line-out converter
#1
line-out converter
hey guys,
i'm curious if there is a special line-out converter i need for the shaker 500. i had everything hooked up last night good power, power to the sub, but no signal. it's possible my line out is broken, but i doubt that. is there a special kind that i need or a special range of impedence? mine is 10k ohms.
thanks for your help guys and gals
i'm curious if there is a special line-out converter i need for the shaker 500. i had everything hooked up last night good power, power to the sub, but no signal. it's possible my line out is broken, but i doubt that. is there a special kind that i need or a special range of impedence? mine is 10k ohms.
thanks for your help guys and gals
#2
RE: line-out converter
must not have been an attractive subject if i'm replying to my own post....does anybody have a line-out converter that has worked for them? please recommend any brands...or models etc.
#3
RE: line-out converter
Did you hook it up to the voice coils that come out of the factory amps and lead to the subs? The two speakers in the back are actually mid-range speakers and don't send out a low enough frequency for bass. The amps are located above the driver side kick panel, let me know if you've hooked the line-out converter there or not. Don't have the info for which wires to tap at this moment, but if you haven't already tried that I could get it for you.
#5
RE: line-out converter
Here are the full instructions I will add which wires to tap later (from a previous post): No you can not connect to the 5x7's in the back, please do not waste your time trying! I have been there and done that, and it is very frustrating. The only way to hook up a line-converter is to hook it up to the voice coils for both left and right amps leading to the subs in the doors. The problem is there isn't a low enough frequency going to the 5x7's. If you plan to keep your factory stereo and connect an amp, you will need an add-a-circuit fuse tap to power the remote wire. Plug the add a tap into the fuse slot that is not being used on the same row as the windshield wipers, and use a 10amp fuse for the remote wire, and a 5amp fuse for the accessory slot (that's the only way to get it to come on when you turn the car on). After that you have to connect speaker wire to the wires that come out of the factory amps which are located just above the driver side kisk panel. I recommend removing the connection plugs from the amp in order to tap into the wires more easily (I was limited on my toolset, and was only able to remove the one on the left, it is taped to the inside with electrical tape, and is easy to pull off and tape back. The right amp's connection bundle is behind the left one and is much harder to remove, therefore making it incredibly hard to peel back the wire plastic so that you can tap into it, especially in such a cramped space). On the left amp, tap into voice coil #1's positive and negative wires using any size speaker wire (I recommend a 20 or so, the smaller it is the easier it will be to wrap around the exposed wire), and then do the same for voice coil #1 on the right amp. Follow the directions for the line-out converter (I recommend a scosche line-out converter from Crutchfield, because they also provide support for it) and you should now have bass coming to your subs. It isn't as easy as you think, but it is worth it if you are looking to add a little bass but keep you 6 disc MP3 player.
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