I prefer not shattering my teeth. When I lived in FL, I had Konis, for years. When I moved to PA, The Konis were making my hair fall out, so I sold them and used the money to get the Kayaba Gas-A-Just. I've been very happy since then.

 

ok, So if i'm going to go with a 351 based stroker should i get different springs up front then if i were going 289-302 based. My rear tires are almost touching the fenders in the rear so it must have been lowered in the back? I do have 17" TT

 

The 351W stroker or stock does not weigh much more than a 289/302 and with alum. heads probably less than a stock 302 w/iron heads. If you're looking for a firm but not jarring or race track stiff ride I'd go with 550-620 springs, the big block springs will be too stiff IMO. If you want to bring the front down a little you can get 1" drop springs in these wts. also or you can get stock springs and cut 1/4 or 1/2 coil at a time and test fit until you get the ht. you want. As mentioned I went 1" drop w/ 1" Shelby/Arning drop and my 15" tires are level with my fender lips.

Take a look at your axles where the springs bolt to them and see if there are lowering blocks installed http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/ProdImages/LB106-C.jpg . If not the rear leafs may just be shot and sagging (40+yrs.) as mentioned airshocks are usually a sign that someone tried to stop the rear suspension from moving through it's travel due to rubbing or to jack up the rear to 'fix' sagging. Most leafs come standard (high back end like the cars were orginal ~2"+ above the tires) mideye (drops it ~2" to bring it ~level with tire tops, what I have) or reverse eye (3"+ drop puts the tires into the fender well if they're tucked). What ride height are you looking for?

When you have one of your tires of you need to measure your backspacing on the rims - distance from the back mounting area of the rim to the lip of the back of the rim = 3.75", 4.25", etc.
Jon