You need a 9/16th bit and a 3/8 NPT Tap. I think VMP and some other places carry the brass sensors. I wouldnt do it this way until you have a tune for it tho as your tune is written for the sensor to be in it normal location and also make sure who ever writes your custom tune knows its been moved there. I used the 1/8 hole for my boost gauge.

 

Here is a pic of mine relocated

 

Have you had problems with it?

 

with the boost gauge No, plastic sensor again a No as I never went that route. I remember when you did that. Its just not for me thats all.

 

my whipple is still in the boxes. my friend owns a NAPA and i work there part time for him as i operate a cnc machine by trade. you guys are alot of help with your knowledge and thanks for pics also. i will do my manifold drilling and tapping on the 2nd runner on the drivers side. i see that alternativeauto.com does there IAT on the back side of the lower manifold. they have pics in there site. i will drill and tap now but will use the whipple IAT until i get dyno tune.

 

I found the picture you were referring to...
http://alternativeauto.com/prodserv/...-3valve46.html

Interesting that they would put the IAT in that location.

 

I saw that article when I did mine. I was worried about damaging the sensor against the firewall when installing the intake so thats why I didnt do mine that way.

 

Hey guys...where can I get gasket cinch? Whipple mentions it in their instructions. Is there an equivalent?

 

Any kind of gasket goop will work. I used high temp rtv on the bottom of the gasket. You just need something to hold it in place when the supercharger goes on.

 

Any auto parts store. It is just used to "hold" the gasket while you install the blower. Technically you don't need anything.

I ditched two of the blower to manifold bolts and installed studs and bolts in the manifold to easily guide the blower onto the manifold to ensure the gasket did not move during placement. The studs make placement of the blower on the manifold a one person job. If you have any spare exhaust manifold studs those work fine. Just be sure to place them in the two most forward holds so they do not interfere with the blower when installed. Do not use any sealer such as ATF since it is not needed and will be a big pain in the *** if and when you remove the blower.

Trace out the gasket before you install it so you can cut one out of bulk gasket material in the future. Whipple wants $20 just for the gasket and then add another $20 for shipping. Whipple customer service sucks IME!

Be sure to relocate the IAT to after the blower as others mentioned. You will not be able to get it properly tuned without relocating it. The IAT temp is critical to any timing being pulled and you do not want the IAT measured at the MAF because it will be way off. Some tuners will not even tune the car if the IAT is not relocated. I initially used the plastic, but pulled he blower to drill and tap for the proper IAT later. Your blower is going to run hotter because it is polished so this is necessary IMHO.

You may want to look into a 8 rib system and upgraded tensioner. You will be there eventually.

Get another belt and keep it in your car together with a breaker bar for on the roadside changes. NAPA and Rockauto have these at a much lower price than Whipple, and you won't have to wait a month for Whipple to finally ship it too you.

Trade in one of those gauges for the AeroForce Interceptor. You will be able to monitor much more at a much lower price and with way fewer gauges!

Start saving for a forged short block. Again, you'll be there eventually.

Good luck and enjoy!