Hello All!

This is my first time post. I hope you don't mind, I have a 1966 Ford Falcon Futura - not a Mustang, but a close relative to it for sure.

Here is my question:

Prior to storing my Falcon (289) for the winter I was having trouble starting the car. It has a new Optima battery. It was as if the battery was dead. I would place it on the charger and it would turn over again. That or I would give it a jump - but even then, that wouldn't always work.

I stored the battery in my basement for the winter and ran it on trickle charge from time to time. I checked it today and my charger informed me that it was fully charged. I put it in the car, turned the ignition - nothing. Not a click, not a sound at all. Console light seemed dimmer as did the alternator light on the console.

This is likely an easy question - I am new to all this!

Any idea what the problem might be? I replaced the positive cable as the other one was split. Should I change the other as well? Could it be the alternator?

 

Yeah, I would clean both ends of the other cable. Also make sure that it is in park or neutral.

BTW, if you ask this in the "other" section, you'll get a better response. This isn't really a tech section.

 

Hmmm ... a newbie mistake! I will repost. Thanks!

 

Solenoid?

 

Seems the 1 year old Optima battery is the culprit. I had it on trickle charge all winter (stored inside). I put my Tacoma battery in it and it fired up like a top. I cleaned all the electrical contact points and added a bit of diaelectric grease to them as all.

I went back home and put the Optima on 10A charge for about 5 hours. The charger said it was fully charged but when I put it back in the Falcon, nothing. The volt gauge showed it at 8V. My other batt showed at the desired 12/14.

So I guess it is off to Canadian Tire ...

Thoughts? Defective battery?

 

I had read elsewhere that modern battery chargers have a hard time "recognizing" the charge state of very discharged Optima batteries. This is due to how the microprocessors used in modern chargers react to the way these read/charge.

The solution is to buy a battery charger that is "Optima ready", or to use an OLD charger that dos not rely on processors. Another way is to "fool" the modern charger to charge the Optima by hooking a regular discharged battery in tandem with the Optima useing jumper cables.

Lots of good Optimas are hitting the scrap piles because of these issues.

In addition, as I stated elsewhere, Optimas do not react well to sitting for extended periods, especially when badly discharged.

 

Take the battery out and have it load tested. Just because a battery has 12 volts doesnt mean it's good. I've had them drop to 6v while cranking then go back to 12v. It shouldnt drop below 10v.

 

After handling the Optima product for 15+ years we would like to share the following:

See our NEW line of OPTIMA recommended Chargers (Battery Accessories)
Facts:
- Batteries are designed to store electricity.
- Batteries do not make electricity.
- Batteries must be charged before any testing is accurate or effective.
- Alternators ARE NOT battery chargers!
- Seldom to batteries discharge / re-charge on their own.
- Deep Cycle batteries will take much longer to charge.
- Battery chargers need to be tested and amperage and the voltage checked manually.
- Sitting a battery on concrete does NOT discharge it!


Battery charging instructions:

* Voltage at the battery terminals when vehicle is running should Be from a minimum of 12.8 volts to < 15.0 volts
* Battery chargers should charge 13.8 ? 15.50 volts,

Never charge a battery at > than 15.6 volts.


We recommend the following charging procedure for a 34, 34/78, 75/35, and 6v:
1) Charge the battery A MINIMUM OF 100 amps for 15 mins ( @ 14.5+ volts)
a) Let battery and charger cool for 15 mins
2) Repeat step one at least four times - after letting battery cool 15 mins after each charge
3) Charge at 2-10 amps (trickle / automatic) for 24 hours minimum
4) Test the battery
5) D31 batteries: repeat each step again

--> WE ALWAYS RECOMMEND CHARGING TWO BATTERIES AT A TIME- CONNECT THEM POSTIVE POST TO POSITIVE POST ? negative post to negative post) AND PUT THE CHARGER NEGATIVE CABLE ON ONE BATTERY AND THE POSITIVE ON THE OTHER BATTERY! (and DOUBLE CHARGING TIMES)


ALL Optima's need Charged up if they have been discharged, before testing!



We compare charging an Optima to waking a teenager up on Saturday morning, or filling an empty 55-gallon drum with water ? it?s going to take some work!

Charging 10 amps on a drained 31 series battery is like filling a 55 gallon drum with an eye dropper!
Charging 10 amps on a drained 34/78 sries battery is like filling a 55 gallon drum with a 10oz cup - it can be done; but why?

Your alternator will not (and should not be used to) charge an OPTIMA up - unless you have a 100 amp alternator and less than 100 amp draw, and charge it for A long period of time with the car running. (and this will only ruin your alternator)


Experience indicates most batteries thought to be defective may have been discharged, and just need woke up ? and recharged,

Questions to ask before having battery tested:
How many amps is the alternator charging at full output?

How many volts is the alternator charging at full output?

How many amps draw is there on the battery, when application is NOT running?
(Put an amp meter between (+) cable and the (+) post of the battery)

Always use a voltage regulated battery charger with limits set to the above ratings. Overcharging can cause the safety valves to open and battery gases to escape, causing premature end of life. These gases are flammable! You cannot replace water in sealed batteries that have been overcharged. Any battery that becomes very hot while charging should be disconnected immediately. If the safety valaves have popped, warranty is void!
Thank you,
Technical assistance
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Website: www.BATTERIESareUS.com
Email: tech@BATTERIESareUS.com
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