When I have it in park and I give it a little bit of a rev (3000-4000 rpm's) and let off, the rpms stay for like two seconds at 1300-1500 rpms, and then it will slowly go down. Is this just a 5.0 being a 5.0 (if ya know what I mean ) or do I need to clean a sensor or something. I think it's just a sensor or maybe I should check and see what my TPS is set at, I put it at .99v about a month ago and haven't checked it since. Someone help me out or tell me if this is just normal, it seems like it's gotten worse during the past couple of weeks.

 

Well mine does it too..as does my buddy's 5.0..and my other friends 2000 and my other friends (haha im popular lol) 2001..you revv it up then it comes down..waits a few seconds..then goes to like the idle at 900..dunno if all of us have something wrong hahha i hope not or if just does it..

 

Well I guess I'm alright then, I might just need to reset my TPS (last time I checked it was at .96v). Thanks so far!

 

The "ten pin" connectors are these salt and pepper shaker looking things found at the back of 5.0L engines -between the intake manifold and firewall. These connectors are notorious for developing poor connections and causing strange EEC quirks, like idle fluctuations, check engine lights, and unexplainable diagnostic codes to be triggered. On many Mustangs there may be a dealer installed extension harnesses, making it appear as if there are a total of four of these connectors.

Every owner of a 5.0L EEC-IV controlled engine has probably experienced, or one day will, the dreaded "idle surge". Ford terms it the rolling idle, but either way its annoying as hell to watch the idle stick at 1500, then drop to 700, then float to 1000 and so on. Or perhaps you've just got strange and annoying EEC gremlins and you're at wits end. Well we've got one other thing to check out before you roll your car off a clif, the ten pin connectors.

Always start by checking the basics: vacuum leaks, throttle position sensor voltage, resetting idle, and pulling codes.

Once all these ideas are checked out and crossed off the list, check the ten-pin connectors on the main harness. These connectors are notorious for developing loose contacts. Ford even issued a TSB on some model years, and dealers installed an "extension harness", thinking perhaps the original harness was too short causing the large connectors to pull apart. The fix below is simple enough to perform, and should be done as a preventative measure even if you dont have surging problems.

It may be a long shot in solving your problems but its not a bad idea, and another thing to check off your troubleshooting list.


1. Disconnect the negative battery cable! To open the connectors squeeze the four side clips and pull apart. Do not pry the clips apart as with other connectors. The inner workings reveals ten male and female connectors.





2. Using a nail or sharp punch spread the male connectors open just slightly. This will ensure a complete contact. If you open up the ends too much use needle nose plier to sneeze the "leafs" back together.



Before reassembly take some spray electrical contact cleaner and clean the male and female connectors. FM

 

Wow, that was like a giant tech article thanks quik!