Ok so I just bought a car that runs and drives good... for about 10 minutes. The engine starts bogging then shuts off and wont start for another 10 minutes. The fuel filter and air flow sensor have already been replaced and did not fix the problem.

This video shows the tachometer when the problem occurs:
http://www.mediafire.com/?i7ubpe87ksefdqd

I started thinking maybe its the alternator? I just wanted to make sure before I waste my money. Or do you have any other ideas?

 

What kind of car and what motor is in it? Have you had codes pulled? Here in Texas we have a local parts store called AutoZone that will pull codes at no charge, which is the way I would rec you going to at least get an idea as to where to start.

Could be anything from vapor lock to overheating fuel pump to a crank sensor to a...

 

Car is a 93 Ford Probe GT. It has a tiny 2.5l v6. The check engine light is not on so im not sure if codes will come up. And our AutoZones in Pa will only check 96 or newer for free. I've had some other people tell me its the fuel pump overheating too. Is there any way to find out for sure?

 

This is the only car I have that's drivable right now so quick help would be appreciated

 

Ok here's an update. The car started right up this morning and ran perfect for 10 mins then died again. I wanted to see if it was the fuel pump overheating so i tried starting it with starting fluid. The engine didn't even sputter with it, so it can't be the fuel pump. Although, I did notice something. After turning it over for a couple mins, the exhaust started sounding like the engine was out of timing. I did a little more research and I'm almost positive its the crank position sensor because all the symptoms with a bad sensor matched what my car is doing. So I guess I'll spend my last bit of money on the sensor and pray that it works. Unless somebody thinks otherwise?

 

So.. Even though the check engine light does not come on, I grounded the STI pin and got a code 28 which is EGR vacuum solenoid. And that sucks.. I'm taking the top route instead of messing with the exhaust and cross member because it has a valve tap that needs to be fixed. Anyway, I did not think anything to do with the EGR would kill the engine.. So am I looking at multiple problems here? Or can the solenoid actually stop it from running?

 

EGR issues can cause a wide array of drivability problems, including not running or dying. Service the EGR, and your problem will most likely go away.

 

i know this is a probe we are talking about! i took my 99 chevy truck and blocked the egr valve. now the truck runs like it used to! you might try and see if you can block it. be much cheaper..

 

I have been thinking about that and I might do it. I'd like to get it back to normal but if I can't then deleting the whole system will be the next step. I just don't want the check engine light on all the time.