Install Components?
So, I have my parts ready to go. I have a Pioneer Z-120BT and my Magden M1.b Performance Computer.
Wayne, you linked me to that PAC harness kit. Is that what I want instead of the regular harness? Or how do I use that?
Do I need anything else?
I know I need a dash kit too, but I'll get that. I meant electronics wise for the install.
Wayne, you linked me to that PAC harness kit. Is that what I want instead of the regular harness? Or how do I use that?
Do I need anything else?
I know I need a dash kit too, but I'll get that. I meant electronics wise for the install.
Last edited by HT; Jan 20, 2011 at 09:40 PM.
Instead of. The usual writeups are using the metra/scoche ones, which you don´t want if your looking for a crimp and go bolt-in solution.
You might need a diode to prevent an reboot issue with some pioneer units and the PAC unit. I´d just do it ahead of time to save yourself the headache.
As for being set, only other things really are heat-shrink tubing, solder and 15w soldering iron if going that method, or crimp connectors and crimping tool for that method. Otherwise unless you have some special HDMI connection to use for the magden, you should be good.
Maybe a relay if your looking to have dvd playback while driving for any passenger you might cart along. That´s about it.
You might need a diode to prevent an reboot issue with some pioneer units and the PAC unit. I´d just do it ahead of time to save yourself the headache.
As for being set, only other things really are heat-shrink tubing, solder and 15w soldering iron if going that method, or crimp connectors and crimping tool for that method. Otherwise unless you have some special HDMI connection to use for the magden, you should be good.
Maybe a relay if your looking to have dvd playback while driving for any passenger you might cart along. That´s about it.
Last edited by wayne613; Jan 22, 2011 at 01:20 AM.
So, you just a 1-amp diode (1N4005) from Radio Shack left after the PAC if you do the below bypass method. This is to prevent this issue from occurring.
[youtube]D3_GvJ7ACbk[/youtube]
Last edited by wayne613; Jan 22, 2011 at 01:35 AM.
I think I might take it to a local audio shop and work with them to get all this done. I really want to learn how to do it, but I'm scared I'll screw something up because I've never messed with it before.
Most of the time, if you have some electronics experience at all it´s far more likely THEY will screw something up, then you. Most stereo install places are kids getting a paycheck for grunt work. Everything´s on a tight time-table, everything is crimped and taped(if your lucky), and they don´t give a damn about your car. They´re only interested in getting it hooked up and functioning for the short-term.
There´s not a single one around here I know of that isn´t the equivalent of a fast-food drive through for car installs. I wouldn´t trust them installing a valve-stem cap, much less a complete head-unit.
Last edited by wayne613; Jan 22, 2011 at 01:50 AM.
Yeah, I have a guy that I really trust locally. He is really reputable, but I'll have to tell him exactly what I want to work and how and lead him through it.
As far as electronics experience, I've built my own PC. Never soldered anything, or anything of that sort, but it can't be too hard...I'm just scared to screw something up.
Can you link me to the PAC issue? I have no idea what you are talking about there.
As far as electronics experience, I've built my own PC. Never soldered anything, or anything of that sort, but it can't be too hard...I'm just scared to screw something up.
Can you link me to the PAC issue? I have no idea what you are talking about there.
I put a link in 2 responses to the pdf file for the issue. And now, again there.
They need some grammar police and some spell-checking software there, but..
Originally Posted by from above pdf file
PROBLEM: In some cases, Ford amplified systems may cause feeback to the C2R-
FRD1 module and cause the radio to turn off intermittently or restart especially at higher
volumes.
FIX: Cut the White/Green wire coming from the C2R-FRD1 module and solder a 1 amp
diode (Radio Shack part no. 1N4005) or equivalent, inline on the white/green wire as
shown in the diargram below. Make sure that the diode’s stripe is towards the harness
of of the C2R module.
FRD1 module and cause the radio to turn off intermittently or restart especially at higher
volumes.
FIX: Cut the White/Green wire coming from the C2R-FRD1 module and solder a 1 amp
diode (Radio Shack part no. 1N4005) or equivalent, inline on the white/green wire as
shown in the diargram below. Make sure that the diode’s stripe is towards the harness
of of the C2R module.
Last edited by wayne613; Jan 22, 2011 at 01:55 AM.
If you use a hair-dryer for the heat-shrink tubing I may need to drive down to pimp-slap you however. Waving motion while rolling the wire slightly with a bic lighter and done.
Last edited by wayne613; Jan 22, 2011 at 02:17 AM.


