5.0L (1979-1995) Mustang Technical discussions on 5.0 Liter Mustangs within. This does not include the 5.0 from the 2011 Mustang GT. That information is in the 2005-1011 section.

Burning oil...blow by?

Old 05-31-2010, 06:44 AM
  #11  
projectresto83
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Originally Posted by muzzy
Ok let’s see if I can help! No1 Check your PCV, if its plugged that’s why you have the leaks. Get a new one and this will help. No2 Run full synthetic oil in your car, this should help stop the big cloud of smoke. No3 Yes you have blow by, your car needs a ring job.
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OP Stick with conventional oil in your 5.0. Since its leaking and burning oil you are just wasting money. Yes your rings are worn. Try a compression test and see how worn it is. You can run for a long while on an old engine so don't worry about that.

No ford didn't offer different gauges. Sounds like you don't have a B cam. if the guy changed pistons he is retarded because they are already stock from the factory. With a stock setup there is no reason to do so.
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Old 05-31-2010, 02:48 PM
  #12  
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yea thats what i said. yea i might as well with the conventional. anyone have input on which weight i should use? and im pretty sure its my drain plugs...wouldnt it only leak from the rear if it was the rear main seal? lol i dunno this weekend im going to jack her up and clean and replace the drain plugs. and i guess throw conventional in there? wouldnt that hurt my seals even further though?
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Old 05-31-2010, 03:43 PM
  #13  
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oil is not going to hurt the seals. It may end up like one guy said with the synthetic and start leaking. Only thing that is going to hurt the seals if when the compression from your combustion chamber blows-by your piston rings into the crankcase and the pressure from the air has no way to escape because of the pcv system not allowing it.

Another thing you could try besides the thicker weight oil is using a 4qrts. of 10w-30 and a quart of Lucas.

Most people will probably tell you different but, I would run a 20w-50 or a straight 50w.
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Old 05-31-2010, 08:40 PM
  #14  
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hmm. this sucks. hah to check my PCV...will i need to pull the oil pan? or if i get a compression test will it be able to tell me?
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Old 05-31-2010, 08:46 PM
  #15  
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compression test will tell you how much compression the motor still has in every cylinder. For that you will need a tester. I would look at how much oil it uses and decide if you are happy with it. The pcv valve, grommet and screen altogether is a 20 dollar part that can be replaced in a matter of minutes.

The pcv valve sits on the back of the lower intake. It has a vacuum hose going to it, around the thickness of a nickel. When you pull that hose, the valve will probably come with it. The screen, you will need to spin a screw in it or use some kind of needle nose pliers to get it out. It can be done without taking the upper intake off but, for people with really big arms, it can be a tight fit.

I would start saving for another motor myself.

Last edited by TrimDrip; 05-31-2010 at 08:51 PM.
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Old 05-31-2010, 08:51 PM
  #16  
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alrighty. thanks trim...ill def check it out when i change the drain plugs. im only paying $2.77/quart for the 5w30 motorcraft...should i just keep running it? because to me thats cheap...i used to spend $10/quart for my gsxr.
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Old 05-31-2010, 08:54 PM
  #17  
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I would step up to a thicker oil. Most likely it will yield better results. Or at least put a quart of the lucas with it.
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Old 05-31-2010, 09:02 PM
  #18  
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what do you figure? like 10w? sorry for all these noob questions..just wanna dot my I's and cross my T's
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Old 05-31-2010, 09:32 PM
  #19  
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No, more like 10w40 would be a good start. Then a bottle of lucas oil stablizer.
4 qts oil, 1qt stablizer
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Old 05-31-2010, 11:16 PM
  #20  
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Run it untill it quits smoking. Now rebuild or replace engine...problem solved.
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