Colder Plugs for the 05-06 GT
11-28-2005, 02:18 PM
#24
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Sun city, California
Posts: 6
RE: Colder Plugs for the 05-06 GT
Here is the information I have about spark plug heat ranges provided to us by NGK. Hope this isn't too much information and helps a little in understanding heat ranges.
"The distance the heat must travel from the ‘firing end’ to the shell (for heat dissipation through the engine head and air or water jacket) is shorter in a ‘colder’ plug thereby allowing the tip to cool at a faster rate. This design consequently is considered a “cold plugâ€. The other side of the spectrum, the heat travels a longer distance, forcing the ‘firing end’ to retain the temperature for a longer period of time thereby making it a ‘hotter’ plug. Projected-tip ceramic plugs (those that have the ceramic extending beyond the limits of the metal shell) perform a similar alternate function of becoming a ‘hotter’ heat range.
At the opposing end of the spectrum, when the ‘firing end’ temperature exceeds the pre-ignition temperature, the air-fuel mixture (typically 14.7:1) in the combustion chamber will be pre-ignited, resulting in loss of power, overheating, or piston damage from what is commonly known as ‘pinging’. The ideal firing heat range at the ‘firing end’ of the center electrode is a well-maintained 1,325 degrees Fahrenheit (or self-cleaning temperature). If the ‘firing end’ reaches a temperature above the 1,800 degrees Fahrenheit, pre-ignition occurs. If the ‘firing end’ drops below 850 degrees Fahrenheit, this is considered the fouling region and carbon can be built up with unburned fuel. Therefore, the spark plug being selected for a particular application should be in the 850 degree Fahrenheit to 1,800 degree Fahrenheit operating range with the goal to maintain the self-cleaning range of 1,350 degrees Fahrenheit."
cheers
Dustin
"The distance the heat must travel from the ‘firing end’ to the shell (for heat dissipation through the engine head and air or water jacket) is shorter in a ‘colder’ plug thereby allowing the tip to cool at a faster rate. This design consequently is considered a “cold plugâ€. The other side of the spectrum, the heat travels a longer distance, forcing the ‘firing end’ to retain the temperature for a longer period of time thereby making it a ‘hotter’ plug. Projected-tip ceramic plugs (those that have the ceramic extending beyond the limits of the metal shell) perform a similar alternate function of becoming a ‘hotter’ heat range.
At the opposing end of the spectrum, when the ‘firing end’ temperature exceeds the pre-ignition temperature, the air-fuel mixture (typically 14.7:1) in the combustion chamber will be pre-ignited, resulting in loss of power, overheating, or piston damage from what is commonly known as ‘pinging’. The ideal firing heat range at the ‘firing end’ of the center electrode is a well-maintained 1,325 degrees Fahrenheit (or self-cleaning temperature). If the ‘firing end’ reaches a temperature above the 1,800 degrees Fahrenheit, pre-ignition occurs. If the ‘firing end’ drops below 850 degrees Fahrenheit, this is considered the fouling region and carbon can be built up with unburned fuel. Therefore, the spark plug being selected for a particular application should be in the 850 degree Fahrenheit to 1,800 degree Fahrenheit operating range with the goal to maintain the self-cleaning range of 1,350 degrees Fahrenheit."
cheers
Dustin
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