Shifting problem - still.
07-08-2012, 12:16 PM
#21
4th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Temple, TX
Posts: 1,277
Yeah. At one point i did not have this problem after the CHE brace and poly motor mount install. It came back all on its own. I think seeing its only over 5500 rpm, ill just run it for now. Thinking about just getting a built one for $1300. To rebuild my 3650, parts for syncros and other stuff along with TSB upgrades come to like $800 - $900. The built one comes with all that.
I found an advertisement in the July edition of 5.0 Mustang & Super Fords for Hurst Driveline Conversions too.
Don
07-08-2012, 01:08 PM
#22
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 2,634
Update
Well, I just went and gave it a good run and did some testing. If I roll out and then just put it to the floor as soon as I go past 6,000 RPM and shift it will grind. Now, if I keep it under 6k its fine.
Next test, doing a hole shot breaking the tires loose (about a 4k hole shot and first gear is about 15 ft long burn out) and shift to second, no grind at all. I tried this a few times with the same results.
Now, if it was the syncros I don't think I would be able to do a hole shot like that. Its starting to make me think the Hurst (shifter) could be the issue, just a feeling.
Next test, doing a hole shot breaking the tires loose (about a 4k hole shot and first gear is about 15 ft long burn out) and shift to second, no grind at all. I tried this a few times with the same results.
Now, if it was the syncros I don't think I would be able to do a hole shot like that. Its starting to make me think the Hurst (shifter) could be the issue, just a feeling.
07-08-2012, 01:12 PM
#23
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
Is the grinding at full throttle only or just any throttle over 5500?
I have the torque limiters and hurst shifter, but stock motor mounts. I tried the poly mounts, but didn't like all the engine feel. I've never had a grinding problem, but I rarely shift that high from 1st to 2nd, unless I have my drag radials on the car.
Every time I hear about shifting problems at high rpms, i automatically think about the clutch. Not sure why it would only be the 1-2 and not the 2-3.
You weren't power shifting at the track were you?
I have the torque limiters and hurst shifter, but stock motor mounts. I tried the poly mounts, but didn't like all the engine feel. I've never had a grinding problem, but I rarely shift that high from 1st to 2nd, unless I have my drag radials on the car.
Every time I hear about shifting problems at high rpms, i automatically think about the clutch. Not sure why it would only be the 1-2 and not the 2-3.
You weren't power shifting at the track were you?
07-08-2012, 01:15 PM
#24
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Gainesville, FL
Posts: 11,278
Well, I just went and gave it a good run and did some testing. If I roll out and then just put it to the floor as soon as I go past 6,000 RPM and shift it will grind. Now, if I keep it under 6k its fine.
Next test, doing a hole shot breaking the tires loose (about a 4k hole shot and first gear is about 15 ft long burn out) and shift to second, no grind at all. I tried this a few times with the same results.
Now, if it was the syncros I don't think I would be able to do a hole shot like that. Its starting to make me think the Hurst (shifter) could be the issue, just a feeling.
Next test, doing a hole shot breaking the tires loose (about a 4k hole shot and first gear is about 15 ft long burn out) and shift to second, no grind at all. I tried this a few times with the same results.
Now, if it was the syncros I don't think I would be able to do a hole shot like that. Its starting to make me think the Hurst (shifter) could be the issue, just a feeling.
07-08-2012, 01:18 PM
#25
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 2,634
Is the grinding at full throttle only or just any throttle over 5500?
I have the torque limiters and hurst shifter, but stock motor mounts. I tried the poly mounts, but didn't like all the engine feel. I've never had a grinding problem, but I rarely shift that high from 1st to 2nd, unless I have my drag radials on the car.
Every time I hear about shifting problems at high rpms, i automatically think about the clutch. Not sure why it would only be the 1-2 and not the 2-3.
You weren't power shifting at the track were you?
I have the torque limiters and hurst shifter, but stock motor mounts. I tried the poly mounts, but didn't like all the engine feel. I've never had a grinding problem, but I rarely shift that high from 1st to 2nd, unless I have my drag radials on the car.
Every time I hear about shifting problems at high rpms, i automatically think about the clutch. Not sure why it would only be the 1-2 and not the 2-3.
You weren't power shifting at the track were you?
07-08-2012, 01:23 PM
#26
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 2,634
07-08-2012, 07:56 PM
#27
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: IL
Posts: 718
I wouldn't say there's a guarantee that it would fix it, but if you're interested in the MGW and are considering it in the first place, it's worth a shot. My question is, though, what Hurst shifter do you have? Is it the the comp billet plus or whatever? I think that's the beefiest one right? If you have a lower model and still like the hurst, you could give that one a shot.
I know my MGW was very beefy and just felt like quality when you held it in your hands. Not trying to sell you completely on the MGW, but it is a great shifter
Edit: You know, your test does make sense. If it was the synchros, it would grind according to rpms, not load on the drivetrain (causing misalignment), at least I think. Maybe? I think I see your thought process for this and completely agree.
I know my MGW was very beefy and just felt like quality when you held it in your hands. Not trying to sell you completely on the MGW, but it is a great shifter
Edit: You know, your test does make sense. If it was the synchros, it would grind according to rpms, not load on the drivetrain (causing misalignment), at least I think. Maybe? I think I see your thought process for this and completely agree.
Last edited by HxCGuitars; 07-08-2012 at 08:02 PM.
07-08-2012, 09:25 PM
#28
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 2,634
I wouldn't say there's a guarantee that it would fix it, but if you're interested in the MGW and are considering it in the first place, it's worth a shot. My question is, though, what Hurst shifter do you have? Is it the the comp billet plus or whatever? I think that's the beefiest one right? If you have a lower model and still like the hurst, you could give that one a shot.
I know my MGW was very beefy and just felt like quality when you held it in your hands. Not trying to sell you completely on the MGW, but it is a great shifter
Edit: You know, your test does make sense. If it was the synchros, it would grind according to rpms, not load on the drivetrain (causing misalignment), at least I think. Maybe? I think I see your thought process for this and completely agree.
I know my MGW was very beefy and just felt like quality when you held it in your hands. Not trying to sell you completely on the MGW, but it is a great shifter
Edit: You know, your test does make sense. If it was the synchros, it would grind according to rpms, not load on the drivetrain (causing misalignment), at least I think. Maybe? I think I see your thought process for this and completely agree.
I have an extra shifter handle, the one that came with it from hurst is 6 1/4 long. The extra one I have is 8 1/4 long (30 % increase in through). I installed the long one and I'm going to run another test tomorrow. If the handle is longer in theory it will slow down my shift at the level at the tranny. I just want to see if timing / speed will affect it. If the long shift handle eliminates it or makes is reasonably better, that will tell me allot. That would mean a short throw shifter is not a good idea for our 3650's. And we should stick with the OEM geometry but built like the MGW.
Last edited by slickman; 07-08-2012 at 09:28 PM.
07-08-2012, 09:38 PM
#29
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: SC
Posts: 2,634
I wouldn't say there's a guarantee that it would fix it, but if you're interested in the MGW and are considering it in the first place, it's worth a shot. My question is, though, what Hurst shifter do you have? Is it the the comp billet plus or whatever? I think that's the beefiest one right? If you have a lower model and still like the hurst, you could give that one a shot.
I know my MGW was very beefy and just felt like quality when you held it in your hands. Not trying to sell you completely on the MGW, but it is a great shifter
Edit: You know, your test does make sense. If it was the synchros, it would grind according to rpms, not load on the drivetrain (causing misalignment), at least I think. Maybe? I think I see your thought process for this and completely agree.
I know my MGW was very beefy and just felt like quality when you held it in your hands. Not trying to sell you completely on the MGW, but it is a great shifter
Edit: You know, your test does make sense. If it was the synchros, it would grind according to rpms, not load on the drivetrain (causing misalignment), at least I think. Maybe? I think I see your thought process for this and completely agree.
07-09-2012, 01:14 AM
#30
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: IL
Posts: 718
I have an extra shifter handle, the one that came with it from hurst is 6 1/4 long. The extra one I have is 8 1/4 long (30 % increase in through). I installed the long one and I'm going to run another test tomorrow. If the handle is longer in theory it will slow down my shift at the level at the tranny. I just want to see if timing / speed will affect it. If the long shift handle eliminates it or makes is reasonably better, that will tell me allot. That would mean a short throw shifter is not a good idea for our 3650's. And we should stick with the OEM geometry but built like the MGW.
That would definitely be a good test. Something I like about the MGW is the ability to adjust the length of the throw. I have mine about as high as it can go for leverage, and I'm at about 4 turns out. Probably 25-30% shorter than stock. The difference for you, as you mentioned, is your power level, so I'm not sure how much the MGW would help.
Interested to see the results of your next test.