It Happened!
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 678
From: Smyrna, TN
I'd hang that on the garage wall.
I tried to do an affordable quality build and discussed it with my engine builder who has competed in the Engine Masters challenge a few times.
I ended up with an Eagle cast crank, Eagle 5140 Steel SIR I-beam rods and KB hyperteutectic pistons. This is in a stroker but I'm sure they sell stock size stuff too.
I also went with a compcams XE262 which was the tallest cam that still puts out close to stock vacuum for my PB & AC. It's a hydraulic flat tappet cam though and I've got AFR heads w/screw in studs. I don't know about the rollers but rule of thumb with the stock heads is anything close to .500 lift and you are getting close to pulling the studs out if they're pressed. You can download CC Camquest program and play with it putting in different variables and it'll suggest 3-4 cams. I like changing things to see what it does to cam suggestion.
Sorry for your troubles, I'm curious to see what let go when you get the pan off. You sure the rods were put back in the same order they came out? Did you use new rod bolts?
I take it you reused the original crank, rods, pistons and just did new bearings and rings. Was the proper torque sequence followed, bearing preload checked, crank turned, etc?
I don't know about the later motors but the early 289/302 are said to have weak rod bolts and I went with ARP on forum suggestion and builders suggestion.
Jon
I tried to do an affordable quality build and discussed it with my engine builder who has competed in the Engine Masters challenge a few times.
I ended up with an Eagle cast crank, Eagle 5140 Steel SIR I-beam rods and KB hyperteutectic pistons. This is in a stroker but I'm sure they sell stock size stuff too.
I also went with a compcams XE262 which was the tallest cam that still puts out close to stock vacuum for my PB & AC. It's a hydraulic flat tappet cam though and I've got AFR heads w/screw in studs. I don't know about the rollers but rule of thumb with the stock heads is anything close to .500 lift and you are getting close to pulling the studs out if they're pressed. You can download CC Camquest program and play with it putting in different variables and it'll suggest 3-4 cams. I like changing things to see what it does to cam suggestion.
Sorry for your troubles, I'm curious to see what let go when you get the pan off. You sure the rods were put back in the same order they came out? Did you use new rod bolts?
I take it you reused the original crank, rods, pistons and just did new bearings and rings. Was the proper torque sequence followed, bearing preload checked, crank turned, etc?
I don't know about the later motors but the early 289/302 are said to have weak rod bolts and I went with ARP on forum suggestion and builders suggestion.
Jon
Last edited by Jonk67; May 25, 2011 at 10:41 PM.
Thread Starter
ROTM Moderator
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 8,157
From: AL
Actually was a new oem crank. I used a different set of pistons(HO) and rods(F2) than what came out. And yes, I have less than 50 miles on the engine since I put it together. it shouldn't have done this so we are going to see what happened.