Stock Sound System Or Aftermarket Amp
#1
Stock Sound System Or Aftermarket Amp
Hiya,
I just bought a CarPC for my car. Now, I need to run the sound through a amp and then out to my speakers, so what size amp do you think I need to power all the speakers in the car? Would I need another amp to power a sub if I get one?
Do we have a built in amp in our cars?
~Fred
I just bought a CarPC for my car. Now, I need to run the sound through a amp and then out to my speakers, so what size amp do you think I need to power all the speakers in the car? Would I need another amp to power a sub if I get one?
Do we have a built in amp in our cars?
~Fred
#3
RE: Stock Sound System Or Aftermarket Amp
that looks about right if you are actually doing 5.1 surround, and even then you must bridge two channels from the 6ch amp to run a center channel (which is this case is not a center channel at all unless you are running three sets of RCAs back from the 5.1 decoder). i suggest running a 4ch instead while not running a center channel, which would achieve 4.1 surround sound and be alot cheaper/less complicated than 5.1.
there is one other thing you are leaving out: dc-->ac power inverter. you either need one, or need a dc-dc power supply in your car-pc, both of which cost about the same, but the power supply simplifies the whole process. go to www.mp3car.com and do some reading if you are serious about doing this. mind you, you will need voltage amplification somewhere between the pc sound car the the amp if you want it to sound good at reasonable volume without clipping the hell out of the signal, and i highly recommend some active crossovers of at least 18db/octave for good channel seperation. did i mention a new battery, 300$ in wiring (or more if you get really good monster cable, scoshe, etc), RF keyboard and mouse, and new speakers because the stock ones won't handle more than 20watts rms very reliably (except the door subs in the shaker system ~50-75rms and the trunk subs ~125-150rms). basically, replace everything starting from scratch would make it worth it, otherwise don't even both with amplification above what is stock and ESPECIALLY dont bother with surround sound unless you really really know what you are doing and have the deep pockets to back it up.
sry to sound rude, its unintentional side effect of doing the same thing for a couple years that you are trying to start now. computers are only for the cool factor anyway, i never had a use for it beyond gps which i never really used anyway. i recommend just doing a stereo, with an auxiliary input for a laptop
there is one other thing you are leaving out: dc-->ac power inverter. you either need one, or need a dc-dc power supply in your car-pc, both of which cost about the same, but the power supply simplifies the whole process. go to www.mp3car.com and do some reading if you are serious about doing this. mind you, you will need voltage amplification somewhere between the pc sound car the the amp if you want it to sound good at reasonable volume without clipping the hell out of the signal, and i highly recommend some active crossovers of at least 18db/octave for good channel seperation. did i mention a new battery, 300$ in wiring (or more if you get really good monster cable, scoshe, etc), RF keyboard and mouse, and new speakers because the stock ones won't handle more than 20watts rms very reliably (except the door subs in the shaker system ~50-75rms and the trunk subs ~125-150rms). basically, replace everything starting from scratch would make it worth it, otherwise don't even both with amplification above what is stock and ESPECIALLY dont bother with surround sound unless you really really know what you are doing and have the deep pockets to back it up.
sry to sound rude, its unintentional side effect of doing the same thing for a couple years that you are trying to start now. computers are only for the cool factor anyway, i never had a use for it beyond gps which i never really used anyway. i recommend just doing a stereo, with an auxiliary input for a laptop
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