Classic Mustangs (Tech) Technical discussions about the Mustangs of yester-year.

Bigger Radiator?

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Old Apr 30, 2007 | 02:56 PM
  #11  
mikethebike's Avatar
mikethebike
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Default RE: Bigger Radiator?

ORIGINAL: Arcticspook

Thanks....I am going to go ahead and get the Be Cool radiator. It's a tad pricey, but I am willing to pay for the peace of mind...
Don't waste your money on an aluminum unit, the2 row copper/brass worked on 428 c/j's.....it'll work on your 302...plus it can be repaired.
Old Apr 30, 2007 | 11:08 PM
  #12  
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Default RE: Bigger Radiator?

Mike, good point. Thanks for the sanity check....
Old Apr 30, 2007 | 11:22 PM
  #13  
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Default RE: Bigger Radiator?

ORIGINAL: Arcticspook

Mike, good point. Thanks for the sanity check....
Yeah but somehow the old two rows don't do the trick anymore. The 2 rows just do not cool our classic engines. That is a given,and not an arguable conversation.It's a fact. The old two rows just have to be replaced. with either a 3-4 row copper or a 2 rowaluminum rad.
Old May 1, 2007 | 11:01 AM
  #14  
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mikethebike
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Default RE: Bigger Radiator?


ORIGINAL: Soaring

ORIGINAL: Arcticspook

Mike, good point. Thanks for the sanity check....
Yeah but somehow the old two rows don't do the trick anymore. The 2 rows just do not cool our classic engines. That is a given,and not an arguable conversation. It's a fact. The old two rows just have to be replaced. with either a 3-4 row copper or a 2 row aluminum rad.
I can't type. I meant to say a THREE (3) row....like the one I have. Sorry about that. But I still vote for the copper-brass due to cost, repairability. I know the aluminum ones are better and lighter but on a street car I can't justify the additional expense. Same with electric fans. Just another expense and level of complexity I don't need. I use a S/S 10,000 rpm Flex-a-Lite that pulls so much air at idle you need to block the air flow with a piece of cardboard to adjust the idle mix/speed. It weighs almost nothing (very little load on the water pump), and flattens-out as you build rpm. If I was to use an electric fan I would do as a co-worker did with his FF Cobra and that was to also go with an electricly driven water pump. Then you would see a power increase on the dyno. And being the control freak I am they would be manually operated by a toggel switch.
Old May 1, 2007 | 11:13 AM
  #15  
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remicks
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Default RE: Bigger Radiator?

Hey JamesW what radiator did you get from AFCO, part number? I'm doing a late model FI 5.0 swap in my car, thanks.

Nevermind, I decided to read your link, thanks.
Old May 1, 2007 | 11:37 AM
  #16  
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Default RE: Bigger Radiator?

ORIGINAL: mikethebike


ORIGINAL: Soaring

ORIGINAL: Arcticspook

Mike, good point. Thanks for the sanity check....
Yeah but somehow the old two rows don't do the trick anymore. The 2 rows just do not cool our classic engines. That is a given,and not an arguable conversation.It's a fact. The old two rows just have to be replaced. with either a 3-4 row copper or a 2 rowaluminum rad.
I can't type. I meant to say a THREE (3) row....like the one I have. Sorry about that. But I still vote for the copper-brass due to cost, repairability. I know the aluminum ones are better and lighter but on a street car I can't justify the additional expense. Same with electric fans. Just another expense and level of complexity I don't need. I use a S/S 10,000 rpm Flex-a-Lite that pulls so much air at idle you need to block the air flow with a piece of cardboard to adjust the idle mix/speed. It weighs almost nothing (very little load on the water pump), and flattens-out as you build rpm. If I was to use an electric fan I would do as a co-worker did with his FF Cobra and that was to also go with an electricly driven water pump. Then you would see a power increase on the dyno. And being the control freak I am they would be manually operated by a toggel switch.
I agree 100%. That is what I am running, except my rad is a four row and I have an overflow tank. I never see the gauge get above halfway even during the summer with the air con on.
Old May 1, 2007 | 03:51 PM
  #17  
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Default RE: Bigger Radiator?

I have a Fluidyne that I got form Mustangs Unlimited in GA and love it. It was the best "single item" purchase of the entire project. As I recall, It was rather pricey, but it dropped right in and is ultra-functional. I looked at all the posts here on overheating and decided it would be money well spent.
Old May 1, 2007 | 04:56 PM
  #18  
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Default RE: Bigger Radiator?

ORIGINAL: scouttrooper

I have a Fluidyne that I got form Mustangs Unlimited in GA and love it. It was the best "single item" purchase of the entire project. As I recall, It was rather pricey, but it dropped right in and is ultra-functional. I looked at all the posts here on overheating and decided it would be money well spent.
A while back Hot Rod magizine did some dyno tests with various fan setups. The results they published showed that fan/clutch setups were way more efficient than any other type of engine driven fan. They were more efficient at cooling the engine, and more efficient with the regard to the horsepower required to do so.

Could be right or could be wrong, I am just the middle man!
Old May 1, 2007 | 05:08 PM
  #19  
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james_topless67
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Default RE: Bigger Radiator?

I have a 4 row copper rad in my 67. The temp quage has never gone above the 1/3 mark. I have driven the car in Houston traffic to work with no problems.
Old May 1, 2007 | 05:36 PM
  #20  
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mikethebike
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Posts: 551
Default RE: Bigger Radiator?


ORIGINAL: Soaring

ORIGINAL: mikethebike


ORIGINAL: Soaring

ORIGINAL: Arcticspook

Mike, good point. Thanks for the sanity check....
Yeah but somehow the old two rows don't do the trick anymore. The 2 rows just do not cool our classic engines. That is a given,and not an arguable conversation. It's a fact. The old two rows just have to be replaced. with either a 3-4 row copper or a 2 row aluminum rad.
I can't type. I meant to say a THREE (3) row....like the one I have. Sorry about that. But I still vote for the copper-brass due to cost, repairability. I know the aluminum ones are better and lighter but on a street car I can't justify the additional expense. Same with electric fans. Just another expense and level of complexity I don't need. I use a S/S 10,000 rpm Flex-a-Lite that pulls so much air at idle you need to block the air flow with a piece of cardboard to adjust the idle mix/speed. It weighs almost nothing (very little load on the water pump), and flattens-out as you build rpm. If I was to use an electric fan I would do as a co-worker did with his FF Cobra and that was to also go with an electricly driven water pump. Then you would see a power increase on the dyno. And being the control freak I am they would be manually operated by a toggel switch.
I agree 100%. That is what I am running, except my rad is a four row and I have an overflow tank. I never see the gauge get above halfway even during the summer with the air con on.
I once used an anti-freeze jug with a hole drilled in the cap for the hose as qan overflow tank. Worked great, held 1 gallon.....looked getto as Hell.
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