SCCAGT

Since its already been mentioned that flushes are just out with the old and in with the new, no reason to beat that horse. Also, this flush process mentioned in first post is nothing new. Been done this way for years.

About the 5R55s, there is a little adapter that can be purchased that replaces the drain plug to fill it. It sticks up inside the pan a specific distance to help signify when full. However, in my experience its wrong to the inexperienced DIY'er. My first time with it was a complete cluster F. To keep it simple for those new to it, If you drain the pan and take it out to clean it, and replace the filter, you can put that adapter in there and add 6qts. When you swap out the adapter for the actual drain plug, you WILL make a bit of a mess. But you will be done and can move on with life knowing the correct amount is in there.

Tony Iocca

No matter how long this method has been done it is my first attempt to preform a transmission fluid "Transfusion" draining old fluid while replacing it with new fluid "Simultaneously" through the cooling lines while engine is running at idle transmission in neutral with hot fluid.
After talking with another guy that has done it, he said the transmission will pump the hot fluid out at a very fast rate. I am going to attach a valve on the fanged line so I can control the rate that it is pumped out and shut it off when I need it to stop.
So to recap this procedure; Lift vehicle on jack stands keeping it as level as possible

Step 1) Detach the hot/supply line from the transmission cooler and attach a valve to the line with a clear hose that will drain into a graduated 5 gallon bucket.

Step 2) Fill 8 quarts of Motorcraft Mercon V in a pressurized (35psi) container that I will attach to the transmission cooler fitting that also has a valve to control or stop flow.

Step 3) Start the engine, transmission in neutral. Open both the line valve and fill container valve at the same time. Watching the flow, coming out and the flow going in with the graduated reference marks on both the pressurized 2 gallon container and the 5 gallon bucket. (Have two small clean jars ready to keep a sample of fluid from the start to end to compare with fluid straight out of the bottle...)

Step 4) Adjust the flow that is going the fastest to match the other with the valve. Give the pressurized container more pressure with the air compressor through the air fitting I put on it, keeping it around 35psi.

Step 5) Close the valve that is draining into 5 gallon bucket when fluid reaches the 2 gallon mark. (Take a sample of fluid to compare color and clarity with clean fluid fresh out of the bottle).

Step 6) Empty entire 2 gallons of new clean fluid into the system, close valve and keep engine running to get new fluid up to operating temperature.

Step 7) Add one more "Quart" to the two gallon pressurized container at 35psi.

Step 8) Remove hex bolt stand tube plug to drain excess fluid into empty container taking note of how much drains out. Open valve of pressurized container adding one (1) quart into system to top off fluid level with the fill tube. again taking note of how much drains out of the stand tube of the drain plug. IF a quart comes out then it was near the correct level at the start of the process. If little or none comes out add more fluid until some spills out of the stand tube.

Step 9) Replace hex bolt stand tube plug and tighten back into drain plug. Shut off engine remove both the valve and pressurized container from cooling line and cooler.

Step 10) Attach cooling line back to the cooler. Start engine and check for leaks. Test drive and recheck fluid level while looking for leaks...

Step 11) Properly dispose of old fluid at a recycle center.
Well "Done" that simple... saving over $100 and knowing what the fluid looks like from start to finish so you will know at the next flush...