Lot of rust stains on the driveway. Where do you suppose they came from? +1 on what racin66coupe said.

 

That car needs everything. I would look at it for sure but my money is on the carpet and the paint are what are holding it together.

Even if it is a good shell....it will need:

New suspension
Possible Motor overall
bumpers and trim
interior
Paint

You could prob get away with 5-6 invested to make a decent car IMO...but that is only if the car isn't rotted away like I suspect you will find it is.

 

Car looks good to me from the photos. I have a similar problem; I have a chance to buy original shelby hood; it's missing the chrome inserts; I can get it for $850. Think that's a good buy?

RB

 

rb, i wouldnt, but that just my .02

 

I agree my .02 would be to pass on a shelby hood unless your restoring a shelby ..if you like hte look I know i do I would buy a reproduction or a fiberglass.
but thats just me

 

Sector,
I paid $3000 for my car 15yrs ago and it was in good physical shape...since then proabably have dumped $12k in it for paint, interior, suspension, brakes, new engine, etc. If I went to sell it I think I could probably get anywhere between $8K and $10K. I think reallistically that you are better off spending more initially and enjoying the car from the get go...especially with a coupe. From the pics it looks alright...I would suggest no more than $2500. What are those things sticking out under the car by the exhaust tips (grabber bars?)?

 

look like some long shackles to jack up the rear..

 

I'd offer him 2,000 if your happy with it after the inspection and see if he takes. Don't think I'd go much higher then 2,500 as others have said. Take into account anything you find through out the inspection as well.

The first thing I'd ask the guy is how much rust he has found on the car. Appearances are deceiving! It looks good from just standing next to it but things can (and will be) surprising once you really get into it if you bought it. Doing it over I now know a lot more about what to look for and where. A few important things to do and and check that most people wouldn't look for I've listed below.

Things to take with you include a gallon of water, strong flashlight, light magnet, jack and jack stands, body hammer, [ol][*]Take a light magnet and slide it over the entire car.. roof, hood, trunk, fenders, doors, sill, quarters, wheel flares, front/rear valances, etc. Use a magnet from the bottom of a shower curtain as they are small, very light and don't you don't have to worry about the paint as much. It needs paint anyways :-)[*]Look up under the dash and look for light showing through the cowl. Grab the fresh air intake on the drivers side and shake it. If the cowl is rusted this will likely to loose. Ask him if he minds pouring a gallon in water down the cowl vents.[*]While under the dash using a flashlight, look and feel all the wires. They should be soft and easily bendable. Check all the wiring through out the car for this and take note of all the worn and spliced areas.[*]Ask if he minds you jacking the car a bit to look at and inspect the bottom. From below using the body hammer beat the floors especially under where your feet would be, along the sheet metal on both sides of the rail extensions, up along the toe boards and along the lower tunnel area to the rear seat. Also beat on the frame rails and extensions both along the bottom and sides. You really want to inspect the rails where the sections join and overlap as water can sit between these sections and eat in.[*]Looking in the wheel wells and feeling around the flare and lip for any repair work rust and swelling around the edges. Inspect the wheel housing with the body hammer and the shock towers both from here and in the engine bay. Check the firewall especially the lower areas and down around the steering column for rust. Might be surface which is ok .. your looking for rough, pitted areas. Don't forget the trunk and down deep in the inner fenders and around the inner wheel housing. Shine a light from outside and look down from inside the trunk.[*]Check everywhere... If you miss 1 place you can count on that spot being bad later on. [/ol]The body hammer you want to hit the metal using the pointy end, not the flat. On the sheet metal a few strong taps just using wrist power will tell and show you if the floors are bad. On the rails and extensions you can hit harder of course. The hammer doesn't cause any damage to a car in this shape unless it finds bad spots.. or you take a really good hard swing! This is such an easy thing to do and will definitely make you sick if/when it goes through.. as well as the seller. If you buy the car and plan on painting it use the hammer over the body panels if your not going to media blast it as this will help you find rusted out and any bondo filled areas the magnet may have missed.

Body work can make or brake a project so its best to know at least some of the issues before hand. If the seller doesn't allow you to check the car with the water or the hammer then he may be hiding something and either walk away or take that into your offer. Floors, toe boards, torque boxes, inner fender panels and body panels really don't cost that much for these however if your paying someone else to do the work it can cost a lot in labor costs. If the rails are bad its a lot or work and man hours to correct.

As for the mechanics most people with a general set of tools and a Shop Manual can fix a lot of things on these older cars. If it starts, runs and sounds ok then your at least ahead of the game there. If you know anyone who works on cars ask if they would go along and assist in the inspection with you.

Remember.. don't be shy! You're the one who will pay for it in the end. and paying for it and paying for it..


I just bought a 67 for the wife beginning of this year. We really just started working on it which includes a complete tear down. I got the car for next to nothing so all the surprises I've found haven't bothered me too much. If I had paid 2 to 3 grand for it I'd be quite annoyed right now. If the car has been undercoated don't assume its all good as it simply hides the issues. This is why, on a car that needs refreshing/restored I'd take that body hammer with me.

Checkout my thread which shows some of the hidden things we have run across. I knew the floors were bad already but areas like the top of the inner fenders and joint sections of the rails were surprises. If I'd had the hammer I'd have know about the rails which if I were paying someone labor would cost quite a bit. I'll be adding to the thread tonight showing the frame rail extensions that I found were bad just the other day.


Good luck and hope the car is what your looking for, in decent shape and you get it for a fair (or better) price.


Edit: lol sorry for the long post.. I didn't think I went on that much



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WOW
All I can say is you guys rock. Thanks for the advice and I have taken it to heart.
My friend has a 1973 mustang coupe we have been working on ...we are in the process of doing the front drum to disc swap. Literally in the middle the car is jacked up we have sand blasted the passenger side only and realized he needed a arms and ball joins so we are replacing that.
After this post and reading your comments I was talkign about making a more detailed look at this car he said ...you know I want to sell my car. I want to drive a mustang and I don't mind tinkering but I don't want to re-manufacture. Its just too much work for the amount of time I have.
He has decided to get his swap done and back together and sell and I have decided to wait till I can afford a more or less done car.
I will be back asking eventually asking what you think of another car I have found but hopefully the car will be more reasonable for the time I have to work on it and I will be more informed when I ask online!
Thanks so much guys!
BTW I didnt even go look at the car based of the rust stains which I missed on viewing the pictures!!!!!
Sudden realization is a funny thing sometimes. And Wow Adrenolin your post should be stickied!