5.0 85 GT

haha thx man what else do u recommend for mods, im doing gears and radials, and idk if i want to supercharge it, where do u get a front sway bar delete kit? ANd 08nastygt the tuner works mint no problems thx a bunch

dysan

Most of the speed shops sell swaybar delete kits. BMR makes one, Steeda makes one as do many of the other suspension manufacturers. It looks like lethalperformance.com is a supporting vendor here since they have an add on the right. They have 3 different ones on their site.

As for other mods, that all depends on how far you are planning to go with your car and what kind of power adder if any. If you're going to go for some power you can get some good sub-frame connectors welded in (not really needed until you're pushing some good power and launching hard). Gearing depends on what your plans are...some people say for turbo keep it in the stock 3.55 range, s/c up to 3.73's unless you have some killer traction then you could possibly do 3.90 - 4.10's.

A great mod is a 1-piece aluminum driveshaft since you're dropping rotational weight and that one mod alone will get you 2-tenths in the 1/4 with a good launch. I'm still trying to figure out which way I'm headed, turbo or s/c and I've got a few months to make up my mind while I pay off my motor build.

5.0 85 GT

Well i plan on staying n/a for now cuz its a daily driver. But i rele wanted to get a aluminum driveshaft but they are 500 bucks. Also with the front sway way bar delete how will that handle on the street? Also i was told from people that the subframe connectors dont rele help our cars? dont know how true it is. But idk how true that is. But my goal is to have a high 12 sec or bottum 13 ssec daily driver n/a.

2010V6Stang

the DS is definitely worth it. Shaftmasters!

dysan

If all you're going for is a high 12 daily driver you won't need much at all. With my car I had lca's, a JLT intake with mail order tune and a short throw shifter and I was running high 13.2's on my stock pirelli's. Just throw on some drag radials and the aluminum drive shaft and you'll be in the mid 12's. Once you want to go below that it becomes about weight savings and other bolt on mods keeping the motor stock.

dysan

Oh...and about the sub-frame connectors....until you're pushing over 500rwhp and really launching hard, they probably aren't worth it. It's when you are REALLY launching hard, that's when they make a difference. Basically when your car has nearly enough power to lift the front, the sub-frame connectors will keep the body & chassis much straighter as well as help keep your launch straighter.

5.0 85 GT

Alright well what lower control arms should i get? I heard the lower bmr boxxed ones the bushings crap out, but i think im gunna get the bmr adjustable upper control arms. also are all the front sway bar deletes the same? I know bmr and granatelli make them. My plans to get into the 12's are o/r x pipe, axle back, c&l intake, flash tune, radials, upper and lower control arms, front sway bar delete, 373's,and if i ever find a driveshaft for a decent price the shaftmasters one is like 700 bucks!

dysan

I just got the J&M Street/Race Extreme Joint Lower Control Arms which have a poly on one end and a sort of spherical on the other. No extra noise when compared to my old BMR tubular poly ones I had before. I also have, not installed yet, the J&M Double Adjustable Upper Control Arm Street which I'm waiting until I get a driveshaft to install. I believe the Steeda one allows you to re-install your front swaybar when you're not at the track, but the others do not so that's something to consider. I don't know which I'm going to do yet but I'm leaning towards a permanent delete since it's no longer my daily driver.

2010V6Stang

Shaftmaster DS is $500 shipped............

Black_Steed

Some awesome numbers ... Is a superflow dyno more like a dyno jet or a mustang dyno?