Haze28

I hope some of you auto experts can help me out. I want to get a converter soon but I don't know if I want to spend alot of money on a converter that is going to have a low stall speed.
I have been told that with the advances in technology, drivability of a car with a higher stall(say 3600-3800) isn't like it used to be 15 years ago. I've been shopping around for a converter for the last month and have talked to many different people. Problem is, I keep getting conflicting answers. One person I talked to at Performance Industries told me that a higher stall would work great with the 4.10 gear and all of my other mods so far, then I talked to another person at the same place and they said any torque converter will be tricky in my car because it's very hard to tune because of the adaptability of the computer. He went on to say that a 3000-3200 would be the highest he would go on the stall. I don't know who to believe.

I also talked to a guy that builds custom converters for race cars and high HP street cars and he said he hasn't even touched anything for the 5R55 tranny yet. He said that because of certain issues with this trans he has stayed away from it for now.

If anyone can shed some light on this subject I would really appreciate it. If I can't get some solid info, i'll probably just keep the stock converter and try to loose some weight in the car.

drbobvs

If you have 4.10's i would NOT go beyond a 3000 stall speed. Yes driveability with new converters is better but the change is definitely still noticeable. I am changing back to my stock converter next week. I just can't get used to driving a car with a 'loose' converter around town. Mine only has about a 2800-3000 stall and it still sounds like the car is revving all the time. One of the other complaints I have is most aftermarket converters will not 'hold the lock' well at highway speeds.

For example, when you're ruising at 60 mph or higher, you should, with the stock converter, be able to lean into the throttle somewhat and the converter will stay locked and the engine torque should just pull youup to speed without fuss. With my aftermarket converter, just a touch of the throttle causes the thing to unlock, the engine revs go up and you sound like you're racing all the time. I find this not only unecessary, but annoying too. I spoke with Jim JR at JDM, he has a TCI converter, and he told me his does the same thing. Most aftermarket converters are single disc and just can't hold the lock like the OEM one. Perhaps the PI multi disc unit will not do this but I'm not going to spend another $900 plus install to find out.

Yes, performance has improved. I can't launch, in this cold weather, at more than 35-40% throttle or my tires just spin. My friend, who also owns a GT, drove my car and he said it feels like my rear tires are on ice, and he's correct. It's very easy to break the rear loose with my setup. But I would rather give up 3 or 4 10th's in the 1/4 mile in order to have a more civilized DD.

Oh, and the T/C has nothing to do with the adaptability of the computer, many here and elsewhere have run new T/C and I have heard of no computer issues. You can get a good tuner, like JDM, to control the point of lockupand the gears it locks upin, but there should be no running issues with these mods.

The best advice I could give you before you shell out >$1000 is to drive a car with an aftermarket T/C first!!! It's definitely a different feel.One that I thought I'd prefer.[sm=headbang.gif]

zkiller

I love my 3200 RPM stall billett converter from Level 10.
I have no drivability options at all. I would never go back to an OEM converter.

MexGT

Sup, well first of all .... TC's are NOT cheaper if they're with low stall or more expensive with higher stall, they are the same. The difference is if you get a single disc or multi disc TC.
Doug, Justin and Brent have told me TC's DO NOT need any type of tune at all. When I installed mine in my car I didnt even touched the Xcal2, just plug-n-play with the new TC and everything is perfect.
You need to talk with a guy thats an expert or very used in MUSTANG racing. Because I havent heard of any problem with the 5R55s trannys only that they can't hold good above 8 psi.

Haze28

I wasn't talking about the price difference in different stall speeds, just converters in general. I don't really want to spend the money on a converter if the stall speed is only a couple hundred RPM's over what the stock one is.

MexGT

When you buy a TC (the good ones ...) are made to your specs and you can decide how much stall you want in it, from 2450 (stock stall, just beefier TC) to 4,500 or 5,000 stall, that is up to you.

I would recomend you a 3,500 stall, absolutally fantastic for NA and very good for SC aplications also. For me its like a perfect balance.

Haze28

3500 sounds pretty efficient to me, the only other Mustang i've ever rode in with a converter was an 03 Mach1 with a 3600 stall. I know it's a very different car but it felt awsome. The girl that owns it said it doesn't bother her to drive it everyday with that stall speed. That's why I figured a higher stall would work well for my application, I just couldn't get past some of the bad info i've been getting.

MexGT

This is my DD also and I love it too

tonkpils555666sas

I say go with a 3000. I talked about my converter with JPC before I bought it. The sales guy basically told me exactly what MexGT is saying. I was told to be safe and get a 3000 stall. I believe 3000-3500 is a good range for our cars... You will be very satisfied with the results of a 3000 stall let alone 500 more rpms...! I dropped .3 seconds with the converter... the only problem was I had to feather it much more or I would spin (had street tires).

modaddict

I'm a fan of the 3000-3500 range. If you don't see much track time and primarily a daily driver and with your 4.10 gears, I would actually recommend a 3200 for you.