fireshallfear

I have a 94 Mustang GT and it's giving me grey hair. I had some problems with it a few weeks ago, it was a dog, unresponsive and slow. I pulled out my MAF and throttle body and cleaned both with non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Let them sit out for a hour or so, reinstalled them but didn't attempt to start the car until 48 hours later. After sitting, for those two days, the car wouldn't start but cranked away. I checked all my connections, everything is plugged in and ready to go. I pulled the MAF and throttle body again, check to ensure everything was intact and I didn't break points, bend connections or what have you. Reinstalled everything, started up with no hesitation with the MAF unplugged. Its was late at night so I shut the car off after about 30 seconds of running. I plugged in the MAF to see if it would start again, and it fired right up, I shut it down to keep from having the fuzz at my house. The next morning, it wouldn't start again. I checked the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and found the coil to have a crack in the plastic around the connection, replaced it with a stock ford coil, still won't start. I replaced the fuel filter thinking it could be gunked up and it hasn't been changed in awhile. No change, won't start. I have good spark, good fuel pressure, everything is hooked up right. I do not have cats or o2 sensors (I'm working on finding the connections in the harness, previous owner was a retard) but that wouldn't keep it from running at all, it just sucked down. Today my code scanner came in, I hurried to my garage hoping for a good number of codes to come up so I had a few different avenues to choose from, all I get is 334 - EGR closed valve high voltage. Upon inspection, the EGR valve has been plugged with a penny by the previous owner.

Any ideas? I was thinking PIP or TIF module but got no codes pertaining to either. Whats next?

scottybaccus

Have you confirmed the injectors are delivering fuel?

Have you confirmed the cams are turning?

Check spark under load. A free gap of .045 is easy. That same gap under compression is hard. You know that little tool with an adjustable point that you make the spark jump across the gap?

Check all the ground straps. I had one left loose at the firewall that made all the difference.

sleeper5oh

^^^^^^6Very true check all the little things that are easy to over look

fireshallfear

Plug gaps are good, and I have power through the coil and all. I haven't checked the injectors but since I have fuel pressure to the rail, I highly doubt all the injectors became plugged at the same time. I crawled under the car today and checked the grounds, the only one I found easily was the one from the block to the frame near the oil filter. I couldn't get it off without breaking the strap all together as it just spun on top while i turned the bolt. Ill give it another shot this Friday. Where are all the grounds located on my 94 GT? If someone could tell me I'd appreciate it as it would save me a lot of hunting.

rtintwo

I am assuming that you have checked the spark at the plug and it is good, so this means the ignition system is functional and the timing chain is good. You say your fuel pressure is good and that you have verified this with a gauge. If you havent then you need to do these things.

Start with putting a timing light on it and make sure you are set to 10*. Next sence you were messing with the top side of the engine check all of your harness connections for tightness. If youaccidentally jerked a connector loose you might not be providing power to your injectors or something else. To check for a bad ground hook a multimeter lead to the neg of the battery, touch the other lead to the engine and to the body if you get any VDC reading then you have a bad ground somewhere. Also sence the previous owner monkey ****ed your car with pennies and no O2 sensors consider a carb conversion.

scottybaccus

So you aren't checking the spark with a load test. And you aren't checking injector flow.

You are taking too much for granted. Your injector drivers could have failed and they may not be firing at all. Your ingnition can fire a plug out of the motor, but under the 9 atmospheres of pressure that you have at the firing point in a compression stroke, it might not have the energy to bridge the gap. Get it? You have to check a few more things and do it the right way. If you don't understand, say so and we can explain.

fireshallfear

I appreciate the responses and will try to get around to doing what I can tomorrow. I apologize for my time online being scarce, I work 24 hour shifts and don't have a ton of time to get online. I have not checked the plugs under pressure, I don't have the ability to do so yet. As for the fuel system, I have checked everything but need to acquire a gauge to ensure its up to par. I just don't understand how one minute it was running and the next it wouldn't start. As for the O2 sensor issue, I was told by the previous owner that they had removed the O2 sensors but when I crawled under the other day, I realized that they were there and plugged in, explains why there were no codes. I've about come to wits end with this car though, I'm thinking if I don't get this figured out soon with minimal financial contributions, I'm going to tear it apart this winter and go for a full rebuild. Thinking it could benefit me to just start fresh.

projectresto83

Just because you have fuel pressure at the rail doesn't mean your injectors are gonna fire. They use signals from other sensors to know when and how long to open.


Read this and redo all the checks.

http://sbftech.com/index.php?PHPSESS...17&topic=588.0

fireshallfear

Again thanks for all the help, today was an odd day. I hooked up the battery charger to the car and ran to O'Reilly. I grabbed a can of starter fluid and came home. Sprayed it into the throttle body and it started right up, ran for a few minutes until I shut it down. I ran codes on it, KOEO shows the same EGR valve problem, obviously. KOER codes showed 314 and 311, Therm air errors, again obviously because the smog pump is disconnected. It started up and ran to running temp and maintained a strong idle. I haven't had any starting problems with it since. I'm not sure what is going on, Monday I'm going to pull all the plugs, a buddy of mine says his 96 Cobra fouls plugs in extremely hot weather, and we've been above 95 for two plus weeks. I'm still going to follow up with everyone's advice on here, I appreciate all the help and hope I can contribute as much as you all have!

projectresto83

Your buddies issures have nothing to do with your car. 2 completely different setups. So basically sometimes it starts, sometimes it doesn't right?

I didn't catch it before but for the codes for TFI and PIP, I have never seen anyone talk about codes for them. They just quit working lol.

I would go thru the engine bay, disconnect and reconnect everything.
check this too
http://fordfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=85