Street stang suspension
I own a 2010 mustang gt track pack. (I liked the feel of the car over the stock gt and got a great price as they made room for the 5.0)
The car is a fair weather driver only and is used primarily as a fun to drive, stop light, back roads, free spirit show car. It has many performance upgrades (N/A 340 rwhp 320 rwtq) as well as appearance mods. It will see a couple weekends at autocross and drag strip action as part of the fun to drive element.
I want to correct the front end push and nose dive, the over-active "jitters" of the rear end on the street and wheel hop on take-off. I want to keep NVH as close to stock as possible and I would also like a level stance without going too much lower. I don't mind a firm ride and I don't mind using grease.
Build list includes:
1. Koni yellow's (Maybe str t to save $)
2. Steeda Sports springs
or steeda boss replacement springs (any info on this one)
3. Watt's link (Probably Fays 2)
4. Maximum motorsports Caster camber plate
???do I need this or can I get within a good setting without them(please recommend settings for aggressive street use)
5. ??? relocation bracket for LCA's
DO I do this or not?
6. I have gt500 LCA's
Do I upgrade or will they fit my needs???
7. UCA's stock ok or upgrade to steeda comp/stree
t
8. I have gt500 sway bars
???do I upgrade and if so is it a big improvement or just a small one...if I upgrade I will go with strano bars?
I have front 255/35-20 NITTO Extreme Performance NT555 Tires and rear285/30-20 NITTO Extreme Performance NT555 Tires on bullit wheels. I know they are heavier....Weight was actually 1 lb heavier front tires and 2 lbs heavier in the rear. Looks awesome though...as I said it is a show and go car
The first 3 items will happen for sure but wanted some input on items 4-8.
I have read and asked many questions and I'll plug Sam Strano for all of his help and will be sure to make my purchases through him when the time comes.
The car is a fair weather driver only and is used primarily as a fun to drive, stop light, back roads, free spirit show car. It has many performance upgrades (N/A 340 rwhp 320 rwtq) as well as appearance mods. It will see a couple weekends at autocross and drag strip action as part of the fun to drive element.
I want to correct the front end push and nose dive, the over-active "jitters" of the rear end on the street and wheel hop on take-off. I want to keep NVH as close to stock as possible and I would also like a level stance without going too much lower. I don't mind a firm ride and I don't mind using grease.
Build list includes:
1. Koni yellow's (Maybe str t to save $)
2. Steeda Sports springs
or steeda boss replacement springs (any info on this one)
3. Watt's link (Probably Fays 2)
4. Maximum motorsports Caster camber plate
???do I need this or can I get within a good setting without them(please recommend settings for aggressive street use)
5. ??? relocation bracket for LCA's
DO I do this or not?
6. I have gt500 LCA's
Do I upgrade or will they fit my needs???
7. UCA's stock ok or upgrade to steeda comp/stree
t
8. I have gt500 sway bars
???do I upgrade and if so is it a big improvement or just a small one...if I upgrade I will go with strano bars?
I have front 255/35-20 NITTO Extreme Performance NT555 Tires and rear285/30-20 NITTO Extreme Performance NT555 Tires on bullit wheels. I know they are heavier....Weight was actually 1 lb heavier front tires and 2 lbs heavier in the rear. Looks awesome though...as I said it is a show and go car

The first 3 items will happen for sure but wanted some input on items 4-8.
I have read and asked many questions and I'll plug Sam Strano for all of his help and will be sure to make my purchases through him when the time comes.
Clarification first. The GT500 LCAs are front or rear? The GT500 sway bars are already on the car? As in they are part of the track pack?
For your occasional auto cross use I would recommend the following:
Koni yellows but you will probably be fine with the streets.
Steeda sports will be less stiff than the boss springs and lower the car a little more. Go with whatever ride type you want, firm vs stiff.
Steeda HD strut mounts with -1.0 to -1.5 negative camber. MM plates if you will get serious in road racing.
Watts link is good choice
No relocation brackets
Keep the GT500 stuff, it's not the best but will keep the NVH stock.
For your occasional auto cross use I would recommend the following:
Koni yellows but you will probably be fine with the streets.
Steeda sports will be less stiff than the boss springs and lower the car a little more. Go with whatever ride type you want, firm vs stiff.
Steeda HD strut mounts with -1.0 to -1.5 negative camber. MM plates if you will get serious in road racing.
Watts link is good choice
No relocation brackets
Keep the GT500 stuff, it's not the best but will keep the NVH stock.
You don't need adjustable LCAs or UCAs as your DS is still a two piece and pinion angle is not an issue with the small drop the springs will provide.
Based on your goals I would do the springs, shocks, strut mounts, watts link as phase 1 and see how you like the ride. If its still missing something, then look at bigger sways, then LCAs, and finally UCA.
Based on your goals I would do the springs, shocks, strut mounts, watts link as phase 1 and see how you like the ride. If its still missing something, then look at bigger sways, then LCAs, and finally UCA.
• Performance front/rear brake pads
• GT500 Sta-Bars and rear lower control arms
• Retuned struts and shocks
• 19-inch Pirelli Summer tires
• 3.73 axle ratio with carbon-fiber clutch plates
• Recalibrated AdvanceTrac®, traction control and anti-lock brakes
GT500 rear LCA's and (If i'm not mistaken) Gt500 front and rear sway bars are part of the 2010 track pack.
I do have a one piece aluminum aftermarket drive shaft on the car. Will that change my LCA UCA needs?
Your recommendation is what I was planning I just wanted some clarification and wasn't sure about the relocation bracket.
Thanks
• GT500 Sta-Bars and rear lower control arms
• Retuned struts and shocks
• 19-inch Pirelli Summer tires
• 3.73 axle ratio with carbon-fiber clutch plates
• Recalibrated AdvanceTrac®, traction control and anti-lock brakes
GT500 rear LCA's and (If i'm not mistaken) Gt500 front and rear sway bars are part of the 2010 track pack.
I do have a one piece aluminum aftermarket drive shaft on the car. Will that change my LCA UCA needs?
Your recommendation is what I was planning I just wanted some clarification and wasn't sure about the relocation bracket.
Thanks
The relocation brackets might help if you were a dedicated drag strip guy.
You would only need either an adj UCA or adj LCAs if your pinion angle is out of spec after having the 1 piece DS and lowering the vehicle. If its fine then you could get away with the stock stuff until they wear out.
Adj LCAs are good for drag guys as you can squeeze bigger tires out back by moving the axle fore and aft.
I've ridden in an 05 with Steeda competition springs, struts, shocks, competition adj UCA (rod ends), competition non adj LCAs (rod ends), rod/poly panhard, panhard brace, A arm brace, strut brace on 255/45/18 rubber. Believe me it was solid and stiff with a little increased NVH and that was a week after install.
I just switched out my poly/rod end LCAs for poly/roto joint as the rod ends rattle after a few years.
I think with these changes , some Dot 4 motul brake fluid and stainless lines, your car will be very formidable road course car.
You would only need either an adj UCA or adj LCAs if your pinion angle is out of spec after having the 1 piece DS and lowering the vehicle. If its fine then you could get away with the stock stuff until they wear out.
Adj LCAs are good for drag guys as you can squeeze bigger tires out back by moving the axle fore and aft.
I've ridden in an 05 with Steeda competition springs, struts, shocks, competition adj UCA (rod ends), competition non adj LCAs (rod ends), rod/poly panhard, panhard brace, A arm brace, strut brace on 255/45/18 rubber. Believe me it was solid and stiff with a little increased NVH and that was a week after install.
I just switched out my poly/rod end LCAs for poly/roto joint as the rod ends rattle after a few years.
I think with these changes , some Dot 4 motul brake fluid and stainless lines, your car will be very formidable road course car.
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