Hi all,

I bought a Weiand Action+ 8124 intake and a Edelbrock Performer 600 w/elect. choke. I had a few questions about the install of both of them.

1. Do I need a spacer and if I do which type?
2. Which gaskets would you all recommend?
3. With the electric choke, do I just need to wire it to a ign. switch line?
4. Do I have to remove the distributor to install the intake?
5. Any other pointers?

Thanks!

 

One tip-when installing the manifold,cut the heads off the old bolts and screw them in lightly-this will help guide the new manifold down into the correct postion.

 

I'd strongly recommend a spacer. Phenolic would be the best material, but any spacer is better than none as far as heat insulation goes. A 4 hole spacer would probably work fine for you, performance wise.

Fel-Pro makes a performance intake gasket, called a 'print-o-seal,' that I like to use. It's a little softer than the standard gaskets and has printed seals around the ports, so it tends to work better with the low-torque aluminum manifolds. Ditch the cork front and rear seals, though, and use a bead of RTV in their place. Sixtysix's stud tip is a good one, and will make sure you don't smear the RTV all over the place while dropping the gasket in.

I'd recommend pulling power for the electric choke from the heater hot wire in the engine bay. The stator terminal on the alternator that many people may tell you to use does not provide a full 12V and won't operate the choke properly.

You don't have to remove the distributor, but it makes life a crapload easier. Just go ahead and pop it out and save yourself the frustration later.

 

Thanks for the pointers guys. As far the valve covers, do those come off as well?

Thanks

 

Nope, you can leave those on

 

Spend a couple of dollars and upgrade the primary spring to pink and step up one level on the metering rod (smaller dia), the primary jet remains the same. I have the same set up and that one change made a difference in power. The secondaries should be fine. Yes on the phenolic spacer. You'll probably need a mr. gasket screw-down adapter to bolt upthe stock accell linkage. No, you don't HAVE to pull the dizzy, but it's a good idea, makes the job easier.Use a marker, notethe dizzy pickup on the housing, and block, and make sure this all lines back up at the same spot when re-install the dizzy. Good luck