Do you need a tune...
After doing a complete intake system? Long story short. I finished my entire intake on my 95 5.0. After everything done, my computer went crazy, it was idling at like 2000-2500 RMP's. after driving it, and letting it adjust, it finally adjusted and settled down alittle bit, then finally back to normal at 900-1000RPM's.
Now.. When I'm driving and cruising in 5th or 4th gear RPMS are fine. When I throw in neutral to stop, the RPMS stay fixed at 2000. After I come to a complete stop, they go back to the 900-1000. I'm starting to think doing such a big change is throwing my computer off. The set up btw is
-BBK CAI
-75MM throttle body
-trickflow elbow
-Comp Cams Intake manifold
A guy at the shop where I was at suggested "rebooting"
The entire system. By unplugging the battery, then taking the positive and the negative and let them touch. He said doing so would reboot the system, then driving it normally from them would "teach" the computer the new driving patterns and airflow, etc. is this true? Would that work? Or do I basically have to get it professionally tuned ?
Now.. When I'm driving and cruising in 5th or 4th gear RPMS are fine. When I throw in neutral to stop, the RPMS stay fixed at 2000. After I come to a complete stop, they go back to the 900-1000. I'm starting to think doing such a big change is throwing my computer off. The set up btw is
-BBK CAI
-75MM throttle body
-trickflow elbow
-Comp Cams Intake manifold
A guy at the shop where I was at suggested "rebooting"
The entire system. By unplugging the battery, then taking the positive and the negative and let them touch. He said doing so would reboot the system, then driving it normally from them would "teach" the computer the new driving patterns and airflow, etc. is this true? Would that work? Or do I basically have to get it professionally tuned ?
Yes, its true. You'll need to leave the battery disconnected for about an hour. This will drain the computer, allowing it to reset itself. Then you'll need to do an idle relearn, which is reconnecting the battery and starting the car. The car will run like crap at first, but the computer will start fresh and relearn the idling parameters. Run the car for two minutes without any accessories on. Then turn the car off for two minutes. Then turn the car back on with accessories on, again for two minutes.
This should fix your idling issue. If not, try cleaning/replacing your IAC motor and cleaning your MAF sensor. It may take more than one idle relearn to get everything straightened out, especially i the aforementioned items are dirty. Drive the car like normal without romping on it and the computer will relearn the parameters, up to a certain point, before you'll need a tune.
This should fix your idling issue. If not, try cleaning/replacing your IAC motor and cleaning your MAF sensor. It may take more than one idle relearn to get everything straightened out, especially i the aforementioned items are dirty. Drive the car like normal without romping on it and the computer will relearn the parameters, up to a certain point, before you'll need a tune.
Ill give that a try tomorrow morning and see if it helps, as far as the MAF it can't be that. Because it ran normal (as usual) until after the rest of the manifold and everything else went it. I think a reboot of the system should take care of it.
Another small problem though is my gas pedal is now hard as a rock! No idea way..? Do you know a solution to that? I think it's because with the trick flow elbow the throttle body is further? I don't know how that could cause it to be SO hard.
Another small problem though is my gas pedal is now hard as a rock! No idea way..? Do you know a solution to that? I think it's because with the trick flow elbow the throttle body is further? I don't know how that could cause it to be SO hard.
Before you go messing with to much on the idle side of things , you need to get your throttle cable issue sorted out.
When I had mine apart to clean every thing I also added a 1" upper to lower intake spacer . This changed the geometry of the cable linkage causing it to be stiffer , I had to take it all off and heat the bracket that holds the cable and bend it a bit to get it back in line. I also had to readjust the cruise control cable as it was now not allowing the throttle to come all the way closed. Also make sure the cable is resting in the slot completely. If you used the same spring the throttle should feel the same unless its coming into the sleeve at an odd angle now.
Also you want just the slightest amount of slack on the cable while in the idle position other wise your throttle plate wont close all the way . Make sure when at idle position your throttle is firmly resting on the stop screw with no tension on the cable.
When I had mine apart to clean every thing I also added a 1" upper to lower intake spacer . This changed the geometry of the cable linkage causing it to be stiffer , I had to take it all off and heat the bracket that holds the cable and bend it a bit to get it back in line. I also had to readjust the cruise control cable as it was now not allowing the throttle to come all the way closed. Also make sure the cable is resting in the slot completely. If you used the same spring the throttle should feel the same unless its coming into the sleeve at an odd angle now.
Also you want just the slightest amount of slack on the cable while in the idle position other wise your throttle plate wont close all the way . Make sure when at idle position your throttle is firmly resting on the stop screw with no tension on the cable.
Before you go messing with to much on the idle side of things , you need to get your throttle cable issue sorted out.
When I had mine apart to clean every thing I also added a 1" upper to lower intake spacer . This changed the geometry of the cable linkage causing it to be stiffer , I had to take it all off and heat the bracket that holds the cable and bend it a bit to get it back in line. I also had to readjust the cruise control cable as it was now not allowing the throttle to come all the way closed. Also make sure the cable is resting in the slot completely. If you used the same spring the throttle should feel the same unless its coming into the sleeve at an odd angle now.
Also you want just the slightest amount of slack on the cable while in the idle position other wise your throttle plate wont close all the way . Make sure when at idle position your throttle is firmly resting on the stop screw with no tension on the cable.
When I had mine apart to clean every thing I also added a 1" upper to lower intake spacer . This changed the geometry of the cable linkage causing it to be stiffer , I had to take it all off and heat the bracket that holds the cable and bend it a bit to get it back in line. I also had to readjust the cruise control cable as it was now not allowing the throttle to come all the way closed. Also make sure the cable is resting in the slot completely. If you used the same spring the throttle should feel the same unless its coming into the sleeve at an odd angle now.
Also you want just the slightest amount of slack on the cable while in the idle position other wise your throttle plate wont close all the way . Make sure when at idle position your throttle is firmly resting on the stop screw with no tension on the cable.
. I disconnected the battery for an hour. Did the idle relearn the user above suggested, turn off for 2 mins, then off for 2, etc. Didnt drive the car at all all day. Got off work at night, and went for a drive since it was nice and cool out. The Rpm shifting seems alright. But if I'm at 2,000 RPM's shifting gears sometimes the rpm gauge will jump just a little bit. But just like before, I'll be at 1500rpms cruising in 4th or 5th gear. Then ill throw in neutral to stop a light and the RPMS stay fixed at 2000. Once I come to a complete stop, they jump down to 900-1000. It's in any gear. I can be on 2nd gear, I throw in neutral and RPMS jump to 2,000 and stay there until I come to a complete stop. You said it could take 25 or 100 miles for it to relearn. I'm being optimistic and hoping that may be the case :/
It seemed to sound alright after the drive. It didn't have the same looping sound from earlier that morning.
The sn95 computers are too smart. They can change fuel mapping up to 40%! definitely try cleaning the MAF, TPS, and IAC and go from there. My MAF was dirty and my SCT Chip basically did nothing to my car until I cleaned it. The idle was jumpy before and now it smoothed it.
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