Folks,

Can anyone give mesome info on lowering the rear of my66 mustang. Im having all sorts of bother with manufacturers of lowering block kitshere in OZ. I have an 8 & 3/4 inch diff which steps down from 3inch tubes at the centreto 2 & 1/4 inch tubes at the leaf spring. I havnt dismantled the rear end yet, but I think the the size of the pin that holds the leaf spring & saddles in place isabout 12mm (1/2 inch), but I cant find any reference to its actual size in any workshop manual Ive seen.. In OZ we have a falcon which had the same rear end as the early mustangs but lowering block kits im getting (which are allegedly for a mustang), are arrivng with upto 25mm (1 inchpins) and 3 inch wideU Bolts. Ithink the assumption on their part is that they all had a9 inch rear end. I just knew I should've bought them in the states when last over.

Any help would be appreciated, particularly the size of those pins.

Many thanks

Baldrick

 

take some pictures if you can i rather use lowering springs over blocks

 

Here is how I see things like that in this day-and-age....if you build a good rear suspension..Koni, Fiberglass leafs, traction-master bars, panhard-bar, and frame connectors.....you have spent about what it would cost you to install the 4-link!!! Plus the 4-link reduces your unsprung weight by a good bit. (I hate unsprung weight!!)

My advice is to do what I did 40 years ago when everyone was buying Honda 90's and I wanted an XLCH Sportster...all the guys said "buy a Honda and work your way up to the XLCH".....I didn't waste my money on the interim stuff...I just saved what I would have spent on step-by-step upgrades and bought what I wanted when I had the money. Never regretted it. Never.

Just my 3 cents worth.

 

I would get mideye springs myself i don't like lowering blocks myself especially if the springs are old.

 

Yeah, or even reverse eye.

 

Buy the proper spring for the hight you want. http://www.eatonsprings.com/They help me with mine and were perfect...

 

Reverse eye lower it 2" right? I dont think you would want it any lower than that...

I agree on saving and buying all at once instead of getting bit by bit. My recent purchase actually saved me 400 bucks becuase I bought it in a kit..

 

+1 get some leafs! blocks are definitely not safe(esp if ur wanting to do aggressive driving) because of the increase in u bolt length, the longer a bolt is the easier it stretches

 

Just because it's longer does not mean it will stretch easier...the grade of the metal determines that. But the block will add too the leverage the axel will exert on the spring during accelleration and braking, making the installation of weld-on Traction-Master an absolute must.

If you are going to spring for new springs.....call Flex-A-Form in Anderson, SC. They cost about $400.00, are single leaf which reduces your specs!!

 

Where are you located Baldrick?

I agree with the others that lowering blocks are not a great idea.
The only real advantage is where you want the look of a lower height with a reallysoft ride. If you are lowering for any sort of handling gain, do springs instead.

in the US, you can buy branded spring kits for anything. Here the cheapest way out is getting the springs reset. It will cost about $200Aus. Any ride height, any stiffness you want.

as far as the pins are concerned, i take it you mean the locating lugs? It shouldnt matter if they are different in size to the blocks as the u bolts hold them in place anyway. (I have some on a ZD). You just have to get longer u-bolts in the correct size to go through the plates.