It's official, UPDATED
#21
RE: It's official, I have the....
Viking,
My only mods are JLT II CAI and EVO 93 Octane tune. First time I went the air was "bad", hot and wet 85 degrees and 90% humidity.
My best run was:
2.058 - 60 ft
8.854@81.61 - 1/8 mile
13.619@103.52 - 1/4 mile
I had problems all night hooking up and was launching about 1200 rpm. If I launched at 2000 I would get a good bit of spin and have a 2.15-2.20 60 foot. All of this was on stock air pressures.
The last time I went to the track I could not get within a tenth of that time and stayed in the 13.7's pretty much all night. The air was much better and I lowered my rear tires to 22 psi. I seemed to hook up better and launched higher (about 2000) but could not match the 60' or 1/4 time. I did let the car wind out more on the last few runs to see if I could get the times down but it did not seem to help that night. I even took it to 6500, didn't feel the car fall off but I ran a 13.8 that run. Not sure if it was due to the high r's or something else.
I don't have a cure for you except to say go back and try it again. What tune are you running? Oh, and I never shift into 4th, usually go through the traps right at 6K in 3rd. That may change, I have some 4.10's coming this week.
Randy
My only mods are JLT II CAI and EVO 93 Octane tune. First time I went the air was "bad", hot and wet 85 degrees and 90% humidity.
My best run was:
2.058 - 60 ft
8.854@81.61 - 1/8 mile
13.619@103.52 - 1/4 mile
I had problems all night hooking up and was launching about 1200 rpm. If I launched at 2000 I would get a good bit of spin and have a 2.15-2.20 60 foot. All of this was on stock air pressures.
The last time I went to the track I could not get within a tenth of that time and stayed in the 13.7's pretty much all night. The air was much better and I lowered my rear tires to 22 psi. I seemed to hook up better and launched higher (about 2000) but could not match the 60' or 1/4 time. I did let the car wind out more on the last few runs to see if I could get the times down but it did not seem to help that night. I even took it to 6500, didn't feel the car fall off but I ran a 13.8 that run. Not sure if it was due to the high r's or something else.
I don't have a cure for you except to say go back and try it again. What tune are you running? Oh, and I never shift into 4th, usually go through the traps right at 6K in 3rd. That may change, I have some 4.10's coming this week.
Randy
#22
RE: It's official, I have the....
ORIGINAL: viking396
Am I just seeing too many people claiming to run mid 13's on just a CAI and Tune, can they all be lying? The Tunable Induction CAI is supposed to add a pinch over 20rwhp which should help but the damn magazines have claimed mid 13's in stock form..... ahh well.
ORIGINAL: MusiccityGT
+1 My best run in Bowling Green was a 13.4. The fastest time from the other 5 or 6 05/06 GT's was a 13.9 and the others never broke a 14. Track conditions and altitude come into play bigtime.
+1 My best run in Bowling Green was a 13.4. The fastest time from the other 5 or 6 05/06 GT's was a 13.9 and the others never broke a 14. Track conditions and altitude come into play bigtime.
I have seen stock GT's run mid 13's.
I ran 13.5's when I was stock in my n/a saleen but Ihave 3.73 gears (or I did before I went to 4.10) and I had 30 more hp and I ran 13.5 so though the average driver should hit 13.6-13.8.
So no I dont think everyone is lying
#24
RE: It's official, I have the....
ORIGINAL: Fly
These heads will make power at 6500 rpm without being worked, period. Mine does, as does another person that has posted on this thread. But I will suggest that it is a possibility that your tune might be a little lean (13 or higher) and that the processor might be pulling some timing resulting in your power flattening out. I would recommend checking your A/F ratio before trying the 6500 rpm shift point.
These heads will make power at 6500 rpm without being worked, period. Mine does, as does another person that has posted on this thread. But I will suggest that it is a possibility that your tune might be a little lean (13 or higher) and that the processor might be pulling some timing resulting in your power flattening out. I would recommend checking your A/F ratio before trying the 6500 rpm shift point.
#25
RE: It's official, I have the....
ORIGINAL: Rypper1
Viking,
My only mods are JLT II CAI and EVO 93 Octane tune. First time I went the air was "bad", hot and wet 85 degrees and 90% humidity.
My best run was:
2.058 - 60 ft
8.854@81.61 - 1/8 mile
13.619@103.52 - 1/4 mile
I had problems all night hooking up and was launching about 1200 rpm. If I launched at 2000 I would get a good bit of spin and have a 2.15-2.20 60 foot. All of this was on stock air pressures.
The last time I went to the track I could not get within a tenth of that time and stayed in the 13.7's pretty much all night. The air was much better and I lowered my rear tires to 22 psi. I seemed to hook up better and launched higher (about 2000) but could not match the 60' or 1/4 time. I did let the car wind out more on the last few runs to see if I could get the times down but it did not seem to help that night. I even took it to 6500, didn't feel the car fall off but I ran a 13.8 that run. Not sure if it was due to the high r's or something else.
I don't have a cure for you except to say go back and try it again. What tune are you running? Oh, and I never shift into 4th, usually go through the traps right at 6K in 3rd. That may change, I have some 4.10's coming this week.
Randy
Viking,
My only mods are JLT II CAI and EVO 93 Octane tune. First time I went the air was "bad", hot and wet 85 degrees and 90% humidity.
My best run was:
2.058 - 60 ft
8.854@81.61 - 1/8 mile
13.619@103.52 - 1/4 mile
I had problems all night hooking up and was launching about 1200 rpm. If I launched at 2000 I would get a good bit of spin and have a 2.15-2.20 60 foot. All of this was on stock air pressures.
The last time I went to the track I could not get within a tenth of that time and stayed in the 13.7's pretty much all night. The air was much better and I lowered my rear tires to 22 psi. I seemed to hook up better and launched higher (about 2000) but could not match the 60' or 1/4 time. I did let the car wind out more on the last few runs to see if I could get the times down but it did not seem to help that night. I even took it to 6500, didn't feel the car fall off but I ran a 13.8 that run. Not sure if it was due to the high r's or something else.
I don't have a cure for you except to say go back and try it again. What tune are you running? Oh, and I never shift into 4th, usually go through the traps right at 6K in 3rd. That may change, I have some 4.10's coming this week.
Randy
Also, if I seem a bit combative guys I apologize, I'm used to being the one to help others figure out why they aren't getting the ET's they expected, I've never had a car perform under my expectations but heck, I keep hearing nail her to over 6k so after I confirm the tune today I'm taking that SOB to the track tomorrow and shifting at minimum 6300 and keeping her in 3rd through the traps.
#26
RE: It's official, I have the....
ORIGINAL: cableguymicah
I have seen stock GT's run mid 13's.
I ran 13.5's when I was stock in my n/a saleen but Ihave 3.73 gears (or I did before I went to 4.10) and I had 30 more hp and I ran 13.5 so though the average driver should hit 13.6-13.8.
So no I dont think everyone is lying
ORIGINAL: viking396
Am I just seeing too many people claiming to run mid 13's on just a CAI and Tune, can they all be lying? The Tunable Induction CAI is supposed to add a pinch over 20rwhp which should help but the damn magazines have claimed mid 13's in stock form..... ahh well.
ORIGINAL: MusiccityGT
+1 My best run in Bowling Green was a 13.4. The fastest time from the other 5 or 6 05/06 GT's was a 13.9 and the others never broke a 14. Track conditions and altitude come into play bigtime.
+1 My best run in Bowling Green was a 13.4. The fastest time from the other 5 or 6 05/06 GT's was a 13.9 and the others never broke a 14. Track conditions and altitude come into play bigtime.
I have seen stock GT's run mid 13's.
I ran 13.5's when I was stock in my n/a saleen but Ihave 3.73 gears (or I did before I went to 4.10) and I had 30 more hp and I ran 13.5 so though the average driver should hit 13.6-13.8.
So no I dont think everyone is lying
#29
RE: It's official, I have the....
I read through all the posts and their were some very good points. Whether you have stock gears, 3.73, or 4.10's, etc. your car should be running through the traps at maximum RPM range. On the stock gears, you should be running through the traps at almost redline in 3rd. With me and current 4.10's, I'm hitting the traps at around 6600 rpm in 4th.
Taking a look at your slips (thanks for providing them it helped a lot) I'm convinced your shift points are playing a major role. I think your damage is done by the 1/8th. Your 1/8 times are slow IMO and should be in the 81-86 mph range. Passing the 1/8 in the high 70's is already setting you up to play 'catch-up' down the rest of the track. I have talked before about the 'torque nanny' and I think this is coming to play with you as well. To recap what it is...
There is a program within the computer that is linked to your rev limiter. To ease the stress on the motor of the rev limiter engaging, the car slightly pulls timing just before the rev limiter is engaged (about 200-300 rpm before) it is not audible or noticable, but does pull your power. If you are shifting very close to the rev limiter, you will expereince this 'early peak out' even if you don't bump the limiter. The solution to this is not to go crazy with your limiter but to set it around 400 rpm over your maximum shift point. This way, you are always shifting before the program is engaged. i.e. if you plan to shift at 6500 rpm, set your limiter for 7000. Early on I had a similiar problem and it was Justin at JPC who turned me on to the rev limiter adjustments and it helped a lot.
Despite this info, it is still a matter of you're not getting the peak out of your car by the 1/8. My guess is that slight spin at the line is costing you and your starting 2nd gear a little lower RPM than is optimal. Then I think you're shifting just a little early at 3rd because of your low rpm 2nd shift. Ideally, you want to make all your shifts in your peak power range and getting a little spin off the line is enough to throw everything off. Try launching at a point where you get no spin (or the smallest) and bang 2nd around 6200-6300. I don't actually agree with those telling you to shift at 6500. If you're making peak power at 6200, that's where you want to shift and you know that. Getting a dyno is imperative at the very least just to be able to see where your peak curve is. I personally think 6500 will be high for your set-up and think you'll find your shift points are going to be in the 6200-6400 rpm range. But I don't know your car so it could be as high as 6600 but we won't know without the dyno, ya know? Either way, the main point is that 1-2 shift and getting off the line better. As I said, forget about concentrating on the whole track, the damage is being done by the 1/8. Keep focused on that and work on getting your mph up there and the rest is just the 'ride'.
Taking a look at your slips (thanks for providing them it helped a lot) I'm convinced your shift points are playing a major role. I think your damage is done by the 1/8th. Your 1/8 times are slow IMO and should be in the 81-86 mph range. Passing the 1/8 in the high 70's is already setting you up to play 'catch-up' down the rest of the track. I have talked before about the 'torque nanny' and I think this is coming to play with you as well. To recap what it is...
There is a program within the computer that is linked to your rev limiter. To ease the stress on the motor of the rev limiter engaging, the car slightly pulls timing just before the rev limiter is engaged (about 200-300 rpm before) it is not audible or noticable, but does pull your power. If you are shifting very close to the rev limiter, you will expereince this 'early peak out' even if you don't bump the limiter. The solution to this is not to go crazy with your limiter but to set it around 400 rpm over your maximum shift point. This way, you are always shifting before the program is engaged. i.e. if you plan to shift at 6500 rpm, set your limiter for 7000. Early on I had a similiar problem and it was Justin at JPC who turned me on to the rev limiter adjustments and it helped a lot.
Despite this info, it is still a matter of you're not getting the peak out of your car by the 1/8. My guess is that slight spin at the line is costing you and your starting 2nd gear a little lower RPM than is optimal. Then I think you're shifting just a little early at 3rd because of your low rpm 2nd shift. Ideally, you want to make all your shifts in your peak power range and getting a little spin off the line is enough to throw everything off. Try launching at a point where you get no spin (or the smallest) and bang 2nd around 6200-6300. I don't actually agree with those telling you to shift at 6500. If you're making peak power at 6200, that's where you want to shift and you know that. Getting a dyno is imperative at the very least just to be able to see where your peak curve is. I personally think 6500 will be high for your set-up and think you'll find your shift points are going to be in the 6200-6400 rpm range. But I don't know your car so it could be as high as 6600 but we won't know without the dyno, ya know? Either way, the main point is that 1-2 shift and getting off the line better. As I said, forget about concentrating on the whole track, the damage is being done by the 1/8. Keep focused on that and work on getting your mph up there and the rest is just the 'ride'.
#30
RE: It's official, I have the....
ORIGINAL: chevykiller
I read through all the posts and their were some very good points. Whether you have stock gears, 3.73, or 4.10's, etc. your car should be running through the traps at maximum RPM range. On the stock gears, you should be running through the traps at almost redline in 3rd. With me and current 4.10's, I'm hitting the traps at around 6600 rpm in 4th.
I read through all the posts and their were some very good points. Whether you have stock gears, 3.73, or 4.10's, etc. your car should be running through the traps at maximum RPM range. On the stock gears, you should be running through the traps at almost redline in 3rd. With me and current 4.10's, I'm hitting the traps at around 6600 rpm in 4th.
Taking a look at your slips (thanks for providing them it helped a lot) I'm convinced your shift points are playing a major role. I think your damage is done by the 1/8th. Your 1/8 times are slow IMO and should be in the 81-86 mph range. Passing the 1/8 in the high 70's is already setting you up to play 'catch-up' down the rest of the track. I have talked before about the 'torque nanny' and I think this is coming to play with you as well. To recap what it is...
There is a program within the computer that is linked to your rev limiter. To ease the stress on the motor of the rev limiter engaging, the car slightly pulls timing just before the rev limiter is engaged (about 200-300 rpm before) it is not audible or noticable, but does pull your power. If you are shifting very close to the rev limiter, you will expereince this 'early peak out' even if you don't bump the limiter. The solution to this is not to go crazy with your limiter but to set it around 400 rpm over your maximum shift point. This way, you are always shifting before the program is engaged. i.e. if you plan to shift at 6500 rpm, set your limiter for 7000. Early on I had a similiar problem and it was Justin at JPC who turned me on to the rev limiter adjustments and it helped a lot.
Despite this info, it is still a matter of you're not getting the peak out of your car by the 1/8. My guess is that slight spin at the line is costing you and your starting 2nd gear a little lower RPM than is optimal. Then I think you're shifting just a little early at 3rd because of your low rpm 2nd shift. Ideally, you want to make all your shifts in your peak power range and getting a little spin off the line is enough to throw everything off. Try launching at a point where you get no spin (or the smallest) and bang 2nd around 6200-6300. I don't actually agree with those telling you to shift at 6500. If you're making peak power at 6200, that's where you want to shift and you know that. Getting a dyno is imperative at the very least just to be able to see where your peak curve is. I personally think 6500 will be high for your set-up and think you'll find your shift points are going to be in the 6200-6400 rpm range. But I don't know your car so it could be as high as 6600 but we won't know without the dyno, ya know? Either way, the main point is that 1-2 shift and getting off the line better. As I said, forget about concentrating on the whole track, the damage is being done by the 1/8. Keep focused on that and work on getting your mph up there and the rest is just the 'ride'.
Thanks everybody for your input, now we’ll see how it does tomorrow weather permitting!