Heads for a 302
I have a 302 and wanted to hear your suggestions for new heads. My 302 has stock internals but i do have a new air gap manifold, holley carb, and MSD ignition system. What are your suggestions for good performing heads? If I change the heads should I change the cam? any ideas?
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks,
Mike
hi Mike,
i was convinced you'll keep them for a while. are they fried?
In case they're good, port them (at least exhaust side).
I have the performer rpm 6025 (2.02/1.6) and they're quite ok heads.
for a superbang I'd suggest afr165 or TF twisted wedge.
for the AFRs I heard a few times on the boards that there seem to be problems with the valves (quality), never heard bad aubout the Trickflows, but they relocate the angle for the valves, so there's more fitment work required (no way the stock pushrods will fit etc). Don't forget to look into the GT40s (cast irons), but I love the effect of the difference in front end weight of my alum heads *g* that was nearly as big a difference in driving as putting in the eport brace and monte carlo bar
well .. then there are cheaper options. There are the proforms (or something like that). Don't know about them. But know that JMD bought a set and resold it straight away
then the edelbrocks do e-street heads which are way cheaper than the rpms
thats the 1.9 intake version:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5023/
and don't forget the ford racing ones. Jegs has currently an offer.
I have _not_ checked if they'll fit, I just remembered getting an email
http://www.jegs.com/p/Ford-Racing/Fo...72287/10002/-1
well ... what's the reason? and yes, of course change the cam with it
i was convinced you'll keep them for a while. are they fried?
In case they're good, port them (at least exhaust side).
I have the performer rpm 6025 (2.02/1.6) and they're quite ok heads.
for a superbang I'd suggest afr165 or TF twisted wedge.
for the AFRs I heard a few times on the boards that there seem to be problems with the valves (quality), never heard bad aubout the Trickflows, but they relocate the angle for the valves, so there's more fitment work required (no way the stock pushrods will fit etc). Don't forget to look into the GT40s (cast irons), but I love the effect of the difference in front end weight of my alum heads *g* that was nearly as big a difference in driving as putting in the eport brace and monte carlo bar
well .. then there are cheaper options. There are the proforms (or something like that). Don't know about them. But know that JMD bought a set and resold it straight away
then the edelbrocks do e-street heads which are way cheaper than the rpms
thats the 1.9 intake version:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5023/
and don't forget the ford racing ones. Jegs has currently an offer.
I have _not_ checked if they'll fit, I just remembered getting an email
http://www.jegs.com/p/Ford-Racing/Fo...72287/10002/-1
well ... what's the reason? and yes, of course change the cam with it
Last edited by kalli; Feb 12, 2010 at 09:11 AM.
I have to agree, if your heads are OK, cleaning up the exhaust ports can make a great difference on stock heads.
A guy I know slightly posted results of his engine work on another forum. Using formerly horrible 289 smog heads, and a C9OZ-C cam, his home-ported engine turned 321 hp on the dyno run-in.
A guy I know slightly posted results of his engine work on another forum. Using formerly horrible 289 smog heads, and a C9OZ-C cam, his home-ported engine turned 321 hp on the dyno run-in.
I'm not a fan of the Ford Racing aluminum head options. They're not bad, but for a couple hundred more you're in Edelbrock territory.
I love my Trick Flows. You'll have no valve clearance issues with them, and quality is great. The twisted wedge valve design provides better flow at low-lift numbers than a lot of other inline-valve heads.
Keep in mind, you'll need new rockers and pushrods with new heads. You can't use the factory pushrods with any aftermarket head because all of them utilize pushrod guideplates which require hardened pushrods.
I'd recommend replacing the cam (and consequently the timing set and lifters) with the heads. The stock cam won't take full advantage of a new set of heads any more than the stock heads will take full advantage of a new cam.
I love my Trick Flows. You'll have no valve clearance issues with them, and quality is great. The twisted wedge valve design provides better flow at low-lift numbers than a lot of other inline-valve heads.
Keep in mind, you'll need new rockers and pushrods with new heads. You can't use the factory pushrods with any aftermarket head because all of them utilize pushrod guideplates which require hardened pushrods.
I'd recommend replacing the cam (and consequently the timing set and lifters) with the heads. The stock cam won't take full advantage of a new set of heads any more than the stock heads will take full advantage of a new cam.
One of the most important considerations to consider is how the engine will be used and driven. Will it see high RPM, or mostly mid range? The key to having a great engine is making sure that everything works together in the RPM range it will mostly see.
C3AZ-V stock cam 266°/233° duration, .360"/.380" lift
C3OZ-C 289HP 310° duration, .477" lift
I'm not a fan of the Ford Racing aluminum head options. They're not bad, but for a couple hundred more you're in Edelbrock territory.
I love my Trick Flows. You'll have no valve clearance issues with them, and quality is great. The twisted wedge valve design provides better flow at low-lift numbers than a lot of other inline-valve heads.
Keep in mind, you'll need new rockers and pushrods with new heads. You can't use the factory pushrods with any aftermarket head because all of them utilize pushrod guideplates which require hardened pushrods.
I'd recommend replacing the cam (and consequently the timing set and lifters) with the heads. The stock cam won't take full advantage of a new set of heads any more than the stock heads will take full advantage of a new cam.
I love my Trick Flows. You'll have no valve clearance issues with them, and quality is great. The twisted wedge valve design provides better flow at low-lift numbers than a lot of other inline-valve heads.
Keep in mind, you'll need new rockers and pushrods with new heads. You can't use the factory pushrods with any aftermarket head because all of them utilize pushrod guideplates which require hardened pushrods.
I'd recommend replacing the cam (and consequently the timing set and lifters) with the heads. The stock cam won't take full advantage of a new set of heads any more than the stock heads will take full advantage of a new cam.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




