Bigger Radiator?
ORIGINAL: Arcticspook
Thanks....I am going to go ahead and get the Be Cool radiator. It's a tad pricey, but I am willing to pay for the peace of mind...
Thanks....I am going to go ahead and get the Be Cool radiator. It's a tad pricey, but I am willing to pay for the peace of mind...
ORIGINAL: Arcticspook
Mike, good point. Thanks for the sanity check....
Mike, good point. Thanks for the sanity check....
ORIGINAL: Soaring
Yeah but somehow the old two rows don't do the trick anymore. The 2 rows just do not cool our classic engines. That is a given,and not an arguable conversation. It's a fact. The old two rows just have to be replaced. with either a 3-4 row copper or a 2 row aluminum rad.
ORIGINAL: Arcticspook
Mike, good point. Thanks for the sanity check....
Mike, good point. Thanks for the sanity check....
ORIGINAL: mikethebike
I can't type. I meant to say a THREE (3) row....like the one I have. Sorry about that. But I still vote for the copper-brass due to cost, repairability. I know the aluminum ones are better and lighter but on a street car I can't justify the additional expense. Same with electric fans. Just another expense and level of complexity I don't need. I use a S/S 10,000 rpm Flex-a-Lite that pulls so much air at idle you need to block the air flow with a piece of cardboard to adjust the idle mix/speed. It weighs almost nothing (very little load on the water pump), and flattens-out as you build rpm. If I was to use an electric fan I would do as a co-worker did with his FF Cobra and that was to also go with an electricly driven water pump. Then you would see a power increase on the dyno. And being the control freak I am they would be manually operated by a toggel switch.
ORIGINAL: Soaring
Yeah but somehow the old two rows don't do the trick anymore. The 2 rows just do not cool our classic engines. That is a given,and not an arguable conversation.It's a fact. The old two rows just have to be replaced. with either a 3-4 row copper or a 2 rowaluminum rad.
ORIGINAL: Arcticspook
Mike, good point. Thanks for the sanity check....
Mike, good point. Thanks for the sanity check....
I have a Fluidyne that I got form Mustangs Unlimited in GA and love it. It was the best "single item" purchase of the entire project. As I recall, It was rather pricey, but it dropped right in and is ultra-functional. I looked at all the posts here on overheating and decided it would be money well spent.
ORIGINAL: scouttrooper
I have a Fluidyne that I got form Mustangs Unlimited in GA and love it. It was the best "single item" purchase of the entire project. As I recall, It was rather pricey, but it dropped right in and is ultra-functional. I looked at all the posts here on overheating and decided it would be money well spent.
I have a Fluidyne that I got form Mustangs Unlimited in GA and love it. It was the best "single item" purchase of the entire project. As I recall, It was rather pricey, but it dropped right in and is ultra-functional. I looked at all the posts here on overheating and decided it would be money well spent.
Could be right or could be wrong, I am just the middle man!

ORIGINAL: Soaring
I agree 100%. That is what I am running, except my rad is a four row and I have an overflow tank. I never see the gauge get above halfway even during the summer with the air con on.
ORIGINAL: mikethebike
I can't type. I meant to say a THREE (3) row....like the one I have. Sorry about that. But I still vote for the copper-brass due to cost, repairability. I know the aluminum ones are better and lighter but on a street car I can't justify the additional expense. Same with electric fans. Just another expense and level of complexity I don't need. I use a S/S 10,000 rpm Flex-a-Lite that pulls so much air at idle you need to block the air flow with a piece of cardboard to adjust the idle mix/speed. It weighs almost nothing (very little load on the water pump), and flattens-out as you build rpm. If I was to use an electric fan I would do as a co-worker did with his FF Cobra and that was to also go with an electricly driven water pump. Then you would see a power increase on the dyno. And being the control freak I am they would be manually operated by a toggel switch.
ORIGINAL: Soaring
Yeah but somehow the old two rows don't do the trick anymore. The 2 rows just do not cool our classic engines. That is a given,and not an arguable conversation. It's a fact. The old two rows just have to be replaced. with either a 3-4 row copper or a 2 row aluminum rad.
ORIGINAL: Arcticspook
Mike, good point. Thanks for the sanity check....
Mike, good point. Thanks for the sanity check....
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