of gauge i guess. its running a little on the rich side i believe. Best thing i think i did when you manipulating the idle a/f screws, turn on in till it stutters then turn out 1/4 turn and do same routine to all of them,
going carbed from efi i definitely learned how to get the feel for the engine what it likes and doesn't
and i love my MSd 6al, was testing for spark before first start, and since its mulitple spark it sounded like a taser going on bahaha scared the crap outta me
mjr knows his stuff
Good luck man =]

P Zero

Something failed in yours. And it is definitely not just a duraspark with a rev limiter. IT was built by MSD for Ford. IT had the same Multiple Spark Discharge that the 6AL has. That's why the rev limiter chips between the Ford Motorsport ignition and the actual MSD box are interchangeable.

However that doesn't mean that they handle hard driving very well. I fried my friends 6AL after driving home from Canada like an idiot. It got hot and, get this, the coil blew the f**k up. He got a new blaster coil, but the box was messed up. He tried fixing it (he's an electrical genius (engineer) BTW), it worked sort of but never quite right, similar problems to yours. The Ford Motorsport ignition I have ran great on my 85 GT for years, and I'm about to wire it in to my ranger.

And the intermittent stalling when hot should be a dead give away that the unit went bad. It's not as common with the duraspark 2 style ignitions as it is with the distributor mounted ones, but it does happen.